Sorry if this is a FAQ. I would like to get opinions on the choice between Hypex and ColdAmp modules (or any other brand that I should consider). No holds barred. Anything that I should know from a technical, musical, practical, or other standpoint.
I decided that for various reasons, I am not ready to try rolling my own Class-D module. My application is to build a powered speaker for musical instrument use. Right now I play string bass and some electric bass, and a roughly 150 Watt amp is more than enough for the work that I do. But I am trying to lighten the load by replacing a lead sled with a nice slick Class-D module.
I decided that for various reasons, I am not ready to try rolling my own Class-D module. My application is to build a powered speaker for musical instrument use. Right now I play string bass and some electric bass, and a roughly 150 Watt amp is more than enough for the work that I do. But I am trying to lighten the load by replacing a lead sled with a nice slick Class-D module.
Coldamp has an SMPS. ColdAmp is also creating a 800w module to be released soon. 
😀
NewClassd.com is another option. Take a look at their Quality procedures at their site. Amazing torture tests before shipping a module.
Hypex claimed to be creating an SMPS at one time. I don't know where this went.
Coldamp will make you an SMPS for any module.
Seeing as the power supply is a key link to the quality and reliability of module, I'd just stick with coldamp. I hope to buy some coldamp modules soon.
😀NewClassd.com is another option. Take a look at their Quality procedures at their site. Amazing torture tests before shipping a module.
Hypex claimed to be creating an SMPS at one time. I don't know where this went.
Coldamp will make you an SMPS for any module.
Seeing as the power supply is a key link to the quality and reliability of module, I'd just stick with coldamp. I hope to buy some coldamp modules soon.
I also play upright and electric bass. I recently assembled a simple mono UCD400 prototype with a 500VA toroidal xformer, Hypex softstart and 15K uf of capacitance per rail. I've used it with the upright (Realist and Underwood) on jazz gigs around Seattle through both an 8 ohm Acme B1 and a 4 ohm Acme B2 (separately, not together!). I felt it sounded more solid than the Acoustic Image Clarus, which I found easy to overload with the Realist. Next step is to spring for the Coldamp SMPS and make a really lightweight rig. Then, on to the UCD700! Reliability has been my priority throughout.
fdeck - I used the UCD400 with a modified version of your BBBB (single channel, delete Baxandall, add HP filter and 2 band para eq). Thanks for making the circuit and construction details available to all.
fdeck - I used the UCD400 with a modified version of your BBBB (single channel, delete Baxandall, add HP filter and 2 band para eq). Thanks for making the circuit and construction details available to all.
Hello all.
I am also a happy user of Coldamp modules (first, BP4078 with LPS30 linear supply, and recently I moved to their SPS80 switching supply).
Sound is transparent, with tight and deep bass. Noise floor is extremely low. The modules are rudged, full of features and very convenient to install, with very nice documentation and application notes. For me, excellent value for the money as compared to others.
I must say that Coldamp stuff are also extremely helpful and nice to treat. They can even provide custom-voltage versions of their switching power supplies, even with single-output, making them useful for our old "Gainclones", other Class-D products, etc.
BTW, I eventually found this...
http://www.oslo-audio-society.com/coldamp.html
Unfortunately, it is in Norwegian. May anyone translate it, please (not with an automatic translator, please, I already tried with awful results 🙂 ?
I am also a happy user of Coldamp modules (first, BP4078 with LPS30 linear supply, and recently I moved to their SPS80 switching supply).
Sound is transparent, with tight and deep bass. Noise floor is extremely low. The modules are rudged, full of features and very convenient to install, with very nice documentation and application notes. For me, excellent value for the money as compared to others.
I must say that Coldamp stuff are also extremely helpful and nice to treat. They can even provide custom-voltage versions of their switching power supplies, even with single-output, making them useful for our old "Gainclones", other Class-D products, etc.
BTW, I eventually found this...
http://www.oslo-audio-society.com/coldamp.html
Unfortunately, it is in Norwegian. May anyone translate it, please (not with an automatic translator, please, I already tried with awful results 🙂 ?
Thanks for the kind words! Did you adapt the printed circuit pattern? Choose different op amps, or other mods?doublestop said:
I assembled it on perfboard using lowly TL072s (no offense!) I had lying around. Power comes from an 18V wallwart LM317-regulated to 15V. Overkill, yes, but I have an irrational fear of battery-powered gear. And, I have a box full of scrounged wallwarts begging to be used. I'd love to get your pcb from ExpressPCB and wire it up right. Someday...
Ted Enderle
Ted Enderle
Hi,
Yes, and unfortunately they did it wrong! 🙁
While going for the professional-grade PowerCon (Neutrik) mains plug, they preferred the more beautiful one over the correct one...
They placed an output on the unit and used an output jack to deliver mains input!
Whatever the build quality, they likely didn't go for safety and sound quality in this project.
Just my
,
Sebastian.
PS:
The correct PowerCon input plug would be blue, which doesn't seem to match the brushed metal surface.
The way they built it, the unit is still safe from touching mains contacts, but the wire isn't. It can be made touch-proof, but only if you build the mains wire yourself (or buy theirs) and never go through any agency test and certification...
Yes, and unfortunately they did it wrong! 🙁
While going for the professional-grade PowerCon (Neutrik) mains plug, they preferred the more beautiful one over the correct one...
