Hi,
I recently got these 3 way tower speakers from my godfather and when I connect It to my amplifier only the middle was working, I've tried it with a Technics SA-EX310. I've tried it also with a Kenwood KRF-A4030 and the issue stayed the same. All I know about these speakers they were used long time ago.
also here all the specs that I could read of the speakers:
I also know about the technics amplifier It can be used with because it supports 8 ohm speakers.
I also heard that these speaker have a poor crossover and It might need a better one. I really don't know how I can replace it by myself and what kind of circuit bord do i need to buy, but the speakers worked before without the crossover change so I don't think It's necessary.
Sorry If the answer is really clear but I only got this far
Adam
Odorheiu-secuiesc
I recently got these 3 way tower speakers from my godfather and when I connect It to my amplifier only the middle was working, I've tried it with a Technics SA-EX310. I've tried it also with a Kenwood KRF-A4030 and the issue stayed the same. All I know about these speakers they were used long time ago.
also here all the specs that I could read of the speakers:
- Long term power: 100w
- short term power: 170w
- frequency range: 50hz - 20.000hz
- impedance: 4 - 8 ohm
I also know about the technics amplifier It can be used with because it supports 8 ohm speakers.
I also heard that these speaker have a poor crossover and It might need a better one. I really don't know how I can replace it by myself and what kind of circuit bord do i need to buy, but the speakers worked before without the crossover change so I don't think It's necessary.
Sorry If the answer is really clear but I only got this far
Adam
Odorheiu-secuiesc
Welcome to the forum Adam!
The crossover is very simple and a circuit board is not necessary as the components are, or can be, wired directly to the drivers.
- There are no crossover components associated with the woofer.
- There is a 1 uF capacitor in series with the midrange.
- There is an inductor (coil) in parallel with the tweeter and a 2.2 uF capacitor is in series with this combination.
My initial advice is to get inside the enclosure and inspect the wiring and crossover components, looking for any bad connections.
The woofer should play when you connect the speaker to the amplifier as it is connected directly to the speaker terminals. The fact that it doesn't indicates a bad connection or, if you are unlucky, a burnt out voice coil.
Do you have a multimeter with which to measure the DC resistance of the drivers?
I've found a picture!
Each of the two capacitors comes straight off the woofer's positive terminal and the tweeter's coil is glued directly to the tweeter magnet assembly.
Each of the two capacitors comes straight off the woofer's positive terminal and the tweeter's coil is glued directly to the tweeter magnet assembly.
I'd leave the crossover until you find the current problems. You'll probably want to check the resistance of the existing drivers which would call for a meter. If any are damaged you'll want to make a decision about all of that type.
Hi
Unfortunately there was no problem with the wiring and connections, but with the speakers itself.
I didn’t have a multimeter so I used a 9v battery to test If the speakers are still working and the middles are working and the subs are not, Its so funny because none of them the two subs are working. On the subs the membranes are damaged but they don’t make any sound, the tweeters are okay but they don’t make any sound when they are all wired up just when I tested separately.
Should I hand it to a service or I have to buy a new pair of subs? Or can I fix my self?
Unfortunately there was no problem with the wiring and connections, but with the speakers itself.
I didn’t have a multimeter so I used a 9v battery to test If the speakers are still working and the middles are working and the subs are not, Its so funny because none of them the two subs are working. On the subs the membranes are damaged but they don’t make any sound, the tweeters are okay but they don’t make any sound when they are all wired up just when I tested separately.
Should I hand it to a service or I have to buy a new pair of subs? Or can I fix my self?
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Handing the speakers in for professional servicing is unlikely to be a financially viable option. The servicing time involved would result in high charges.
The rubber/foam surrounds of the woofers could be repaired/replaced by you, but the battery test would indicate that the woofer voice coils are burned out and beyond the ability of an amateur to repair.
That leaves us with the possibility of buying a replacement pair of woofers, but how/where to find a compatible pair?
Things you can do:
- Post any information, such as a part number and impedance in ohms, visible on the woofer magnet label.
- Measure the outer diameter of the woofer and the diameter of the circular cut out in the baffle (in mm).
P.P.S. Sometimes in cases like this it is more cost effective just to consider buying another set of speakers. It depends how much you are into DIY!
P.P.P.S. You need to buy a cheap multimeter in order to confirm the condition of the drivers and check the continuity of the wiring. Also order replacement capacitors (either bipolar electrolytic types or polypropylene film types) so you can eliminate capacitor failure as a cause of tweeter malfunction.
Here all the details of the two subs:
I watched a video about how to repair it, not really just how does a speaker working and I figured it out, repair it by myself is the only thing I'm afraid of is all the cutting, because I cut out the dust cap in order to find something but i find out where is the coil wired and I'm afraid I might mess up.
I know how to fix It I just don't have the right tools.
Yes I also considered to buy a multimeter, they are not as expensive as I expected
I don't really understand the last P.S. can you explain It pleas?
- diameter of the subs till the metal edge is 205mm
- the diameter of the foam ring is 190 mm
- I couldn't find the impedance on the back of the magnet but on the casing it says 4-8 ohm
- on the magnet is written Jamo, Item: 22503
- the cut out on the casing is 180 mm
I watched a video about how to repair it, not really just how does a speaker working and I figured it out, repair it by myself is the only thing I'm afraid of is all the cutting, because I cut out the dust cap in order to find something but i find out where is the coil wired and I'm afraid I might mess up.
I know how to fix It I just don't have the right tools.
Yes I also considered to buy a multimeter, they are not as expensive as I expected
I don't really understand the last P.S. can you explain It pleas?
There is no easy fix for a burnt out voice coil, but replacing a damaged cone surround is in most people's grasp.
