I am wondering if there are some blueprints or a schematic of some kind or something
for making a simple mono car audio subwoofer amplifier
like at least a 25-50 watt amplifier to power some cheap subwoofers
something that's similar to a car subwoofer amplifier or a monoblock amp
I want to have very low noise level on the output to my subwoofers and speakers so that it doesn't sound staticy when im not playing any music.
I also want to be able to build it really easily and quickly with less than 50 parts
and since bigger parts are easier to put together.
is there something like this that's easy to build when i have the right parts to build it?
something that can fit on a breadboard from radio shack?
I've searched online but there's nothing that's close to what I want to make.
for making a simple mono car audio subwoofer amplifier
like at least a 25-50 watt amplifier to power some cheap subwoofers
something that's similar to a car subwoofer amplifier or a monoblock amp
I want to have very low noise level on the output to my subwoofers and speakers so that it doesn't sound staticy when im not playing any music.
I also want to be able to build it really easily and quickly with less than 50 parts
and since bigger parts are easier to put together.
is there something like this that's easy to build when i have the right parts to build it?
something that can fit on a breadboard from radio shack?
I've searched online but there's nothing that's close to what I want to make.
well.... there are lots of other sections that have a bunch of threads on this site, not just home amps. i believe there is a good one mentioned in the "favorite threads" sticky. search the site some. then again, someone here may just post up a simple schematic. "50 parts" might be a little hard for good sq. then again, if you are going to run it from 12v, then you could probably get away without a power supply. i have a bunch of little kicker amps that do 100w@1ohm, 50@2, and 25@4. no power supply, and run at 11.5v regulated rails, iirc.
also I am wanting to power a 4ohm subwoofer with this amplifier so you know what kind of speakers i am powering so you know what type of amplifier that I would want to build
With your 50-parts requirement, I'd think a chip amp is the way to go. Have a look around for bridged outputs that can handle that 4 ohm load running at 12 volts. That will provide the power you desire. And it will easily fit the approx. 4"x6" proto board that RS sells (or did last time I was there). The heatsink will be the largest expense.
The most power you can get into 4 ohms from a 12V source (14V with engine running) is about 50 watts peak (16-22 wrms depending on distortion). That's what a typical car radio has per channel. If that's enough for you, check the Chip Amps forum for ideas.
Beyond that you would need to build a DC-DC converter power supply to boost the voltage up, and the level of complexity rises considerably.
Beyond that you would need to build a DC-DC converter power supply to boost the voltage up, and the level of complexity rises considerably.
i have a bunch of transistors that I could use so I was hoping I could make a good amplifier that uses transistors and a bunch of resistors and capacitors. some more simple stuff like that. and without any LM chips because I don't have any that I could use.
also I want my amplifier to make lots of bass and lots of powerful low frequencies to power a large subwoofer
and with minimal distortion if possible.
and how would I build a dc to dc converter power supply? is there a simple schematic or something I could check out?
also I want my amplifier to make lots of bass and lots of powerful low frequencies to power a large subwoofer
and with minimal distortion if possible.
and how would I build a dc to dc converter power supply? is there a simple schematic or something I could check out?
It's virtually impossible to build a simple, high power, low distortion discrete power amplifier from random parts. Each stage has to be designed to drive the next stage. The output of the amplifier has to be monitored and fed back into the input stage to limit distortion. All of this has to be designed to be stable (resistant to oscillation) regardless of the load on the amp.
There are simple DC-DC converters but if you want to build an amplifier, you should use a salvage amplifier's power supply to drive the amplifier that you build. After you have your amplifier working properly, then you can move onto building a power supply.
Page 109 of my car audio site and the sticky at the top of the main page for this car audio forum both have information about building power supplies. The ESP site (google) also has power supply information as well as circuit boards to build amplifiers.
There are simple DC-DC converters but if you want to build an amplifier, you should use a salvage amplifier's power supply to drive the amplifier that you build. After you have your amplifier working properly, then you can move onto building a power supply.
Page 109 of my car audio site and the sticky at the top of the main page for this car audio forum both have information about building power supplies. The ESP site (google) also has power supply information as well as circuit boards to build amplifiers.
