Could someone share info about best match integrated amplifier tube or SS or D class which match with MAOP10 driver.
What system context -enclosure, room size, material, preferences etc.?
Generally I prefer solid state for speakers that are not designed / intended for use with high output impedance amplification. In an ideal world, I'd probably have a McIntosh or Pass integrated, but since I currently earn £5700 a year with zero chance of ever finding proper employment, that's just a fantasy. I do have a pair of Temple Audio class D monoblocks though which are very good for the money; the KJF Audio hypex based amps are also good, as are the pricier Cambridge Audio offerings.
Generally I prefer solid state for speakers that are not designed / intended for use with high output impedance amplification. In an ideal world, I'd probably have a McIntosh or Pass integrated, but since I currently earn £5700 a year with zero chance of ever finding proper employment, that's just a fantasy. I do have a pair of Temple Audio class D monoblocks though which are very good for the money; the KJF Audio hypex based amps are also good, as are the pricier Cambridge Audio offerings.
+1 SS, my friend suggest to try Single ended A class amplifier for full range (MAOP). Now use Hegel H200
I use my mark audio drives (10.3 and CHN110) with all kind of amps, and class A or AB works best. They all use the same kind of motor so they are very comparable (including the MAOP i think). The difference in the different drivers is the suspension, the frame and mainly the cone.
It's less sensitive than most fullrange drivers to amps, but a relative highish Rout gives still the best result. I use a Prima Luna Prologue 4 (EL34 tubes in class AB), Pass ACA (class A Mosfet) and a Marantz PM5004 (class AB mosfet) amp now. Class D eats a bit bass and make the driver sound less lively due to the low Rout (high damping factor) but it's not a big issue like with many other fullrange drivers. So in general they are very tollerant towards different type of amplifiers.
If money and other constraints was not an issue i would probally use a class A transistor amp like the First Watt Vfet amps or a push pull tube amp like my Prima Luna (but maybe a bigger model, and integrated, not the older pure power amp i have).
In general it need about 15 to 30w on 8R, but can easely handle 50w (the sound will go bad, but the driver won't break).
It's less sensitive than most fullrange drivers to amps, but a relative highish Rout gives still the best result. I use a Prima Luna Prologue 4 (EL34 tubes in class AB), Pass ACA (class A Mosfet) and a Marantz PM5004 (class AB mosfet) amp now. Class D eats a bit bass and make the driver sound less lively due to the low Rout (high damping factor) but it's not a big issue like with many other fullrange drivers. So in general they are very tollerant towards different type of amplifiers.
If money and other constraints was not an issue i would probally use a class A transistor amp like the First Watt Vfet amps or a push pull tube amp like my Prima Luna (but maybe a bigger model, and integrated, not the older pure power amp i have).
In general it need about 15 to 30w on 8R, but can easely handle 50w (the sound will go bad, but the driver won't break).
I used the MAOP10 with the following amps, and I think that amps under $1,000 are sufficient.
*TUBE AMP
Softone Model8(300B single, 8W)
Triode VP300BD(300B palla single KIT, 20W)
KT120 single(DIY, 18W)
*ANALOG AMP
DENON PMA390IV(50W)
MARANZ PM5004(40W)
SONY TA-F555ESL(100W)
*DIGITAL AMP
Nmode X-PM7(1bit digital, 14W)
Nmode X-PW1 mk2(1bit digital, 17W)
NuPrime IDA-8(A+D class, 100W)
NuPrime STA-9(A+D class, 120W)
others(chinese cheap D-class amp)
It want 20W output at tube amps and 100W at analog & digital amps.
The recommended amp is the NuPrime IDA-8.
The amplifier section has enough power and quality.
The DAC section also has high sound quality and exceeds TOPPING D90SE.
*TUBE AMP
Softone Model8(300B single, 8W)
Triode VP300BD(300B palla single KIT, 20W)
KT120 single(DIY, 18W)
*ANALOG AMP
DENON PMA390IV(50W)
MARANZ PM5004(40W)
SONY TA-F555ESL(100W)
*DIGITAL AMP
Nmode X-PM7(1bit digital, 14W)
Nmode X-PW1 mk2(1bit digital, 17W)
NuPrime IDA-8(A+D class, 100W)
NuPrime STA-9(A+D class, 120W)
others(chinese cheap D-class amp)
It want 20W output at tube amps and 100W at analog & digital amps.
The recommended amp is the NuPrime IDA-8.
