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Hello All! I am a hobbyist electronics fan. I have made many simple circuits over the past 15-20 years. Most of my projects have involved using 3.3v or 5v batteries/micro-controllers.
I came up with a concept to build a battery powered ghetto blaster that is portable enough that I can take to outdoor events/parties, but still has enough power for a good time too. I read all about the Boominator and that design brought me to these forums. What I settled on is a 12V SLA battery powered audio system. Most of the components I am using are designed for car/boat sound systems. This project is not trying to compete with the Boominator on efficiency or in any other way. My design is much more casual and designed as much for aesthetics as sound quality.
I would say that while I have built circuits that use most of these individual concepts/components before, I have never built a project of this scale and with this many of those concepts interacting with one another. I also have never worked with a 12V DC circuit before either, which is a bit more intimidating because of the added level of danger.
I tend to be a cautious person, and I would never expect my amateur designs to be anywhere near perfect. Because safety is something that I am really concerned with, I was hoping some of the experts here at DIYAudio would be able to critique/improve my design to ensure it works safely and properly.
The NE555 timer circuit is a one-shot type of configuration which is supposed to play a short (0.75 second) sound when the unit is powered on.
If there is any clarification needed on any of the components let me know.
On top of making sure that my design is safe, I have a few questions as well:
1) With the B500K and A10K volume control resistors, does it matter which ground pin 1 is connected to?
2) I understand the concept of the pull-down resistor for MOSFETs, but I don't think I fully understand gate resistors. Would gate resistors be necessary for my setup? If so, what would be appropriate values of resistors to use?
3) Because I am using 2 amplifiers with 1 being used as an optional bass booster, is there a way to make sure that the AVN-1730 receiver maintains power while transitioning between the two "on" positions of that DPDT on-off-on switch? Documentation on this receiver is not that great, the best I have seen is something that says it will not use more than 200ma at 12v. I was thinking that using capacitors would work, but I am not as familiar with them.
Thank you for the help!
Hello All! I am a hobbyist electronics fan. I have made many simple circuits over the past 15-20 years. Most of my projects have involved using 3.3v or 5v batteries/micro-controllers.
I came up with a concept to build a battery powered ghetto blaster that is portable enough that I can take to outdoor events/parties, but still has enough power for a good time too. I read all about the Boominator and that design brought me to these forums. What I settled on is a 12V SLA battery powered audio system. Most of the components I am using are designed for car/boat sound systems. This project is not trying to compete with the Boominator on efficiency or in any other way. My design is much more casual and designed as much for aesthetics as sound quality.
I would say that while I have built circuits that use most of these individual concepts/components before, I have never built a project of this scale and with this many of those concepts interacting with one another. I also have never worked with a 12V DC circuit before either, which is a bit more intimidating because of the added level of danger.
I tend to be a cautious person, and I would never expect my amateur designs to be anywhere near perfect. Because safety is something that I am really concerned with, I was hoping some of the experts here at DIYAudio would be able to critique/improve my design to ensure it works safely and properly.
The NE555 timer circuit is a one-shot type of configuration which is supposed to play a short (0.75 second) sound when the unit is powered on.
If there is any clarification needed on any of the components let me know.
On top of making sure that my design is safe, I have a few questions as well:
1) With the B500K and A10K volume control resistors, does it matter which ground pin 1 is connected to?
2) I understand the concept of the pull-down resistor for MOSFETs, but I don't think I fully understand gate resistors. Would gate resistors be necessary for my setup? If so, what would be appropriate values of resistors to use?
3) Because I am using 2 amplifiers with 1 being used as an optional bass booster, is there a way to make sure that the AVN-1730 receiver maintains power while transitioning between the two "on" positions of that DPDT on-off-on switch? Documentation on this receiver is not that great, the best I have seen is something that says it will not use more than 200ma at 12v. I was thinking that using capacitors would work, but I am not as familiar with them.
Thank you for the help!
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My criticism is why choose lead-acid? They are heavy and a pain to maintain. LiFePO4 (with built-in BMS) would be my choice. 🙂
It's hard to argue against your point. The only reason I am going with SLA is because I have used them before with a solar array. The solar charger I have
advertises that it's designed for SLA. I would definitely like to explore upgrading to lithium batteries in the future, though. It would be nice to give it a voltage boost at the same time.
My cabinet/case is almost finished, I'll post some pictures with my progress.
advertises that it's designed for SLA. I would definitely like to explore upgrading to lithium batteries in the future, though. It would be nice to give it a voltage boost at the same time.
My cabinet/case is almost finished, I'll post some pictures with my progress.
Good Job.. Go for it.
It's enough if you are satisfied with it..that's the most important.. Make this neat and Clean.
Are you sure that you need 40AMPs and 30 Amps Fuses to secure all this. I thought this might be quite a lot. If over-fused and there is a reason that the fuse should be activated, meaning if there is a reason that it has to blow, and it don't blow, the next part which takes less Amps to work, will blow instead, finally you will end up with a destroyed amp but the fuse is still good... This is not the way it should be.
