Hello everyone, I am new to this forum and would greatly appreciate any help. I have done a lot of research and learned almost everything I know about audio from just reading through posts on the forums. Based off what I learned, I want to build a subwoofer, which will have:
--Dayton Titanic 15" Driver
--Dayton or BASH 500w plate amp
--250 liter enclosure
--Port tuned to 17.8hz
Is 10 gauge speaker wire sufficient for this project? That is what I had planned on using.
If you have any suggestions or comments, or anything you think I should do to make the design better, please feel free to post. I have a $500 dollar budget, if there's anything I can do to make this design better while remaining within my budget, please let me know.
PS: Will this subwoofer be good for music, movies, and games?
--Thanks
--Dayton Titanic 15" Driver
--Dayton or BASH 500w plate amp
--250 liter enclosure
--Port tuned to 17.8hz
Is 10 gauge speaker wire sufficient for this project? That is what I had planned on using.
If you have any suggestions or comments, or anything you think I should do to make the design better, please feel free to post. I have a $500 dollar budget, if there's anything I can do to make this design better while remaining within my budget, please let me know.
PS: Will this subwoofer be good for music, movies, and games?
--Thanks
Dayton recommends a 153L enclosure tuned to 23Hz for that sub (I'm assuming you're talking about the current model, Titanic MKIII)
Any reason you want to deviate from that?
Any reason you want to deviate from that?
His design sims better than the dayton recomendation IMO. Sort of a mild EBS gets that last half 8va of musical material and compensates for room gain. Looks good to me.
mike
mike
Yes I am talking about the MKIII. I didn't think their reccomended enclosure was always good?Lothar34 said:
Thanks for the responses.
There is a 3db difference at a certain frequency in the 2 designs. I think 3db indicates a doubling of power, but does that also mean a doubling of loudness?
They're recommendation is for a plain ported system.
If you're going for EBS, then I think you're spot on.
If you're going for EBS, then I think you're spot on.
I'm gonna feel dumb, but what do you mean by an EBS?Lothar34 said:
And what will be the differences in my design and their reccomended design?
anglerz007 said:I'm gonna feel dumb, but what do you mean by an EBS?
And what will be the differences in my design and their reccomended design?
EBS = Extented bass shelf:
http://www.diysubwoofers.org/prt/ported5.htm
(that should answer both questions)
That's really personal preference. Either should be plenty loud for a HT setup.
I guess my question would be what is going to happen to the speaker at Fs. Qts is close to what it should be but on the high side. The speaker may not react right at the lower end.
Drop a line to PE and ask if they would recommend this alignment. Strange things happen down low.
Drop a line to PE and ask if they would recommend this alignment. Strange things happen down low.
I don't know exactly what you mean, but I will go ahead and contact Partsexpress to see if they would reccomend this allignment.Dryseals said:
Here is part of the conversation I had with the PE tech support.
Richard
I asked about this allignment in a forum and here is the response I got:
"I guess my question would be what is going to happen to the speaker at Fs. Qts is close to what it should be but on the high side. The speaker may not react right at the lower end.
Drop a line to PE and ask if they would recommend this alignment. Strange things happen down low."
What does he mean by this? Is he correct?
Mike
He is going by EBP, which is an overused and highly generalized specification that has pretty much gone away due to greater understanding of speaker building. It used to be used to determine if a speaker works better in a sealed or ported enclosure. Nowadays we can figure out how to build the right ported or sealed box for any speaker if we know it's specs.
Richard
I asked about this allignment in a forum and here is the response I got:
"I guess my question would be what is going to happen to the speaker at Fs. Qts is close to what it should be but on the high side. The speaker may not react right at the lower end.
Drop a line to PE and ask if they would recommend this alignment. Strange things happen down low."
What does he mean by this? Is he correct?
Mike
He is going by EBP, which is an overused and highly generalized specification that has pretty much gone away due to greater understanding of speaker building. It used to be used to determine if a speaker works better in a sealed or ported enclosure. Nowadays we can figure out how to build the right ported or sealed box for any speaker if we know it's specs.
anglerz007 said:
Make no mistake ,EBP is STILL a good guide,nothing has changed.We simply have modeling programs that tell us the details.
Strange things happen down low apparently?
-Hmm? Aliens arriving? Brown note? Why doesnt he specify.
You cant achieve a nice overdamped ,EBS alignment when your driver Qts is one of those inbetween sealed OR ported ones that are Qts 0.35-0.45.
Go with the most overdamped response you can ,build it,pay attention to room placement and EQ. That will have more effect than +-10litres or +-5hz tunings.
Personally id go for 16hz tuning and less than 200Litres.
Remember room gain,the graph is for 2pi outdoors,on the ground!
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