Hi all,
I've heard so much stuff about tweaking the all the cd6000 models apart from the KI. There is all the stuff mentioned about blue tacking the insides and the transport fine, also imroving the power cord,but has anybody actaully played around with swapping parts of the circuitry?
Any simple easily solderable parts would be of a great help such as OPamps. Which ones make the biggest difference and what type should one use? Any circuit diagrams available?
I wonder, as the player has had a going over by Ken, if there is much more that can be done improve it? Is it worth changing the clock, and if so what would better than the current one?
Any help on this would really be appreciated. I suppose I'm asking for a list of good options and details, but specifically for the KI, because big differences are harder to find as CDP price increase.
Anyone who has tweaked this baby, please show us how its done. I' sure there is a lot more to get out of this CDP.
best regards
Rob
I've heard so much stuff about tweaking the all the cd6000 models apart from the KI. There is all the stuff mentioned about blue tacking the insides and the transport fine, also imroving the power cord,but has anybody actaully played around with swapping parts of the circuitry?
Any simple easily solderable parts would be of a great help such as OPamps. Which ones make the biggest difference and what type should one use? Any circuit diagrams available?
I wonder, as the player has had a going over by Ken, if there is much more that can be done improve it? Is it worth changing the clock, and if so what would better than the current one?
Any help on this would really be appreciated. I suppose I'm asking for a list of good options and details, but specifically for the KI, because big differences are harder to find as CDP price increase.
Anyone who has tweaked this baby, please show us how its done. I' sure there is a lot more to get out of this CDP.
best regards
Rob
Konnichiwa,
There are some material differences between KI and standards, but few electronic ones. Virtually all tweaks applicable to the 6000 OSE also apply to the KI. The OSE & KI differ from the cooking 6000 by having a second DAC and not using ANY monolithic Op-Amp's, instead they use discrete circuits called "HDAM", which are in the end still op-amps, but made from discrete components.
The HDAM is in circuit terms quite similar to the seminal Kaneta Preamp building block, but the output stage differs and it does not sound as good as the Kaneta circuit. The Kaneta Circuit in turn is very similar to what is inside the Burr Brown OPA627 (though the Kaneta circuit predates the OPA627 by at least a deade) and I usually prefer the Burr Broan Chip, but that is just as aside.
Well, I did it for the 63/67, most of what I did there also applies to the 6000, though partnumbers have changed.
As said, the Op-Amp's are actually discrete and not easy to replace and improve upon. Circuit diagrams are available as part of the Service manual from your local Marantz spares part distributor, your Marantz Distributor should be able to give you contact details and a partnumber for the manual.
Tons actually. But I personally would leave Ken's machines alone. They have a certain collectors value and keep their value well. Buy a stock, 2nd hand 6000 (non OSE) and mess about with that one....
Probably it would be worth changing, I had no particular luck with the tricord clock1 & 2 for the CD63 & 67, I did find the very expensive Audiocom Superclock to be a good improvement. If you want to spend that kind of money I must leave to you.
Sayonara
Pound0sound said:
There are some material differences between KI and standards, but few electronic ones. Virtually all tweaks applicable to the 6000 OSE also apply to the KI. The OSE & KI differ from the cooking 6000 by having a second DAC and not using ANY monolithic Op-Amp's, instead they use discrete circuits called "HDAM", which are in the end still op-amps, but made from discrete components.
The HDAM is in circuit terms quite similar to the seminal Kaneta Preamp building block, but the output stage differs and it does not sound as good as the Kaneta circuit. The Kaneta Circuit in turn is very similar to what is inside the Burr Brown OPA627 (though the Kaneta circuit predates the OPA627 by at least a deade) and I usually prefer the Burr Broan Chip, but that is just as aside.
Pound0sound said:
Well, I did it for the 63/67, most of what I did there also applies to the 6000, though partnumbers have changed.
Pound0sound said:
As said, the Op-Amp's are actually discrete and not easy to replace and improve upon. Circuit diagrams are available as part of the Service manual from your local Marantz spares part distributor, your Marantz Distributor should be able to give you contact details and a partnumber for the manual.
Pound0sound said:
Tons actually. But I personally would leave Ken's machines alone. They have a certain collectors value and keep their value well. Buy a stock, 2nd hand 6000 (non OSE) and mess about with that one....
Pound0sound said:
Probably it would be worth changing, I had no particular luck with the tricord clock1 & 2 for the CD63 & 67, I did find the very expensive Audiocom Superclock to be a good improvement. If you want to spend that kind of money I must leave to you.
Sayonara
hi,
this is my first posting, so please excuse me if it's not so bright 🙂
Did anyone tried to SHORTEN the headphone out of marantz cd6000Ki, cause i did and it sounds better than just disconnecting the headphone out from the internal pins.
My question is - could this be harmful to the player's circuit. mine is this way for more than year now and nothing so far
thank you
peter
this is my first posting, so please excuse me if it's not so bright 🙂
Did anyone tried to SHORTEN the headphone out of marantz cd6000Ki, cause i did and it sounds better than just disconnecting the headphone out from the internal pins.