I have no idea how much power this chips there can take.. but I'm sure with 12V would be a mere of 3 - 4 Amp when it comes high, unless you have a Voltage Triple or similar..
I just looked at the specs of the TPA3116 one of the Features of it is, that it uses LOW AMPERE to drive..]
Here a Copy of the Texas Instruments TPA3116 Features
Wide Voltage Range: 4.5 V to 26 V
Efficient Class-D Operation
It's enough if you are satisfied with it..that's the most important.. Make this neat and Clean.
Are you sure that you need 40AMPs and 30 Amps Fuses to secure all this. I thought this might be quite a lot. If over-fused and there is a reason that the fuse should be activated, meaning if there is a reason that it has to blow, and it don't blow, the next part which takes less Amps to work, will blow instead, finally you will end up with a destroyed amp but the fuse is still good... This is not the way it should be.
I have no idea how much power this chips there can take.. but I'm sure with 12V would be a mere of 3 - 4 Amp when it comes high, unless you have a Voltage Triple or similar..
I just looked at the specs of the TPA3116 one of the Features of it is, that it uses LOW AMPERE to drive..]
Here a Copy of the Texas Instruments TPA3116 Features
Wide Voltage Range: 4.5 V to 26 V
Efficient Class-D Operation
- >90% Power Efficiency Combined With Low Idle Loss Greatly Reduces Heat Sink Size
- Advanced Modulation Schemes
12 Volts ain't Danger.. !
As long as you don't let it blow up into your Face.,
And if it blows then the Blow is real short and over fast as long you do not use a Car Battery which can deliver 200 and more AMPS for a certain Time..*then you can get yourself a job at Indian Reservation to make smoke signals..*
Just joking.. don't take it serious..
It has happen one time that I smoked that way with a Car Battery.. you can not run fast enough.. But again, it's rather a short thing.. also if you charge a Car Battery then you use max 10% of the rated power to charge.,, So if this Battery has 200Amps then a 20 Amp fuse is fare enough ..Unless you use Quick Charge, but I doubt that with Solar Energy you will be able to Quick charge what ever Battery you might have there..
Still I thought that your circuit is OVER-FUSED.. 12X40Amp = 480 Watts, that's the time the FUSE will blow..
The amplifier delivers max 50Watts so then a MASTER FUSE of 5 AMPS is more than enough..
Just as an example.. My Class A I build drawing up to 5 ampere per Channel from the second I switch it on.. it's Secured with a 6.3 Amp fuse because as the amp gets hot it tends to draw more current when switched off and on again until it has stabilized itself.. this will take max 5 Seconds, and that's why it has 6.3Amp Fast Blow Fuses.. if the amp shorts out then there are some 25Ampere floating and this will sure destroy almost every part which is in the Output Path..
That Amp works with +- 40 Volts.
Just a thought as I wrote in my other post..
And again go for it.. because this is what it's all about.. to build what you have in mind..
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Thanks for the reply hpro. The fuse values were really pretty arbitrary when I picked them. You are totally right that the fuses are too high and would be basically worthless. I think I fell a bit for the marketing department of the weird Chinese place I bought the amps from. The tpa3116 I am using has 2 chips and they claimed it could do 120 watts (I'm sure that's BS, but I haven't tested the power consumption with my multimeter to get an idea of how much power is actually being used). The other amp is supposed to be 60 watts I think. So I thought "oh, 120+60 is 180 watts, so that's 15 amps at 12v. So I'll pick a fuse with a value that's higher than that." I'll do some more tests with the amps and figure out a more appropriate value. I bet you are right that a 5-10 amp fuse for the main circuit and <5 for all the other crap would be good.
Instead of believing the SELLER of that CHIP- just download the DATASHEET of Texas Instruments.
The 3116 will deliver 50 Watts @26Volts and not at 12Volts..Even the Chips is bridged
Here this is the DATASHEET I found. Might take a look at. It seems to be an "old Version" but I think Values won't have changed that much..
TPA3116D2 pdf, TPA3116D2 description, TPA3116D2 datasheets, TPA3116D2 view ::: ALLDATASHEET :::
Also check the Fuse for USB, it's also to large.. I think a 1 - 3 AMP fuse for USB Port is more than enough.. As this is the FEEDING OR Distributor to USB and not the USB itself..
Usually 500mw is enough. At least this is what in Computer USB is used..
And good BUILD..
The 3116 will deliver 50 Watts @26Volts and not at 12Volts..Even the Chips is bridged
Here this is the DATASHEET I found. Might take a look at. It seems to be an "old Version" but I think Values won't have changed that much..
TPA3116D2 pdf, TPA3116D2 description, TPA3116D2 datasheets, TPA3116D2 view ::: ALLDATASHEET :::
Also check the Fuse for USB, it's also to large.. I think a 1 - 3 AMP fuse for USB Port is more than enough.. As this is the FEEDING OR Distributor to USB and not the USB itself..
Usually 500mw is enough. At least this is what in Computer USB is used..
And good BUILD..