Hi.
I have done the searches (including the net) and cannot find anyone with a service manual for a CD73.
Does anyone have a service manual.
Thank's.
I have done the searches (including the net) and cannot find anyone with a service manual for a CD73.
Does anyone have a service manual.
Thank's.
Many thank's for the link, you are a saint.
I tried all over the place to get info, but all I got was a few bits/extracts, mainly in German or similar.Cheers.
I managed to get most of the info off the site, and have sorted most of the problems.
One thing I can't do though, is trace why the output is sooo quiet, and a little distorted.
If anyone has had a similar problem, or maybe just has an idea of where I should look, then I would welcome the advice.
Would the TDA1540d chips be at fault?
It would be a shame to relegate this machine to the "spares or repair" bin.
Cheers.
I tried all over the place to get info, but all I got was a few bits/extracts, mainly in German or similar.Cheers.
I managed to get most of the info off the site, and have sorted most of the problems.
One thing I can't do though, is trace why the output is sooo quiet, and a little distorted.
If anyone has had a similar problem, or maybe just has an idea of where I should look, then I would welcome the advice.
Would the TDA1540d chips be at fault?
It would be a shame to relegate this machine to the "spares or repair" bin.
Cheers.
On health! You have the remarkable device! TDA1540D Is fine and best chip!!!
All its problems is a bad contact and old condensers with which it is necessary to replace.
And if you use tube SE the amplifier, make remove filter SAA7030(NOS) and reclocked with a good food, I/U on the resistor and the transformer instead of all analogue (opamp) I/V buffered.
Good luck!
Excuse, for my bad English.😕
All its problems is a bad contact and old condensers with which it is necessary to replace.
And if you use tube SE the amplifier, make remove filter SAA7030(NOS) and reclocked with a good food, I/U on the resistor and the transformer instead of all analogue (opamp) I/V buffered.
Good luck!
Excuse, for my bad English.😕
Thank's again.
I'll re-seat the chips and check the circuit for faulty components like you suggest.
I don't think I have the skills to re-clock the unit, and to be honest, all I want to do is actually get it to work.
It was in bits when I got it, and I paid over £100.00 GBP for it, which has not gone down well with my fiancee, so just to get it to play would be enough to justify the price.
Anyway, I'll have a go and let you know.
Cheers for now.
I'll re-seat the chips and check the circuit for faulty components like you suggest.
I don't think I have the skills to re-clock the unit, and to be honest, all I want to do is actually get it to work.
It was in bits when I got it, and I paid over £100.00 GBP for it, which has not gone down well with my fiancee, so just to get it to play would be enough to justify the price.
Anyway, I'll have a go and let you know.
Cheers for now.
Hi again.
I've just had a look at the decoder board and it has completely different chips to the ones listed in the circiut diagram.
As my knowledge of electronics is limited to descreet devices, I have no idea what to make of it all.
I have attached a picture of the board, and here is a list of the chips that are on the diagram;
SAA7030
TDA1540 (X2)
SAA7010
SAA7020
MAB8410 (I think this one is correct)
SAA7000
Apart from the MAB chip, the others appear to be completely different.
😕
Any idea's?
I've just had a look at the decoder board and it has completely different chips to the ones listed in the circiut diagram.
As my knowledge of electronics is limited to descreet devices, I have no idea what to make of it all.
I have attached a picture of the board, and here is a list of the chips that are on the diagram;
SAA7030
TDA1540 (X2)
SAA7010
SAA7020
MAB8410 (I think this one is correct)
SAA7000
Apart from the MAB chip, the others appear to be completely different.
😕
Any idea's?
Attachments
Greetings!
It is normal, Philips 300\303 and Marantz 73 have two variants of execution, with the decoder from Philips with a set 7000/7010/7020 and executed on a separate payment with chips Sony, (the second variant more musical). Probably you have a scheme 2 variants? I can send you on e-mail service a manual of 1 variant.
To begin with it is necessary to check up pressure on a food payment.
Good luck!
Hi.
I would very much appreciate your variant 1 manual.
My email is;
mschwilson@aol.com
Thank's also for the power diagram, It's much easier to understand than off my manual.
I checked most of the components on this board already, but I'll do it again just to make sure.
As a matter of interest, none of the components are marked on the board, would the manual include a layout of the circuits? not to worry if not.
Thank's again for your help.
Cheers for now.
I would very much appreciate your variant 1 manual.
My email is;
mschwilson@aol.com
Thank's also for the power diagram, It's much easier to understand than off my manual.
I checked most of the components on this board already, but I'll do it again just to make sure.
As a matter of interest, none of the components are marked on the board, would the manual include a layout of the circuits? not to worry if not.
Thank's again for your help.
Cheers for now.
As far as the quiet output is concerned, is it one channel or both??
It could be that the muting relays are not working on "PLAY".
Andy
.
It could be that the muting relays are not working on "PLAY".
Andy
.
Hi Andy.
The actual noise I get, through the phono input of an amp (just for test purposes) is a sort of intermittent "fizzing", it is on both channels.
It is only present when play is pressed, as in, when the unit actually playing.
I did some moree checks on the supply and the mains into the power board are correct as are the outputs to the servo board, except the out put from the black lead (from the centre mountedwhich reads approx -15.36v instead of -18v. I'm not sure if this would cause such problems.