My question is - could this be harmful to the player's circuit. mine is this way for more than year now and nothing so far
thank you
peter
Superclock 2 in CD6000
I have recently installed an audiocom superclock 2 into my cd6000 and the difference is dramatic. I was blown away by the massive improvement in detail, bass weight, punch. It is a different player now and although I have never heard a KI model I would be very very surprised if my basic cd6000 with the superclock isn't some leagues ahead of a stock KI model . The KI model has the same clock so I would definitely upgrade that. I am planning on doing quite a few upgrades to the player. Audiocom have a list on their site. http://www.audiocominternational.com/
I have recently installed an audiocom superclock 2 into my cd6000 and the difference is dramatic. I was blown away by the massive improvement in detail, bass weight, punch. It is a different player now and although I have never heard a KI model I would be very very surprised if my basic cd6000 with the superclock isn't some leagues ahead of a stock KI model . The KI model has the same clock so I would definitely upgrade that. I am planning on doing quite a few upgrades to the player. Audiocom have a list on their site. http://www.audiocominternational.com/
pied piper?
CD6000 I see you are a musician. Play your pipes and lead us up to the doors of Audiocom.
Use your time to come up with a "cost-effective" upgrade. It may be more effective than this sort of underhand promotion.
Audiocom prices are outrageous
Mizan
(London, UK)
CD6000 I see you are a musician. Play your pipes and lead us up to the doors of Audiocom.
Use your time to come up with a "cost-effective" upgrade. It may be more effective than this sort of underhand promotion.
Audiocom prices are outrageous
Mizan
(London, UK)
Dear Sukalite,
before pointing out people advertising products, read this:
"Incidentally we think the 'ground bounce' issue is why 'superclock' upgrades work so well. If an external clock is used, the signal is fed into XTO (pin 28) and CD02, CD03 and XD01 are removed. Which means the internal logic gate is still used on the DAC, but it now has the ground trace to itself and so cannot interfere with the oscillator."
(http://www.acoustica.org.uk/t/63/63hacks.html)
I can recommend this tweak as a lite version of installing a "superclock"...and much cheaper.
Cheers
before pointing out people advertising products, read this:
"Incidentally we think the 'ground bounce' issue is why 'superclock' upgrades work so well. If an external clock is used, the signal is fed into XTO (pin 28) and CD02, CD03 and XD01 are removed. Which means the internal logic gate is still used on the DAC, but it now has the ground trace to itself and so cannot interfere with the oscillator."
(http://www.acoustica.org.uk/t/63/63hacks.html)
I can recommend this tweak as a lite version of installing a "superclock"...and much cheaper.
Cheers
Slightly deviant
I can't speak for the 6000, but have a lot of experience with the various CD63's.
The KI mods are for the most part fiddling at the edges of audiophilia and do nothing to address the fundamental performance limiting traits of all the 63's, including the KI Sig.
I ran the KIS for years and still rate it as an excellent player, capable of showing a clean heel to most of the competition at several times the price, but not in its standard form.
The toroidal transformer of the KIS is worth having, so in this case modding a KIS makes sense, but as Thorsten says, there is a good market in these and they do hold their value. When optimized though it's possible you'd never want to sell it 😉
I still partly regret selling mine.
Andy.
I can't speak for the 6000, but have a lot of experience with the various CD63's.
The KI mods are for the most part fiddling at the edges of audiophilia and do nothing to address the fundamental performance limiting traits of all the 63's, including the KI Sig.
I ran the KIS for years and still rate it as an excellent player, capable of showing a clean heel to most of the competition at several times the price, but not in its standard form.
The toroidal transformer of the KIS is worth having, so in this case modding a KIS makes sense, but as Thorsten says, there is a good market in these and they do hold their value. When optimized though it's possible you'd never want to sell it 😉
I still partly regret selling mine.
Andy.
Whilst I agree they are not cheap, they are a business and as a consequence you can't analyse the cost based on DIY criteria.
The markup on everything they sell is huge, but that's primarily because of the inherent problems of providing low-volume specialist services vs. the balance sheet's bottom line.
Andy.
Audiocom stuff
In reply to the post about audiocom. I have no affiliation with them whatsoever. I happened across their site and after reading reviews and talking to them I bought a superclock 2 which I think is extremely good value. I haven't tried other peoples clocks but with the player now I think I would be hard pushed to find a better player for under £1000. I have some PMC FB1 speakers and a Marantz 6010KI amp and the system sounds great now. The next tweak will be to replace some capacitors in the CD6000 with Black Gates to clean up the sound even more.
In reply to the post about audiocom. I have no affiliation with them whatsoever. I happened across their site and after reading reviews and talking to them I bought a superclock 2 which I think is extremely good value. I haven't tried other peoples clocks but with the player now I think I would be hard pushed to find a better player for under £1000. I have some PMC FB1 speakers and a Marantz 6010KI amp and the system sounds great now. The next tweak will be to replace some capacitors in the CD6000 with Black Gates to clean up the sound even more.
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