Hi
After lurking around this site for some time now it is time for my first post. 🙂
I have a pair of Martin Logan CLS Mk 1 with brand new ML panels but looking at the Electronics box attached to the panels have made me wonder if you could upgrade, improve or replace it? After all it is almost 30 years old. 😉
The ML's are used in a system with active XO and room correction so maybe I could start by bypassing the filter in the interface box? Have anyone tried that?
Thanks in advance 🙂
Jasgaard
After lurking around this site for some time now it is time for my first post. 🙂
I have a pair of Martin Logan CLS Mk 1 with brand new ML panels but looking at the Electronics box attached to the panels have made me wonder if you could upgrade, improve or replace it? After all it is almost 30 years old. 😉
The ML's are used in a system with active XO and room correction so maybe I could start by bypassing the filter in the interface box? Have anyone tried that?
Thanks in advance 🙂
Jasgaard
Hello,
Without a schematic it is hard to guess.
i would start with replacing the power supply capacitors.
Be sure to get the same capacitance and voltage.
Without a schematic it is hard to guess.
i would start with replacing the power supply capacitors.
Be sure to get the same capacitance and voltage.
Hi,
Of cause you are right about the schematic.🙂
I found a threat over at Martin Logan Owners mentioning tweaking the CLS Mk 1.
CLS I Tweaks
Here I also found the following attached schematics.
Hope it helps. 😀
Of cause you are right about the schematic.🙂
I found a threat over at Martin Logan Owners mentioning tweaking the CLS Mk 1.
CLS I Tweaks
Here I also found the following attached schematics.
Hope it helps. 😀
Attachments
Last edited:
Post a photo of your supply.
Replace old electrolytic caps.
And replace the cheap film caps with your personal favorite film caps, and report back.
Replace old electrolytic caps.
And replace the cheap film caps with your personal favorite film caps, and report back.
I would just discard that 30-year old board and use an active crossover with a newer version ML-102 or 103 high voltage power supply board.
1. Replace electrolytic and tantalum caps with new ones.
2. Replace 10 and 5 uf caps with better- your choice for space and cost.
I found MIT PPFXS with RTX 0.1 Uf bypasses a good choice.
3. Replace the power resistors with Ohmite or Caddock TO 247 Power film type. - means mounting heat sinks on the board - drilling holes to put heat sink pins through - solder the heat sink pins once installed that holds them fairly well.
4. Replace the HV step -up diodes with fast /soft recovery type - ML did this in their later upper end ESLs.
5. The orange step up caps - I replaced with Wima MKP film and foil -
6 . Choose which mods suit your budget and skills - give the mods 50 hours to burn-in - enjoy an adult beverage
2. Replace 10 and 5 uf caps with better- your choice for space and cost.
I found MIT PPFXS with RTX 0.1 Uf bypasses a good choice.
3. Replace the power resistors with Ohmite or Caddock TO 247 Power film type. - means mounting heat sinks on the board - drilling holes to put heat sink pins through - solder the heat sink pins once installed that holds them fairly well.
4. Replace the HV step -up diodes with fast /soft recovery type - ML did this in their later upper end ESLs.
5. The orange step up caps - I replaced with Wima MKP film and foil -
6 . Choose which mods suit your budget and skills - give the mods 50 hours to burn-in - enjoy an adult beverage
Hi
Thanks for your inputs.
@ X83 Could you please explain what you mean by "ML-102 or 103 high voltage power supply board". Is that something you can get from Martin Logan or...? 😉
@ ticknpop You give a detailed recommendation. Is this something you have tried yourself? 🙂
Thanks for your inputs.
@ X83 Could you please explain what you mean by "ML-102 or 103 high voltage power supply board". Is that something you can get from Martin Logan or...? 😉
@ ticknpop You give a detailed recommendation. Is this something you have tried yourself? 🙂
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