Take a look at the Class-D chips from Texas Instruments -- you can, in fact, squeeze blood from a turnip.
okay let's say I made my amplifier... but when I try to remove the DC going to the speakers (from a simple transistor amplifier)
every time I try to use a capacitor it just makes the sound extremely quiet and no output at all... how would I work around this?
every time I try to use a capacitor it just makes the sound extremely quiet and no output at all... how would I work around this?
When you use a split power supply (positive and negative supply voltage, instead of only positive voltage (12v and ground)), the amp is biased to 0v and there is no reason to have DC on the output unless the amplifier is defective or improperly designed.
If the amp is biased to 1/2 of the supply voltage (biased to 6v), you have to use a capacitor. The problem could be that the cap has insufficient capacitance. It could also be that the amplifier's output impedance is too high. If the output is distorted, it could be that the AA batteries simply don't have sufficient current to drive the amplifier and speaker.
my power supply is not biased because I don't know how to do that part. i'm using a single transistor. and the sound quality is obscenely good (darn good quality) and has a really natural sound to it. it is mono only though.
a considerable amount of DC still flows to my subwoofer.. I want to eliminate the DC so only the sound goes through my speaker and no DC flows through my speaker.
there is no distortion whatsoever at all levels.
the only thing that has a problem is the DC flowing to my speaker. if I place a capacitor in series to my speaker to get rid of the DC there is no advantage because then no sound at all gets to my speaker for some reason.. and I checked.. the capacitor is around 4,000uf's biggest one I could find.
I'm clueless on how to bias the power supply voltage...
a considerable amount of DC still flows to my subwoofer.. I want to eliminate the DC so only the sound goes through my speaker and no DC flows through my speaker.
there is no distortion whatsoever at all levels.
the only thing that has a problem is the DC flowing to my speaker. if I place a capacitor in series to my speaker to get rid of the DC there is no advantage because then no sound at all gets to my speaker for some reason.. and I checked.. the capacitor is around 4,000uf's biggest one I could find.
I'm clueless on how to bias the power supply voltage...
There is no way to build a single transistor amplifier without significant distortion.
A single transistor would be a class A amp. It would have to be biased to 1/2 of the supply voltage. This is done in the design process. The selection of components (resistors) is critical. The amp won't be stable because the bias will change with temperature.
You will have to use a more complex design.
A single transistor would be a class A amp. It would have to be biased to 1/2 of the supply voltage. This is done in the design process. The selection of components (resistors) is critical. The amp won't be stable because the bias will change with temperature.
You will have to use a more complex design.
well then I guess I've done the impossible just now? All I've got is one single resistor to bias the input and that's it...
and a quite large heatsink (its almost bigger than my hand)
it also sounds perfectly acceptable at lower voltages
(3 volts is the bare minimum that it sounds okay with)
but it works flawlessly at 12volts except for the DC flowing to the speaker which I can't seem to fix whatsoever.. I'll take some pictures soon to show you what i'm doing.
and a quite large heatsink (its almost bigger than my hand)
it also sounds perfectly acceptable at lower voltages
(3 volts is the bare minimum that it sounds okay with)
but it works flawlessly at 12volts except for the DC flowing to the speaker which I can't seem to fix whatsoever.. I'll take some pictures soon to show you what i'm doing.
get yourself a little 4:1 transformer. you should be able to run 2, 3, or 4 transistors from the 12v and drive them through another driver transistor. build it for 1ohm stable. then run the output through the transformer, and you can get close to 100w, for plenty of headroom. what transistors are you using?
I'm not sure and I don't know anything about transformers.
I'm just using some transistors that I've scavanged from an old TV motherboard that are quite large
but they still work great
how would I find a transformer that takes DC? I thought they only work with AC?
I'm just using some transistors that I've scavanged from an old TV motherboard that are quite large
but they still work great
how would I find a transformer that takes DC? I thought they only work with AC?
That is the point. If you use a reansformer, it can still pass some dc, but will only transfer ac to the speaker. Using a 4:1 will let you get to 50w with plenty of headroom
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