I've acquired a pair of KEF Chorales
http://hifiloudspeakers.info/Anatomy/SpeakerSystems/Chorale/Chorale.html
from a Thrift store a few years ago. Well, I was quite astonished in the beginning. But after a few days/years, I started to hear the problems that it had. It doesn't sound as good as the Tangent that my dad had even though they have very similar drivers (same tweeter, slightely larger woofer).
Anyway, here's a list of problems:
1) lacks midrange
2) the bass shakes the ground but my ears can't really hear much of it.
3) the high end not as smooth or warmer as my Tangent or Spendor LS3/5A
Lastly here's the original crossover:
http://hifiloudspeakers.info/Anatomy/Crossovers/DN13SP1015Chorale/Gallery/index.htm
Could anyone find ways to improve the speaker?
Any help would be appreciated
http://hifiloudspeakers.info/Anatomy/SpeakerSystems/Chorale/Chorale.html
from a Thrift store a few years ago. Well, I was quite astonished in the beginning. But after a few days/years, I started to hear the problems that it had. It doesn't sound as good as the Tangent that my dad had even though they have very similar drivers (same tweeter, slightely larger woofer).
Anyway, here's a list of problems:
1) lacks midrange
2) the bass shakes the ground but my ears can't really hear much of it.
3) the high end not as smooth or warmer as my Tangent or Spendor LS3/5A
Lastly here's the original crossover:
http://hifiloudspeakers.info/Anatomy/Crossovers/DN13SP1015Chorale/Gallery/index.htm
Could anyone find ways to improve the speaker?
Any help would be appreciated
Hi,
Other than updating the capacitors there is not much you can do
that is cost effective. Ideally the notch circuit (2mH 6.4 R DCR -
16uF) should be individually tuned to the particular driver, but
this is difficult without measuring equipment.
FWIW the individual drivers would probably sell on e-bay for more
than the complete speakers as KEF drivers are much sought after.
A drastic redesign would put the bass driver in a transmission line
and add a midrange driver, but using modern units would be better.
TBH I've never found the B200 that good. My second-hand Musical
Fidelity MC2's (go for a song if you can find them) are far better than
any of the speakers you mention in nearly every area. Its much
better to start off with something very good and tweak.
e.g classics are the original Rogers studio 1's and LS7's
http://vancouver.craigslist.org/ele/443239457.html
Detune the port somewhat and a pair of decent stands .....
🙂/sreten.
Other than updating the capacitors there is not much you can do
that is cost effective. Ideally the notch circuit (2mH 6.4 R DCR -
16uF) should be individually tuned to the particular driver, but
this is difficult without measuring equipment.
FWIW the individual drivers would probably sell on e-bay for more
than the complete speakers as KEF drivers are much sought after.
A drastic redesign would put the bass driver in a transmission line
and add a midrange driver, but using modern units would be better.
TBH I've never found the B200 that good. My second-hand Musical
Fidelity MC2's (go for a song if you can find them) are far better than
any of the speakers you mention in nearly every area. Its much
better to start off with something very good and tweak.
e.g classics are the original Rogers studio 1's and LS7's
http://vancouver.craigslist.org/ele/443239457.html
Detune the port somewhat and a pair of decent stands .....
🙂/sreten.
P10 - Q for you (you must keep that first place in posting 
)
I just acquired set of Chorales , with drivers in decent condition
except my madness for all things speakers , I don't know why
anyway - one of T27 is having sorta loose motor ensemble from magnet plate ; what sort of glue (?!) was used to secure it to magnet plate ?
I know the drill - keeping an eye on alignment , with sine gene ...
TIA
)I just acquired set of Chorales , with drivers in decent condition
except my madness for all things speakers , I don't know why
anyway - one of T27 is having sorta loose motor ensemble from magnet plate ; what sort of glue (?!) was used to secure it to magnet plate ?
I know the drill - keeping an eye on alignment , with sine gene ...
TIA
Tangent TM3 & TM1 both use the same drivers as the Chorle, so you must have gotten RS2, or RS4 from your dad (similar but with Audax midbass)-- one of my favorite speakers of the day, and John Greenbank had a significant impact on my loudspeaker design knowledge. Note that the grill cloth material on the Tangents could now be worth more than everything else.
Cross-over and more elegantly built boxes gave the TM1s & TMs a distinct edge over the KEFs with equivalent drivers.
If you want to keep them, rebuild the box & XO... but as Sreten says it actuallymakes more sense to flip the drivers (people in love with their vintage boxes (ie IMF TLS50/Linn Sara) have pushed the resale value of these drivers well beyond their sonic worth) and use the proceeds to start from scratch with modern drivers. Somewhere in between would be to flip the T27 and use the B200s in a FAST.
Picture & circuit of TM3 XO (AFAIK the same as TM1) attached.
dave
Cross-over and more elegantly built boxes gave the TM1s & TMs a distinct edge over the KEFs with equivalent drivers.
If you want to keep them, rebuild the box & XO... but as Sreten says it actuallymakes more sense to flip the drivers (people in love with their vintage boxes (ie IMF TLS50/Linn Sara) have pushed the resale value of these drivers well beyond their sonic worth) and use the proceeds to start from scratch with modern drivers. Somewhere in between would be to flip the T27 and use the B200s in a FAST.
Picture & circuit of TM3 XO (AFAIK the same as TM1) attached.
dave
Attachments
The diaphram VC has come loose from the bezel or the bezel has come loose from the magnet?
If the later time to toss (i have some T27 here with dimpled domes, cost you postage (& coffee when i come visit (if)). If the former then it was a sticky glue that still allowed them to be removed and a new butterfly assembly mounted for a "recone". I'd use Zig 2-way glue as a 1st try (both surfaces let it sit 5 min before assembly). It is really hard to misalign them as they are keyed.
dave
tnx P. , for both the offer and glue tip
it's luckily entire bezel (if by that you're meaning on black plastic ring ,carrying 'fragm & VC) , so little glue will sort the things
coffee , beer and Stone BBQ - any time
while we are at it , how you (partially) compare xover you just posted , with this , also originating from your pile of files :
it's luckily entire bezel (if by that you're meaning on black plastic ring ,carrying 'fragm & VC) , so little glue will sort the things
coffee , beer and Stone BBQ - any time
while we are at it , how you (partially) compare xover you just posted , with this , also originating from your pile of files :
yep
it is SP1032 , exactly like pictured
seems that we just aren't using same terminology , blame on me 😉
it is SP1032 , exactly like pictured
seems that we just aren't using same terminology , blame on me 😉
Hi,
What is best for repair often has a lot more to do with repair skills,
and the application of common sense than the original details.
T27 diaphragm detachment is very rare, if its still aligned I'd use
minimal quantities of "superglue" and some jig that pressed on
the surround to spread the "superglue" to best effect.
Or not .....
Re 1# if you want to do serious diy work with the Chorales as a starting place, try and find the Wilkinson (I think) 2way closed box designed based on B200. It came in two editions both published in Wireless World in the 70's.(around 1978 for the first iteration) One was the B200 and T15, now almost impossible to get. But the second version had an Audax 34mm unit as a tweeter. They were Linkwitz-Riley 4th order jobs with a lot of interesting irregular cabinet work and complex cross over work. So if you decided to move on from the T27 a modern equivalent to the Audax will be around. The detailed work on the Xover in that project should address mid range issues. It was quite thorough......
Jonathan
Jonathan
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