Hi, I am looking for a good chip to build next, I have only ever made the LM1875 so far and are currently not so satisfied with it. Looking for an upgrade. Was looking for the TDA7293 but I am going to hear what you guys gonna say first. Price wise both the TDA7293 and LM3886 cost around the same here, i don't know if the 3886 is fake or not. Since the 7293 itself is pretty old, I want to see if you guys have any suggestions about it or which chip should I use rather than that 7293.
And for subwoofer, what do you guys recommend? I am trying to drive the JBL GT5-12D. Please, don't recommend me tube amps. I'm not so good at handling those stuff. I have bad past with high-voltage stuff.
I am also looking for a good preamp (using BurrBrown's if possible, I like how they sound). Thanks in advance!
PS: Budget is not a problem, I'm sure. What I am trying to make is a 5.1 setup! If budget isn't my problem, then why I don't buy something ready? Well, I think since it is called diyAudio, shouldn't you do it yourself? 😛
And for subwoofer, what do you guys recommend? I am trying to drive the JBL GT5-12D. Please, don't recommend me tube amps. I'm not so good at handling those stuff. I have bad past with high-voltage stuff.
I am also looking for a good preamp (using BurrBrown's if possible, I like how they sound). Thanks in advance!
PS: Budget is not a problem, I'm sure. What I am trying to make is a 5.1 setup! If budget isn't my problem, then why I don't buy something ready? Well, I think since it is called diyAudio, shouldn't you do it yourself? 😛
LM1875 is a good chip. What schematic did you build and from what pars?
Maybe not the chip itself is the problem.
Can you give a picture of your lm1875 system?
Maybe not the chip itself is the problem.
Can you give a picture of your lm1875 system?
There really isn't much difference in sound quality between the chip you don't like and the others you mentioned. So what about LM1875 don't you like? You might be able to improve it with a better PSU.
I'll try if I could get a picture of it later. It is sealed in the box.
I used this
It is a single LM1875. I need something a bit more powerful than that since I'll be creating a whole new system with new loudspeaker and stuff. I won't touch the LM1875. It is a pretty rock solid build for my PC.
Oops. My bad. I am currently using a single LM1875 for each loudspeaker (2 in total for stereo) so therefore it isn't so loud. Whenever I cranked it up it will just start to distort. It is not that I disliked LM1875, it was my first setup and I loved it now as much as I was. I don't know if my LM1875 can surpass either the TDA7293 or LM3886 when they are set in bridge mode. My LM1875 currently uses 6 x 4700uF 50V caps. It is indeed a generic caps.
I just sound-treated a room and I think I want to try to put something better in there (since I'd love to use the 1875 on my PC because it is so schmall 😀). In the end I will still need to build something new and are looking for you guys advice and feedback 🙂
Whoa. That's cool. I'll be sure to check em out!
Attachments
This one is also from your Country and I bet it will not distort when pushed:
DIY Audio Elektronika: Kit Apex H900 TEF Power Amplifier Untuk Lapangan
DIYAudio approved, of course 😉
DIY Audio Elektronika: Kit Apex H900 TEF Power Amplifier Untuk Lapangan
DIYAudio approved, of course 😉
I built a 4 channel 3886 power amp and am very happy with it. Details are on my hobby website: ephaseaudio.com
The LM3886 is a nice amp. With a good PCB it's a very beginner friendly project. Should you later decide to build a better amp, you will likely be able to reuse the power supply from the LM3886 project, which is nice too.
Tom
Tom
So would it be fair to say you're primarily interested in getting more power (=louder) and fairly content with the quality level? If so then given that sound is perceived logarithmically, you'll likely want at least 5X the power of your LM1875 in the new amp to really notice its louder.
LM3886 (or TDA7293) in simple bridged mode would deliver the power you need but will only work well if your speaker's 8ohms. Anything lower impedance and you'll run into current limiting.
I know this is not a "chip amp," but I would recommend it as a simple DIY starter-level amp:
Improved MX50 SE Power Amplifier Assembled board Dual 2.0 channel 100W+100W HIFI
It is the LJM MX50 SE 100W amp. The PCB (each channel) is very small and the mounting of the 2 transistors to the heat sink is very simple, so in terms of construction it is no more complicated than building a LM3886 amp. Moreover, both channels assembled and shipped would cost less than $22 dollars (to the US, not sure about Japan). More importantly, it sounds pretty good. I know that because I built one after playing around with multiple versions of LM3886 amps. I have not since gone back to the LM3886 amps. Maybe someday I would, as the audio hobby seems to be a journey going in circles, but now I am enjoying the sound of an LME49810 amp, which could also be called a chip amp since it is based on the LME49810 chip (+ output transistors).
