Hi - it's been a while between posts 🙂
Years ago I bought a Klipsh Quintet 5.1 speaker system. The 10" sub died fairly soon after purchase. I was never really happy with the sound of it so did not bother trying to get it fixed and it has been sitting in my garage ever since.
Finally got around to doing something with it. Pulled the panel off the back and saw some black components. Replacing them was well beyond my capability, and I never really liked the sound, so I bought this TPA3118 board.
Here is how it looks now:
Ignore the green board on the right and all the speaker terminals - they are part of the old amp. and I've left them in to fill the holes.
I just plugged it in, told my receiver to calibrate and started using it. I can't believe how good it sounds! Unless there is some obvious bass effect I don't even know I have a sub - but if I turn it off I can really hear the lack of bass. When there are obvious bass effects in the sound track it shakes the (wooden) floor and rattles the bottles in the nearby cabinet 🙂 It just blends in so well. Never did that with the original amp. Could also be the room I guess - I've moved house since I bought it and never tried it with the original amp. in this room.
Now to the important part of my post - the question 🙂 I know that what I have now is not safe. Both the Klipsh and the Sony integrated amp. I took the transformer from were double insulated. This is clearly not.
My plan to improve safety is to replace the IEC socket with a 3 pin one and connect the earth from this to both the transformer chassis and the amp. panel. I'll also move the rectifier from inside the case to the amp. panel (can't imagine why I didn't put it on the panel to start with..). Does this sound like a reasonable plan?
Years ago I bought a Klipsh Quintet 5.1 speaker system. The 10" sub died fairly soon after purchase. I was never really happy with the sound of it so did not bother trying to get it fixed and it has been sitting in my garage ever since.
Finally got around to doing something with it. Pulled the panel off the back and saw some black components. Replacing them was well beyond my capability, and I never really liked the sound, so I bought this TPA3118 board.
Here is how it looks now:

Ignore the green board on the right and all the speaker terminals - they are part of the old amp. and I've left them in to fill the holes.
I just plugged it in, told my receiver to calibrate and started using it. I can't believe how good it sounds! Unless there is some obvious bass effect I don't even know I have a sub - but if I turn it off I can really hear the lack of bass. When there are obvious bass effects in the sound track it shakes the (wooden) floor and rattles the bottles in the nearby cabinet 🙂 It just blends in so well. Never did that with the original amp. Could also be the room I guess - I've moved house since I bought it and never tried it with the original amp. in this room.
Now to the important part of my post - the question 🙂 I know that what I have now is not safe. Both the Klipsh and the Sony integrated amp. I took the transformer from were double insulated. This is clearly not.
My plan to improve safety is to replace the IEC socket with a 3 pin one and connect the earth from this to both the transformer chassis and the amp. panel. I'll also move the rectifier from inside the case to the amp. panel (can't imagine why I didn't put it on the panel to start with..). Does this sound like a reasonable plan?
The rectifier board look very simple and don't see any capacitor on it.
Sent from my HT3 using Tapatalk
Sent from my HT3 using Tapatalk
The rectifier board look very simple and don't see any capacitor on it.
Sent from my HT3 using Tapatalk
Correct - it's not even a "board" as such. Just a bridge rectifier module.
What's the unloaded voltage coming out of the rectifier?
I don't recall, but it is well within the stated range required by the amp. module (8-24V)
The unloaded AC voltage of the transformer winding I used is 16.9V.
I don't recall, but it is well within the stated range required by the amp. module (8-24V)
The unloaded AC voltage of the transformer winding I used is 16.9V.
The DC voltage should be close to 24V then. That's right at the limit of the board, so you got lucky there.
You need some larger smoothing capacitors after the rectifier. You're relying entirely on the small caps on the amp board; not good. Get two 3,300uF 35V caps and add them in parallel to the rectifier output.
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