Cheers.
The actual noise I get, through the phono input of an amp (just for test purposes) is a sort of intermittent "fizzing", it is on both channels.
It is only present when play is pressed, as in, when the unit actually playing.
I did some moree checks on the supply and the mains into the power board are correct as are the outputs to the servo board, except the out put from the black lead (from the centre mountedwhich reads approx -15.36v instead of -18v. I'm not sure if this would cause such problems.
Cheers.
Try tapping the output muting relays.
You can also short the audio in and out (on the relay) with a wire
You can also short the audio in and out (on the relay) with a wire
You are right, it is not at the bottom, but all the same, it is desirable the condenser (с113) 100Х50V, to replace on good, for reception-17 (-18V).
And the reason is simple - I think, it is bad contact. It is necessary to disassemble all sockets and re-seat chips, probably it is required to solder a decoder field accurately anew.
I hope, what that is clear with my English?
Hi.I had a look but there do not appear to be any relays in this machine.
I did try tapping in various places but nothing changed.
Thank's to the advice that I got to change the cap (100uf 50v) I have now got 18v, so all power supplies are now pretty much sorted.
As an added benefit, the laser tracks better and the output is now steady, but still muted.
The fizzing is gone too.
I'm hoping now that the "mute" fault will be simple, but I think I am at the limit of my capabilities, just not sure what to do now.
Many thank's for the help though from all of you guys.
Cheers.
Hi Again.
I had another look round the boards and found the relays. I had not seen this type before (or at least had not had to deal with them), and thought they were just inductors.
Anyway, I did what Poynton suggested, and have now got sound, brill!!!
Just going to see what works them, but just wanted to know that if I can,t sort it out, would it be ok to use the player in "shorted out" mode.
Many thank's.
I had another look round the boards and found the relays. I had not seen this type before (or at least had not had to deal with them), and thought they were just inductors.
Anyway, I did what Poynton suggested, and have now got sound, brill!!!
Just going to see what works them, but just wanted to know that if I can,t sort it out, would it be ok to use the player in "shorted out" mode.
Many thank's.
Yes, it is OK to use it without output muting. You may/will get some noise between tracks or in pause. It is one of the tweeks on many CDPs.(the ones using transistor muting anyway)
It will keep you going until you can get the manual and really sort it out. The reed relays are not too hard to get - EBAY.
Andy
.
It will keep you going until you can get the manual and really sort it out. The reed relays are not too hard to get - EBAY.
Andy
.
Hi.
Just thought I would let you know that the relays are now working. It seems like whoever had the player before me (as I said earlier I got the unit in bits) may have damged the winding, as I found a broken lead on the armature. I simply re-soldered it back, and now everything is ok there.
Thank you very much for the advice, I don't think I would have looked at those components, cheers.
Anyway, everything is ok now, but still got to service the laser mech as it seems to be "juddering", and is having problems tracking past the fifth track.
Sounds stunning though.
Just thought I would let you know that the relays are now working. It seems like whoever had the player before me (as I said earlier I got the unit in bits) may have damged the winding, as I found a broken lead on the armature. I simply re-soldered it back, and now everything is ok there.
Thank you very much for the advice, I don't think I would have looked at those components, cheers.
Anyway, everything is ok now, but still got to service the laser mech as it seems to be "juddering", and is having problems tracking past the fifth track.
Sounds stunning though.
You need various supplements of other models in additional. E. g. Philips CD300, CD200 and CD-303 for example.
Please contact follow repair company:
Classic Audio Service
Mr. Heinrich Deppermann
ebay member name: ch5oh
Am Kuhlenfeld 44
47199 Duisburg
Germany phone ++49 - 2841 - 8808761
E-Mail: heinz.deppermann@cas-germany.com
Please note, there are two different DIF devices inside: one from Sony and one from Philips.
pics of the SONY DIF version (SAA7011 - cx7933-cx7934-cx7935-saa7030-tda1540) you will find there:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/40682-cx7933-cx7934-cx7935-saa7030-tda1540.html
here are an URL of CD73
Marantz CD-73
and Philips CD300
Philips CD 300, mint
and Philips CD200
Philips CD200 cdplayer - Marantzphilips.nl
As regards the low output, try tapping on the output muting relays.
As to the tracking issue, try replacing all the electrolytic caps on the CD mechanism board (on the CD transport). There's one on there that is very often bad.
Keep in mind that some caps will test ok on a bridge type tester but not work properly in circuit. You need to test them for excessive ESR (Effective Series Resistance). With the age of the unit and the low cost of parts it is often much faster to replace all of them.
The early Philips based CD players (which this is) are notorious for bad solder joints (or as you probably would say, "dry solder joints") on the jumpers that connect the ground planes on one side of the circuit boards to the other.
As to the tracking issue, try replacing all the electrolytic caps on the CD mechanism board (on the CD transport). There's one on there that is very often bad.
Keep in mind that some caps will test ok on a bridge type tester but not work properly in circuit. You need to test them for excessive ESR (Effective Series Resistance). With the age of the unit and the low cost of parts it is often much faster to replace all of them.
The early Philips based CD players (which this is) are notorious for bad solder joints (or as you probably would say, "dry solder joints") on the jumpers that connect the ground planes on one side of the circuit boards to the other.
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