So I have two very free JL Audio 12w1v2-4 12" drivers, a very comfortable skill level for wood working, a completely kitted out workshop and a reasonable amount of free time this summer.
The idea is two subs to fill out the 30ish-60hz range where my Klipsch La Scalas have zero effective output for music. Quickness and accuracy are more important to me than going very very low since if I'm not mistaken there's not much going on sub 30hz in most music.
The current plan would be to use Dayton SPA250's on each one and build with 3/4" or 1" MDF. The La Scala's are 2'x2'x3' so I'm not averse to gigantic speakers but I would like to keep these maximum less than 18"x18"x24"...a little variation here or there could be acceptable but that ballpark.
The real question here is, is this worth doing with these woofers? I know very little about car audio stuff and what makes a "good" subwoofer driver. I'd like to use these as they're free if possible and I have no interest in rattling my car apart.
I will not be even a little bit insulted if the consensus is "don't do this."
**Also I know purists will say to use a horn loaded sub with fully horn loaded speakers but I feel like they will be outrageously large to get down to 30hz.
Thanks for any suggestions and/or pointing me in the right direction to figure out some boxes.
The idea is two subs to fill out the 30ish-60hz range where my Klipsch La Scalas have zero effective output for music. Quickness and accuracy are more important to me than going very very low since if I'm not mistaken there's not much going on sub 30hz in most music.
The current plan would be to use Dayton SPA250's on each one and build with 3/4" or 1" MDF. The La Scala's are 2'x2'x3' so I'm not averse to gigantic speakers but I would like to keep these maximum less than 18"x18"x24"...a little variation here or there could be acceptable but that ballpark.
The real question here is, is this worth doing with these woofers? I know very little about car audio stuff and what makes a "good" subwoofer driver. I'd like to use these as they're free if possible and I have no interest in rattling my car apart.
I will not be even a little bit insulted if the consensus is "don't do this."
**Also I know purists will say to use a horn loaded sub with fully horn loaded speakers but I feel like they will be outrageously large to get down to 30hz.
Thanks for any suggestions and/or pointing me in the right direction to figure out some boxes.
Hmmm, lascalas can have less and less below 140hz.
Especially not on concrete.
Not a bad looking sub there.
Fs 24hz
Qts .41
Vas 3.8ft3
Shooting from the hip, id say 3.8ft3 tuned to 24hz, your f3 will be near 24hz also (because of qts).
Healthy to me for a ported sub.
Even their recommended box seems fine.
Their recommended sealed f3 just under 45hz would work really well in a car (to me), but you arn't asking bout that.
Stubborn 86db, but expected in a car sub with 10mm xmax and 24hz fs.
So 1 watt lascala (let alone 2) will need 30 watts to a sub, probably more as i like my sub a few db hotter.
Unfortunately, the lascala will leave those in the dust when you crank it.
I think you will strugle with horn lascala and crossing over to sub, but that will happen no matter what sub you use.
I've had luck running mains wide open, crossing in sub, and flipping polarity for most mid bass.
Especially not on concrete.
Not a bad looking sub there.
Fs 24hz
Qts .41
Vas 3.8ft3
Shooting from the hip, id say 3.8ft3 tuned to 24hz, your f3 will be near 24hz also (because of qts).
Healthy to me for a ported sub.
Even their recommended box seems fine.
Their recommended sealed f3 just under 45hz would work really well in a car (to me), but you arn't asking bout that.
Stubborn 86db, but expected in a car sub with 10mm xmax and 24hz fs.
So 1 watt lascala (let alone 2) will need 30 watts to a sub, probably more as i like my sub a few db hotter.
Unfortunately, the lascala will leave those in the dust when you crank it.
I think you will strugle with horn lascala and crossing over to sub, but that will happen no matter what sub you use.
I've had luck running mains wide open, crossing in sub, and flipping polarity for most mid bass.
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Yeah currently I have a little Klipsch R10-SW filling out sub 80hz and it's definitely doing the job at normal listening levels but the la scalas just leave it in the dust if the volume goes up at all.
That's nice to know that the subs are decent spec wise, if I do ported I feel like it would be easier to implement tube ports instead of the big slot purely because of the plate amp on the backside. Am I right in assuming this is simple enough that I can just plug the stats into a calculator and go from there?
That's nice to know that the subs are decent spec wise, if I do ported I feel like it would be easier to implement tube ports instead of the big slot purely because of the plate amp on the backside. Am I right in assuming this is simple enough that I can just plug the stats into a calculator and go from there?
Yes, You'll get a cab a bit larger than its Vas, tuned a little lower than Fs, though even with a single long 6" dia. [min] vent, some damping will likely be required to damp it IF you use the amp's full power down around tuning.
This little test is a good way to check/deal with it: Click Test | GM210 | Flickr
With the factory cab or my preferred ~73.42 L [net] Fs tuned prosound alignment, the 6" pipe is just barely sufficient at rated power.
GM
This little test is a good way to check/deal with it: Click Test | GM210 | Flickr
With the factory cab or my preferred ~73.42 L [net] Fs tuned prosound alignment, the 6" pipe is just barely sufficient at rated power.
GM
Alright so I've been playing around with volumes in the 3.8ft^3 range and tunings around 24/25hz but any time I put a 6" port the length is longer than anything that could fit in the enclosure, do I use bends? like with PVC elbows? Or am I missing something?
I'm also considering just making them 24x24x16ish with a slot port on the front so they're the same footprint as the la scala's and they can live underneath them. It gets the tweeters up a little too high ~4 feet but not terrible and no added footprint.
Well, you can use a smaller port, it will act as a brake a bit at higher volumes.
I believe a slot port can be 1/3 shorter when on a wall, can't remember.
I believe a slot port can be 1/3 shorter when on a wall, can't remember.
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