This is a nominal 8" bass driver. A 22503 sold on ebay for £10 (EUR 12) at the end of November so keep your eyes open.
You could check out Partmaster24 who claim, "We have parts for the full range of Jamo speaker system models, so we’re sure to have the part you need."
It looks like you have to fill in the order form to check the part's availability: https://partmaster24.com/speaker-system/jamo/
If you mean the P.S. regarding the midrange driver, then I'm suggesting that it will be barely audible.
If you mean my P.P.P.S., exactly which part do you need explaining?
This is a nominal 8" bass driver. A 22503 sold on ebay for £10 (EUR 12) at the end of November so keep your eyes open.
You could check out Partmaster24 who claim, "We have parts for the full range of Jamo speaker system models, so we’re sure to have the part you need."
It looks like you have to fill in the order form to check the part's availability: https://partmaster24.com/speaker-system/jamo/
If you mean the P.S. regarding the midrange driver, then I'm suggesting that it will be barely audible.
If you mean my P.P.P.S., exactly which part do you need explaining?
This, you mean those two big things on the cables? the 1uf and the 2.2uf those are the capacitors?
Thanks for the site, I ordered It, I think they will answer me if they have the spare parts but i didn't see the speaker on their site.
I was thinking, If I change those subs idk for a better one ore another sub from another brand, could It work?
Yes, those are the capacitors.
The enclosure volume and the rear port dimensions are chosen to specifically match the mechanical and electrical parameters of the 22503 woofer.
Substituting a differently specified 8" bass driver would be an entirely hit or miss affair that I wouldn't wish to contemplate at this juncture.
The enclosure volume and the rear port dimensions are chosen to specifically match the mechanical and electrical parameters of the 22503 woofer.
Substituting a differently specified 8" bass driver would be an entirely hit or miss affair that I wouldn't wish to contemplate at this juncture.
The photo is out of focus, but it looks like the right hand flexible tinsel lead has become detached from the thin voice coil wire.
If I have got that wrong please tell me and/or post a clearer image.
An external tinsel wire may pass through the driver's paper cone (as the left hand tinsel wire appears to do) where it is soldered to the internal voice coil wire.
The dust cap often has to be removed to expose the internal junction with the voice coil wire in order that resoldering may take place.
There are videos of the procedure on YouTube.
In this video the speaker has an additional whizzer cone instead of a covering dust cap, but the principle of repair is the same:
P.S. There is likely a broken connection at a similar point in the other woofer that you cannot see, but can investigate.
If I have got that wrong please tell me and/or post a clearer image.
An external tinsel wire may pass through the driver's paper cone (as the left hand tinsel wire appears to do) where it is soldered to the internal voice coil wire.
The dust cap often has to be removed to expose the internal junction with the voice coil wire in order that resoldering may take place.
There are videos of the procedure on YouTube.
In this video the speaker has an additional whizzer cone instead of a covering dust cap, but the principle of repair is the same:
P.S. There is likely a broken connection at a similar point in the other woofer that you cannot see, but can investigate.
Sorry for the blurry picture the left flexible tinsel is broken, the right is correct it has the black glue on the bottom.
The flexible tinsel is connected under the paper membrane in the middle of the spider paper or idk what it called the yellow wavy paper. I can’t reach into it deep enough, do I need to cut of the too membrane?
The flexible tinsel is connected under the paper membrane in the middle of the spider paper or idk what it called the yellow wavy paper. I can’t reach into it deep enough, do I need to cut of the too membrane?
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Yes, I see it now. The left hand tinsel wire in the original photo is disconnected from where it should pass through the cone.
You need to carefully slice off the front dust cap with a sharp modelling knife in order to expose the tinsel wire/voice coil wire junction hidden underneath.
Do this neatly so that the dust cap can be glued back on later.
You need to carefully slice off the front dust cap with a sharp modelling knife in order to expose the tinsel wire/voice coil wire junction hidden underneath.
Do this neatly so that the dust cap can be glued back on later.
I had to go out and have now returned, but not with good news I'm afraid!
The tinsel wire meets the paper cone at an awkward position close to or beneath the corrugated rear suspension or spider.
Unfortunately, removing the dust cap does not expose a junction with the voice coil wire.
All I can suggest is using a sharp blade to gently scrape off the black adhesive covering the outer junction next to the spider to see if the voice coil wire or remaining section of tinsel wire is revealed. Perhaps then you could resolder the joint.
Not that it helps, but the broken tinsel wire joint is likely a consequence of the cone having exceeded its to and fro excursion limit. In other words, the speakers may have been played too loudly by the previous owner, probably during a house party.
Woofer replacement would appear to be the only option. If you can't obtain the correct Jamo 22503 woofers at a reasonable price you may wish to take a chance on a pair of inexpensive generic 8" woofers. You would have to be prepared to write off the cost if they did not produce a decent result.
I made an EDIT to my suggestion.
The tinsel wire meets the paper cone at an awkward position close to or beneath the corrugated rear suspension or spider.
Unfortunately, removing the dust cap does not expose a junction with the voice coil wire.
All I can suggest is using a sharp blade to gently scrape off the black adhesive covering the outer junction next to the spider to see if the voice coil wire or remaining section of tinsel wire is revealed. Perhaps then you could resolder the joint.
Not that it helps, but the broken tinsel wire joint is likely a consequence of the cone having exceeded its to and fro excursion limit. In other words, the speakers may have been played too loudly by the previous owner, probably during a house party.
Woofer replacement would appear to be the only option. If you can't obtain the correct Jamo 22503 woofers at a reasonable price you may wish to take a chance on a pair of inexpensive generic 8" woofers. You would have to be prepared to write off the cost if they did not produce a decent result.
I made an EDIT to my suggestion.
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