Cheers,
Kurt
Improved MX50 SE Power Amplifier Assembled board Dual 2.0 channel 100W+100W HIFI
It is the LJM MX50 SE 100W amp. The PCB (each channel) is very small and the mounting of the 2 transistors to the heat sink is very simple, so in terms of construction it is no more complicated than building a LM3886 amp. Moreover, both channels assembled and shipped would cost less than $22 dollars (to the US, not sure about Japan). More importantly, it sounds pretty good. I know that because I built one after playing around with multiple versions of LM3886 amps. I have not since gone back to the LM3886 amps. Maybe someday I would, as the audio hobby seems to be a journey going in circles, but now I am enjoying the sound of an LME49810 amp, which could also be called a chip amp since it is based on the LME49810 chip (+ output transistors).
Cheers,
Kurt
Last edited:
This one is also from your Country and I bet it will not distort when pushed:
DIY Audio Elektronika: Kit Apex H900 TEF Power Amplifier Untuk Lapangan
DIYAudio approved, of course 😉
Why did I never noticed that 😕
I build my 1875 back then when I was still in Indonesia, it was like 2 or 3 years ago when I was still studying about Electrical Engineering. With a few modifications I made it barely alive here in Japan.
I'll see what I could do. Thanks for the advice anyway! Your advice and feedbacks are always welcome 🙂
Whoa, I'll be sure to check them out!
Do you see any benefits from using either the 3886 or 7293? Thanks for the advice anyway! 😀
Yes, that is the most correct answer. I am interested in gaining more power than the quality. Any chip amps you would recommend that have at least 5X the power of a 1875?
I do usually use 8 ohms loudspeaker, but sure, advice and feedbacks are always welcome. I might even try a 4 or 2 ohms loudspeaker.
Hi, I'm quite unsure if I could get my hands on it. But since you've had a lot of experience with 3886, which version would you recommend? And I'd love to hear more about the LME49810! 😀
This is the last version of LM3886 amps I was using before veering into building "solid-state" amps.
Assembled 68W+68W HiFi LM3886TF Stereo Amplifier AMP Board 50W*2 / 38W*2
The only mods I did include soldering some X7R ceramic capacitors between the power pins of the chip for "decoupling," and soldering the 22k feedback resistor directly on the output and In- pins (a la Gainclone).
The LME49180 amp kit I am using now is this one (need 2 for stereo):
LME49810 Mono Channel Audio Amplifier amp Board 100W 8R Finished | eBay
I picked this one, instead of those high-power (300W, 400W) kits because of its simplicity. It is supposed to be only good for 100W, but that is way more than what I need, as I am using the amp to drive clones of Klipschorns. The amp boards are basically stock, and I am only playing with different signal input coupling capacitors. I am actually quite satisfied with the sound I got from the LME49810 + horns combination.
By the way, all the LM3886 amps I have played with and the LME49810 amp are dead-quiet, even without the shielding of a metal box. I could press my ear into the mid-range horn and not hear any noise.
Cheers,
Kurt
Assembled 68W+68W HiFi LM3886TF Stereo Amplifier AMP Board 50W*2 / 38W*2
The only mods I did include soldering some X7R ceramic capacitors between the power pins of the chip for "decoupling," and soldering the 22k feedback resistor directly on the output and In- pins (a la Gainclone).
The LME49180 amp kit I am using now is this one (need 2 for stereo):
LME49810 Mono Channel Audio Amplifier amp Board 100W 8R Finished | eBay
I picked this one, instead of those high-power (300W, 400W) kits because of its simplicity. It is supposed to be only good for 100W, but that is way more than what I need, as I am using the amp to drive clones of Klipschorns. The amp boards are basically stock, and I am only playing with different signal input coupling capacitors. I am actually quite satisfied with the sound I got from the LME49810 + horns combination.
By the way, all the LM3886 amps I have played with and the LME49810 amp are dead-quiet, even without the shielding of a metal box. I could press my ear into the mid-range horn and not hear any noise.
Cheers,
Kurt
I don't know a single chip amp which reaches 5X the power (say at least 100W) that a 1875 does. You'd need to bridge a pair of LM3886 (good for over 100W into 8ohms) or parallel/bridge some TDA7293s to reach the target power level.
With a bridged pair of chipamps only working well into 8ohms or above you can drive lower impedances through use of an output transformer. A custom wound toroidal would be my suggestion, I have had a couple wound for my own projects - you can specify the transformer secondary to have 4 and 2ohm taps to provide for any future speakers that might take your fancy. For a 100W or so chip amp, a 30-50VA toroid delivers the goods.
i would say tda 729x with the master slave options is more likely to deliver what you need.
however, a class D pre-built amp would be a better bet.
its hard to build an amplifier with many paralell chips and bridged, and class D is verry capable to deliver power. a huge lot of it.
however, a class D pre-built amp would be a better bet.
its hard to build an amplifier with many paralell chips and bridged, and class D is verry capable to deliver power. a huge lot of it.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.