The amplifier section has enough power and quality.
The DAC section also has high sound quality and exceeds TOPPING D90SE.
Attachments
Softone Model 8 has Volume control, I can connect DAC directly to AMP and control volume. What is your opinion about Softone Model 8 is it enough power to drive MAOP.
Dear vrbbra,
The tube amp can be used at full volume because it has low distortion at maximum volume, but the Softone Model 8 (8W + 8W) and MAOP10 (86.5dB / w.m) cannot output 100dB, so the volume will be insufficient.
Also, with a cheap analog & digital amplifier with 40W to 50W, the feeling of distortion at maximum volume is large and it cannot be used at full volume, so the power will also be insufficient.
The tube amp can be used at full volume because it has low distortion at maximum volume, but the Softone Model 8 (8W + 8W) and MAOP10 (86.5dB / w.m) cannot output 100dB, so the volume will be insufficient.
Also, with a cheap analog & digital amplifier with 40W to 50W, the feeling of distortion at maximum volume is large and it cannot be used at full volume, so the power will also be insufficient.
Pass yes, Macintosh No.
Who’s Class D modules in your Temples? Some of the new Class D are very good. I have a little one for my breifcase system with µMar-Ken6.
You want a good amplifier. The MAOP will show every failing. If the amplifier has a higher output impedance you want an enclosue (like FHXL or Pensil) where it does not mind the highish Rout.
You do not need a lot of power. A quality amplifier of any class can work well.
What kind of budget? What kind of taste?
If you are into diy, a chip amp with an LM or a pre-built Class D module. Class A amplifiers, in my experience, offer serious performance for budget to not-so projects (there are many). One could take a Pass ACA (or a pair) or ACA mini + the ACP+ and build into a single box. Nelson built me an ACA mini and i swapped it in instead of the SIT-3 and it was surprisingly close.
Class AB integrated are all over the place (chips or discreet). Look for simple, well executed, only a pair of output devices. Class A are harder to find. Class D are becoming more common, ften with digital frontends built-in.
dave
I see people are listig examples: i have, and hope to keep, LM3875 chip amp, pair of ACA, ACA mini, dual mono MOSFET Class AB (classic, but tweaked, Sears brand), Class A EL84 triode. The SIT-3 will likely go, it is too valuable to hang onto and with the VFET it won’t be missed much. and the little 3118(?) Class D amp. And 2 of 4x100 4Ω class D for subwoofer use.
dave
dave
Good question. I used to know but I can't recall off-hand, will see if I can find it in my records. Whatever it is -it's a heck of a good implementation. Best non-hypex class D I've heard to date. If funds ever permitted (ha!) I'd love to try the linear PSU's that John now offers to go with them.
It's true that class D has become on a level that the difference is pure taste, but i never had luck with class d on my Mark Audio drivers, i had a very good SMSL SA36 (that i use in my lab now with old Philips drivres), an NAD M22 that i had on loan and a pair of Hypex Ncore 400 kits that i assembled on them, but i did not like it that much. On other drivers it works perfect (only no colouration, what is taste depending good or bad), but not on Mark Audio drivers. But maybe that is subjective also.
LM chip based class AB amps can be very good that is true, but watch out because there are tons of bad implementations arround.
LM chip based class AB amps can be very good that is true, but watch out because there are tons of bad implementations arround.
I have a Topping PA5 in my system now. It is so clear and clean that this amp would be tough to beat at any price. My ACA is a pleasant sounding amp given its limited power but sadly pales next to the PA5. The PA5 seems pretty neutral without sounding dry or clinical and seems perfectly happy driving both full range speakers and 2-way speakers. I originally had it matched with the Topping E50 DAC which is also wonderfully clear and clean but this DAC as great as it is has one serious weakness. It is strapped with 5 volt power source so that it can be powered by computers. As much as I tried connecting high amp 5v power supplies to this DAC, the system sounded wonderfully detailed and realistic with no lungs. I have since connected my older SMSL VMV D1 DAC with a huge power cord to the Topping PA5 and I now have all of the dynamic slam one could wish for. My system has lungs again and life is good. I am now very skeptical of purchasing any amp or DAC with a 5 volt power source. Meaty power supplies with large power cords make a huge difference. Implementation is critical like planet10 says.
That Topping is one of the better class D amps arround, that is true. I heared it and put it on my list (and i'm very critical towards class D). Also the measurements of ASR are very good of this amp. And it's relative cheap.