Is this a good Idea guys? Is the Monacor weaker in power than the Emit cause for what I know I must place an equal ohm value and equal or bigger power ribbon tweeter in for the tweeter to work in sauch a configuration or it will burn!
Try the new Dayton AMTs
The most expensive is the AMT1-4 seems to be the most performing, but it's 4 Ω.
I have the mini-8 which performs quite well.
I owned a pair of Infinity at the end of the '80s.
Since the emit is 8 Ω you can replace it with any kind of tweeter of the same Z
The most expensive is the AMT1-4 seems to be the most performing, but it's 4 Ω.
I have the mini-8 which performs quite well.
I owned a pair of Infinity at the end of the '80s.
Since the emit is 8 Ω you can replace it with any kind of tweeter of the same Z
Most up i am able to go 60Euros for a pair of ribbon or non ribboon that would suit these for now! i dont really want to go 400 USD for these speakers only for the tweeters, the are just not that good I think! So if I understand i can place in eaven a dome tweeter of 8 ohm that being the Z you mentioned! If still here since I still have in mind getting a pair of Monacor ribbon 30/60W 8ohm would they pass?
Yes, the Monacor could suit but: the chassis is made of plastic ( you get what you pay for ) so you'd better close the hole from the rear; I think that it won't make the enclosure air-tight because the emit has a metallic flange which assures it better...
The Monacor exhibits 98 dB sensitivity so you have to cut about 10 dB with an attenuation net or use an L-Pad ( instead of the 5 W potentiometer ).
The Monacor exhibits 98 dB sensitivity so you have to cut about 10 dB with an attenuation net or use an L-Pad ( instead of the 5 W potentiometer ).
What would be more recomended? I would still like to use the potentiometer from the back on them! Also my humble state of personal knowlege will make me ask if a schematic for the to be mounted components with the tweeters would be possible to be posted here as a drawing! I am ordering tomorow the tweeters!
WHich ?
If you order the RBt ( other than having a waveguide ...)
You'll have to reduce a lot the power to it, 'cos it absorbs less power to have the same output of the emit >it has a higher sensitivity
So you have to calculate a resistor net to reduce the voltage arriving at the tw-
Once you find a good balance the potentiometer is in excess.
I suggest, as usual, to put the crossover out of the cabinet.
Still, you'll have to disassemble all the units ( also the x-over board 😛 )
as I said before, if you make a closed back hole with sufficient space ( depth of the Rbt, and you can solder directly the wires to it and make them exit from 2 holes, one each ) you'll be sure you'll have no air leaks.
At this point, making also another "patch" to cover the crossover hole, it's fairly natural 🙂
Ok to take it step by step:
1. Short said Emit is about 91db and Monacor RBT is 98db
2. I get that I have to put a resistor on the TW so that I bring the power equal as it was to the Emits reproduction cause the crossover was designed for it
3. I understand that I would have to put the potentiometer on the existing cabinets to max than place a resistor that would confortably settle the tweeter
- I do not want to get the Crossovers out of the cab, all looks so fine and clean.
the dismenteling of the crossovers scares me, as for the air leaks no worries(hot glue gun, self adhesive rubber tape and so on luckily).
- Since help me God I would not have to remove the crossovers I would not have to cover the crossover holes.
Here are some pics so that makes this entire thing more fair.
1. Short said Emit is about 91db and Monacor RBT is 98db
2. I get that I have to put a resistor on the TW so that I bring the power equal as it was to the Emits reproduction cause the crossover was designed for it
3. I understand that I would have to put the potentiometer on the existing cabinets to max than place a resistor that would confortably settle the tweeter
- I do not want to get the Crossovers out of the cab, all looks so fine and clean.
the dismenteling of the crossovers scares me, as for the air leaks no worries(hot glue gun, self adhesive rubber tape and so on luckily).
- Since help me God I would not have to remove the crossovers I would not have to cover the crossover holes.
Here are some pics so that makes this entire thing more fair.
Attachments
Oh, got it now! Scared me alittle so that these are exotics! Ok, the RBT-95 has sufficient space to fit in, so had the Emit K. The crossovers realy do not have tocome out no? If yes why? For the 4500hz necesary minimum crossover acceptance of the RBT-95 than the 4300hz stepping of the Infinity crossover? Say I wont be able to get the measuring kit with 1m microphone, what should the resistors choosing criteria be expanded, what shall I do to get theyr power equaled to the Emits in these units? The magnets of the RBT-95 fit very well in these bodies as they are the same size. Much sealing won't come in question cause I'll put a flange underneath so as under tweeters on normal speakers an that will absorb much of the vibration. I will allso apply some thin sponge like sheet on the bacm of the magnet to absorb much of the coming pressure from the bass of the woofers. Anything else? Am I forgetting anything?
Hi,
If you have a pot on the back for tweeter level simply fit them and use it.
FWIW in practical terms they are allegedly 93dB, not 98dB, believable.
rgds, sreten.
If you have a pot on the back for tweeter level simply fit them and use it.
FWIW in practical terms they are allegedly 93dB, not 98dB, believable.
rgds, sreten.
But how will I deal with the crossovers not to burn the TWs cause they are 5000hz requiering for xos and Infinity are 4300hz step-up xos? How about power are they close one to another?
Last edited:
Hi,
With more attenuation and more power handling they will be fine.
(But probably still won't take clipping abuse that fried the originals.)
rgds, sreten.
With more attenuation and more power handling they will be fine.
(But probably still won't take clipping abuse that fried the originals.)
rgds, sreten.
Last edited:
When supposing they fried cause I am not quite shure of that they were running on Technics SE-9060 70w@8ohm true to be said at low power! To mention they came that day with the courier 150km distance from to my home, maybe shake and shock to the 25yrs old material told it's word uppon it? Anyway now they will be listened on my Yamaha AX-1070 but most of the time not exceeding 3W! Is that a problem to it?
Don't fear about that 700 Hz difference 'cos the frequency scale is logarithmic
and it's not the same like 70-770 Hz 🙄🙂
and it's not the same like 70-770 Hz 🙄🙂
I guess they can go down to 4000 from what I read safely can't they? If there is a go than tomorow I am ordering them, and till Fryday I am putting them in. Thanks! And sorry!
Last edited:
Hi,
Your post in another thread indicates tweeter level adjustment is very minimal.
You will need a L-pad on the tweeter to bring it down to nominal level. What
L-pad you need is hard to say as reported sensitivity is 93 to 98 dB.
rgds, sreten.
Your post in another thread indicates tweeter level adjustment is very minimal.
You will need a L-pad on the tweeter to bring it down to nominal level. What
L-pad you need is hard to say as reported sensitivity is 93 to 98 dB.
rgds, sreten.
Ok but freq is still ok, no? 4200hz xo freq. Can I order something typical to come with them and afterward calibrate the levels? in 2 weeks I will have some friend come to me and make the mic. test to 1m etc but till then I think there is something, no? to bring down the situation. By what kind of L Pad do you mean:
Pot with res or pot with cap. by what I have seen by googleing or what would be my choosing cryteria?
Pot with res or pot with cap. by what I have seen by googleing or what would be my choosing cryteria?
Last edited:
- Status
- Not open for further replies.