Hi all, im building a system with two dayton 10 inch reference HO subwoofers. I need a cheap but reasonable quality amp that can do them justice. Im not after maxing them out (600w rms) but i want headroom to eq. They are paired with modest 50wpc fullrange drivers.
Im planning to build a single box containing sub amp, psu, minidsp and bluetooth reciever.
Ive been looking at the sure and connex... However the inuke is very reasonably priced.. I could buy it and either put the other bits in its case (i imagine its quite empty inside) or move it to a nicer case with my bits.
Is it crap? Better to get a class d/t board and psu for a little more?
Thanks!
Im planning to build a single box containing sub amp, psu, minidsp and bluetooth reciever.
Ive been looking at the sure and connex... However the inuke is very reasonably priced.. I could buy it and either put the other bits in its case (i imagine its quite empty inside) or move it to a nicer case with my bits.
Is it crap? Better to get a class d/t board and psu for a little more?
Thanks!
It depends on how much power you really need. They get a bit lower power than advetised but the power/price ratio is really great and they are often the cheapest viable option.
The Daytons have an extremely low spl, you'll need a lot of power. The sub drivers are probably not the best choice though. They are good at very low frequencies with huge power, high spl and getting really low but they are sloooow and the upper end is bad. If you got small BBs and/or listening to low volume, it's the wrong choice to pair them. If you got mid-sized BBs (150mm+), that can work, otherwise fine adjustment or different subs or BBs.
The Daytons have an extremely low spl, you'll need a lot of power. The sub drivers are probably not the best choice though. They are good at very low frequencies with huge power, high spl and getting really low but they are sloooow and the upper end is bad. If you got small BBs and/or listening to low volume, it's the wrong choice to pair them. If you got mid-sized BBs (150mm+), that can work, otherwise fine adjustment or different subs or BBs.
I actually chose the 8 inch version, because i need a compact sub, and they work great in small boxes. The 10 inch were sent in error.. Ill be crossing over to ported fullrangers at 80-100 hz. Ive not read anything critical about these drivers before...
Fullrangers are projected to be 2x alpair 7's each side..
Im limited in baffle width for the fullrange cabs, so larger drivers are problematic.
Im limited in baffle width for the fullrange cabs, so larger drivers are problematic.
iNuke
Hi,
I use a inuke 3000 dsp to power the woofers in my open baffle speakers. It works well and sounds good. But I changed the ventilator for a much more quite one. Easy and cheap modification.
Michael
Hi,
I use a inuke 3000 dsp to power the woofers in my open baffle speakers. It works well and sounds good. But I changed the ventilator for a much more quite one. Easy and cheap modification.
Michael
They go go low enough for a setup with the daytons. You can't use the power of the iNuke though, the alpairs are limited because of the distortion to ~100dB. So you won't need the power of the iNuke at all, you exceed the spl of the spl of the alpairs by 6 dB already by ~150W for the sub.
They are better at <80Hz. 100Hz will work too, depending on your standards. They're just not good at kick bass, they lack of precision there because of the huge mass of over 200g.
Yeah i assumed as much, (i planned on the 8's on a 150 wpc amp)
However id like a bit of headroom to eq, and should i change fullrangers, it would be nice not to change amp. I was thinking 200wpc, but all the comments ive seen suggested you need a lot of power for the 10's, so ive been leaning twards larger amps..
However id like a bit of headroom to eq, and should i change fullrangers, it would be nice not to change amp. I was thinking 200wpc, but all the comments ive seen suggested you need a lot of power for the 10's, so ive been leaning twards larger amps..
I intentionally used the hypens. Yes, I should have said 'bad impulse response'. Nevertheless, those mud shovels are sluggish and the kick bass sounds awful with them. Either you let do that range the tops (for which yours are too small) or you get a lower mass bass driver.
And no, you misunderstood me wrong. When the Alpair do ~100dB, they are at the border of acceptable distortion (3-5%). You exceed that level with the daytons by 6dB alread at 150W for the sub, even at the low spl they have. You want even more headroom? Yes, double that power by 2 (to 300W) and you get additional 3dB. So no, it does not make sense to get a bigger amp. Don't misunderstand me, the iNuke isn't a bad choice and good power for the money and it's perfectly fine to get it. But you are nowhere near the actual need of that power for that setup. That said, there are loads of options for amps which have a lot better quality - you will realize what I mean by that once you touch the iNuke - in the power range you really need, with better build quality, less noisy fans (yes, they are annoying) for a similar price. Again, if you like the iNuke, go for it, but you should get it for the right reasons and not just because they have a big power-tag on it.
And no, you misunderstood me wrong. When the Alpair do ~100dB, they are at the border of acceptable distortion (3-5%). You exceed that level with the daytons by 6dB alread at 150W for the sub, even at the low spl they have. You want even more headroom? Yes, double that power by 2 (to 300W) and you get additional 3dB. So no, it does not make sense to get a bigger amp. Don't misunderstand me, the iNuke isn't a bad choice and good power for the money and it's perfectly fine to get it. But you are nowhere near the actual need of that power for that setup. That said, there are loads of options for amps which have a lot better quality - you will realize what I mean by that once you touch the iNuke - in the power range you really need, with better build quality, less noisy fans (yes, they are annoying) for a similar price. Again, if you like the iNuke, go for it, but you should get it for the right reasons and not just because they have a big power-tag on it.
