This new CD player looks like a good contender: it has a linear power supply with a nicely sized transformer for the analog part, good jitter rejection according to Stereophile's test [1], an AKM 4392 DAC [2], and what appears to be discrete lowpass filtering and output drivers. The layout is clean, with attention paid to grounding and heatsinking. The unit sounds pretty darned fine on its own, so I'm kinda curious as to how much could be gained with a bit of tweaking.
[1] Marantz CD5004 CD player Marantz CD5004 CD player Measurements | Stereophile.com
[2] AK4392|Site of Asahi KASEI MICRODEVICES
[1] Marantz CD5004 CD player Marantz CD5004 CD player Measurements | Stereophile.com
[2] AK4392|Site of Asahi KASEI MICRODEVICES
I used to know what POOGE stood for .
Anyway, My old CJ DF-2 quit reading disc, I am trying to replace the laser, but until I do. I bought a Marantz CD5004 to replace it. Wow, it really sucks , compared to the CJ anyway. So I have been trying to improve it. First I damped the inner chassis and cd transport, a little blob of blu tack on the crystals , asphalt roofing sealant in all the big chassis areas. That seemed to improve the focus and clarity a bit.
Then the biggest improvement was to bypass the Electrolytic output coupling caps, much better resolution and detail. But still I find the bass to be light. I am comtemplating replacing a few Powers supply caps and the caps around the DAC, bypassed as well ( some already are. And try the Shottkey diodes too.
I may try disconnecting the Muting Transistors.
I have never modded a CD player before, so I am moving cautiously. Lots of tube experience though and I can solder and desolder .
I find it interesting that a 20 year old Cd player can blow this new Marantz away, so I am sure it is down to the Analogue output section.
Still trying to locate a schematic for the CD5004 , although I suspect it is a glorified Cd 5003.
I think I could live with this player if I can get some real Bass out of it. Well, more meat all around.
Anyway, My old CJ DF-2 quit reading disc, I am trying to replace the laser, but until I do. I bought a Marantz CD5004 to replace it. Wow, it really sucks , compared to the CJ anyway. So I have been trying to improve it. First I damped the inner chassis and cd transport, a little blob of blu tack on the crystals , asphalt roofing sealant in all the big chassis areas. That seemed to improve the focus and clarity a bit.
Then the biggest improvement was to bypass the Electrolytic output coupling caps, much better resolution and detail. But still I find the bass to be light. I am comtemplating replacing a few Powers supply caps and the caps around the DAC, bypassed as well ( some already are. And try the Shottkey diodes too.
I may try disconnecting the Muting Transistors.
I have never modded a CD player before, so I am moving cautiously. Lots of tube experience though and I can solder and desolder .
I find it interesting that a 20 year old Cd player can blow this new Marantz away, so I am sure it is down to the Analogue output section.
Still trying to locate a schematic for the CD5004 , although I suspect it is a glorified Cd 5003.
I think I could live with this player if I can get some real Bass out of it. Well, more meat all around.
Well I made some upgrades and I can report it has transformed the Marantz cd5004 into a real player I can live with.
I previously applied asphalt backed roof flashing from Home Depot to the chassis and Blue tack to the transport and Crystal.
I have installed Nichicon FW 4700uf caps before and after the Audio board regulators, also installed Shotkey Diodes. to the power supply board. Next I replaced all the electrolytic s on the audio board and around the DAC with Same value Elna Silmic II. I had previously bypassed the Elna output coupling caps with a wire.
Wow, after the first few notes of Kenny Burrells guitar I knew it was going to be good. The bass was all there, much deeper , more articulate , defined and bigger. Drums have a great dynamic, Everything seems very balanced . The sound stage is superb. Cymbals are silky yet very extended notes seem to decay very naturally. All the instrument sound very real and natural, all in all I highly recommend the upgrades. I bought the caps from Handmade electronics. I did not bypass anything except to keep all the original bypass caps as they are.
I will need to hot melt glue the super increased value of the Nichicons 4700uf after the regulators as I damaged a trace or two and they are too large to fit firmly to the board. I bent them over sideways a bit to fit.
Now to let it break in , But it sounds great with out even being broken in.
I found it is pretty much the same layout as the earlier Marantz Cd5003 and used that manual to operate from.
I previously applied asphalt backed roof flashing from Home Depot to the chassis and Blue tack to the transport and Crystal.
I have installed Nichicon FW 4700uf caps before and after the Audio board regulators, also installed Shotkey Diodes. to the power supply board. Next I replaced all the electrolytic s on the audio board and around the DAC with Same value Elna Silmic II. I had previously bypassed the Elna output coupling caps with a wire.
Wow, after the first few notes of Kenny Burrells guitar I knew it was going to be good. The bass was all there, much deeper , more articulate , defined and bigger. Drums have a great dynamic, Everything seems very balanced . The sound stage is superb. Cymbals are silky yet very extended notes seem to decay very naturally. All the instrument sound very real and natural, all in all I highly recommend the upgrades. I bought the caps from Handmade electronics. I did not bypass anything except to keep all the original bypass caps as they are.
I will need to hot melt glue the super increased value of the Nichicons 4700uf after the regulators as I damaged a trace or two and they are too large to fit firmly to the board. I bent them over sideways a bit to fit.
Now to let it break in , But it sounds great with out even being broken in.
I found it is pretty much the same layout as the earlier Marantz Cd5003 and used that manual to operate from.
I have both of Marantz CD 5003 and CD 5004, they are share the same power supply and servo/digital board, i'm using 5003's service book.
Both of them I using as cd transport, my tweaks only for digital section in psu board and servo/digital board.
Change the diodes to BY329x, Nichicon FW 4700uF, LM7808 and LM7805, 2200uF Rubycon low esr, disabled 2 cap bypass.
The 5003 still has original parts in servo/digital board, The 5004 replace almost all original electrolytic cap to be Oscon.
mellower sound, wider soundstage, will compare later fully tweaked 5004 and half tweaked 5003 🙂
Both of them I using as cd transport, my tweaks only for digital section in psu board and servo/digital board.
Change the diodes to BY329x, Nichicon FW 4700uF, LM7808 and LM7805, 2200uF Rubycon low esr, disabled 2 cap bypass.
The 5003 still has original parts in servo/digital board, The 5004 replace almost all original electrolytic cap to be Oscon.
mellower sound, wider soundstage, will compare later fully tweaked 5004 and half tweaked 5003 🙂
Hello,
I have a different Marantz (8004) model. Biggest difference I got from quite a few changes was changing out the analog output caps with higher voltage rating, bi-polar capacitors. Was quite surprised at the size of the change. FWIW. (used 220 uf, 63 volt, SU Bi Polar Panasonic caps)
Regards,
Greg
I have a different Marantz (8004) model. Biggest difference I got from quite a few changes was changing out the analog output caps with higher voltage rating, bi-polar capacitors. Was quite surprised at the size of the change. FWIW. (used 220 uf, 63 volt, SU Bi Polar Panasonic caps)
Regards,
Greg