Ok understood. No i wasnt pushing for the inuke at all, and i was hoping for advice on the amount of power id need. Could you suggest a good amp choice for my needs? , there are a ton of options.
P. S. "mud shovels" i actually laughed out loud at that, despite the fact you were describing the drivers id purchased 😉
P. S. "mud shovels" i actually laughed out loud at that, despite the fact you were describing the drivers id purchased 😉
The problem is, I don't know about the prices in GB and what you can get and what not. I know you could buy from Thomann, a t.amp TSA 2200 (class AB with SMPS) or a Behringer EP4000 (conventional PS and class H) if you really want that high power. If you want to stay in the reasonable power range, a Samson SXD3000 (excellent: with dsp for significantly below 300€) or a Behringer EP2000, cheapest and best selling the t.amp TA1050 MK-X. Try to avoid the t.amp E800 (relyable but goes haywire on the power limit) and Behringer KM series. Keep in mind, the suggestions may vary in value for the money depending on the price you have to pay and what other options are available. Over here there are ofcourse also other good amps you can get but I don't now anything on availability at your place so I save us rambling about that.
If you want to stay at DIY, on eBay there are good IRS2092S 500W Mono boards and L30D boards, with a SMPS like this for the L30D or this one for the other amp. I don't know these SMPS personally though. You still need fans, enclosure, connectors, cables etc but you'd save 20-25% for only a bit lower power (still plenty) or save more, depending on what you have at hand already.
If you want to stay at DIY, on eBay there are good IRS2092S 500W Mono boards and L30D boards, with a SMPS like this for the L30D or this one for the other amp. I don't know these SMPS personally though. You still need fans, enclosure, connectors, cables etc but you'd save 20-25% for only a bit lower power (still plenty) or save more, depending on what you have at hand already.
I just remembered, Sure/Wondom got a broad variety of power amp boards with a wide range in power, too. The IRS2092S boards are generally quite good for subs while for fullrange I prefer the Tripath amps. Just keep in mind the power specs on practially all DIY (sure/ebay/ali etc) boards are at 10%THD, the realistic power is usually ~20% below the stated rating.
Im surprised, after saying the inuke1000 (rated 300wpc into 4ohm) was overkill, all your alternate suggestions are more powerful...? - im definitely looking for a bare diy amp board.. I was only considering the inuke as it was so cheap.
WHERE were you talking about it being a iNuke 1000?
I'm sorry for the confusion but I couldn't assume anything other an with that in mind, the suggestions become much more reasonable. In your situation I think it's probably the best option to go for a L25D amp or something similar, if you find you need more, build it again for a 2nd channel. Or, if you want to buy an amp, get one of the smaller ones I suggested. Smaller PA amps are usually not a good choice for subs, go for sub amp modules instead then. However you decide, avoid 2 Ohm setups, dimished damping factor, noisy fans, heat and critical-to-the-limit currents are not making anyone happy.
- You were talking about the 600W each and wanting to have more headroom. The iNuke 1000 got nowhere anything near that power, let alone for each of the drivers.
- The iNuke is by far the worst of the series and delivers the lowest % of the promised power. This is common knowledge (well, at least I thought so, over here it's the case).
- That left only the conclusion you were talking about the iNuke 3000 because it's the one and only that fits the criteria - all others are way off of that.
- The iNuke 3000 has always been the one to go for.
I'm sorry for the confusion but I couldn't assume anything other an with that in mind, the suggestions become much more reasonable. In your situation I think it's probably the best option to go for a L25D amp or something similar, if you find you need more, build it again for a 2nd channel. Or, if you want to buy an amp, get one of the smaller ones I suggested. Smaller PA amps are usually not a good choice for subs, go for sub amp modules instead then. However you decide, avoid 2 Ohm setups, dimished damping factor, noisy fans, heat and critical-to-the-limit currents are not making anyone happy.
Ah my mistake, i forgot to specify the 1000 model. I mentioned the 600w rms spec, but said i didnt wat to max them out. I am looking at 2-300 wpc @4ohm. As we discussed much more than sufficient for my needs. Good suggestion about buying a bridgeable amp, that way if i need to later, (for example pairing them with more powerful satellites) i can buy another and double up.
I think ill continue looking at the sure/connexelectronic kits. Connex in particular have some nice looking amps and tiny smps specifically for amps.
I think ill continue looking at the sure/connexelectronic kits. Connex in particular have some nice looking amps and tiny smps specifically for amps.
so i am considering the 200w version of this:
http://www.audiophonics.fr/images2/6945/IRS2092_Stereo_Amplifier.pdf
will do 2x 206w into 4 ohm with 0.1 thd (apparently, but i know the connex amps are well regarded)
can be bridged and chuck out 700w+ into 4 ohm, but since ill probably get a 500w smps for it, ill never get that much out of it.
http://www.audiophonics.fr/images2/6945/IRS2092_Stereo_Amplifier.pdf
will do 2x 206w into 4 ohm with 0.1 thd (apparently, but i know the connex amps are well regarded)
can be bridged and chuck out 700w+ into 4 ohm, but since ill probably get a 500w smps for it, ill never get that much out of it.
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