They placed an output on the unit and used an output jack to deliver mains input!
Whatever the build quality, they likely didn't go for safety and sound quality in this project.
Just my
,Sebastian.
PS:
The correct PowerCon input plug would be blue, which doesn't seem to match the brushed metal surface.
The way they built it, the unit is still safe from touching mains contacts, but the wire isn't. It can be made touch-proof, but only if you build the mains wire yourself (or buy theirs) and never go through any agency test and certification...
Ok, although this particular implementation may not be the most correct in terms of safety, we are talking about sonic performance, and I bet this aspect is absolutely not affected by the choose of the mains input connector.
Anyone can translate it, anyway?
Anyone can translate it, anyway?
Pierre said:
I can try
Tree guys’ reviewed these amps – in short:
Tor:
Coldamp replaces tube stuff: Aranov 100W mono blocks (with 6550)
Very positive first impression – could be described as dynamic and relaxed.
Piano on some Diana Krall’s albums seams better on Coldamp then Aranov’s
Bass
Played a lot of bass heavy music, this seems to be the major force whit these amps and they where better then the tube mono blocks.
Midrange:
Previously class D amps for example: ICE has been too “grey” in this area. Not so much with Coldamp. Did not miss the tube amps here but………
Negative:
It did not delivered soundstage – meaning there no 3D depth in the sound picture. Music seems to be in 2D. The reviewer praised the Coldamps as mid-fi equipment. But as a personal preference: it couldn’t not compare with high-end because the lack of 3D soundstage!
HC :
Very positive, special bass and top end performance. Midrange could not compete with Audio Aero tube amp.
KW:
Again first impressions were very positive – and wonder why anybody should spend more money on amplifiers 🙂
They drove my Sonus Faber Cremona with ease, but in compare too Karan 270 they lack body.
Thanks for the translation, Baard.
Well, our professional customers (including recording studio and classic music hall installers), and also a lot of audiophile DIYers don't classify our amplifiers precisely as Mid-Fi 😉
Regarding the 3D soundstage: that depends mainly on channel separation and hence on the setup, more than in the amplifier module circuitry. Given that the autor used monoblocks (based on 1 BP4078 and 1 SPS80 supply each), the channel separation is excellent in the power amplifiers, so there may be a problem with its signal source or path that creates some crosstalk, hence reducing 3D imaging ??? That's my opinion.
Well, our professional customers (including recording studio and classic music hall installers), and also a lot of audiophile DIYers don't classify our amplifiers precisely as Mid-Fi 😉
Regarding the 3D soundstage: that depends mainly on channel separation and hence on the setup, more than in the amplifier module circuitry. Given that the autor used monoblocks (based on 1 BP4078 and 1 SPS80 supply each), the channel separation is excellent in the power amplifiers, so there may be a problem with its signal source or path that creates some crosstalk, hence reducing 3D imaging ??? That's my opinion.
Hello again
Regarding your comments on reduced 3D and signal source/path.
In Tor’s setup I think this picture give a good idea over the equipment used in the test. Signal source is Musical Fidelity CD-Pre24 and PS Audio Powerplant
Hope it is ok that I cut and past from Oslo audio society's web site.
Regarding your comments on reduced 3D and signal source/path.
In Tor’s setup I think this picture give a good idea over the equipment used in the test. Signal source is Musical Fidelity CD-Pre24 and PS Audio Powerplant
Hope it is ok that I cut and past from Oslo audio society's web site.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I think this kind of setup is really not healthy for good imaging. The side wall is so close to the speaker that early reflection seem to be very close to the original sound path. Don't know what that other thing on the side is, but even with absorption material, the thickness would need to be about half the wavelength of the lowest frequency of concern to be effective.Baard said:
Maybe so – but if you have 3D with the Aranov’s it cant just disappear when you substitute these with Coldamps in a mono block setup.
My aim with this picture was to emphasis on the source that I think is more then good enough.
My aim with this picture was to emphasis on the source that I think is more then good enough.
Mmmm. a bit strange.
I am using 2 x Coldamp BP4078 amplifiers sharing a SPS80 PSU and the imaging is superb. With monoblocks it should be even better...
I also think that this has more to do with the setup than with the design of the amplifier modules itself, don't you agree? I mean, 3D imaging is related to stereo, not to any characteristic of the individual channel.
I agree in that the quality of the components seems good, but perhaps there is some issue with the room acoustics, wiring, etc.
In any case, this is a bit subjective...
I am using 2 x Coldamp BP4078 amplifiers sharing a SPS80 PSU and the imaging is superb. With monoblocks it should be even better...
I also think that this has more to do with the setup than with the design of the amplifier modules itself, don't you agree? I mean, 3D imaging is related to stereo, not to any characteristic of the individual channel.
I agree in that the quality of the components seems good, but perhaps there is some issue with the room acoustics, wiring, etc.
In any case, this is a bit subjective...
My point is, how can one evaluate imaging if the room arrangement is not such to provide for good imaging? I'm sure the equipment must be good. But good equipment cannot reach it's full potential without proper room acoustics. Another explanation is the personal preference differ, which looking at the room, one might wonder what hte reviewer preferences are compared to our preferences.
I agree this is subjective – I just gave a short resume off the review. The author emphasis that from a subjective point of view soundstage was on off the key parameter he valued most. So if this is not high-end, the next logical step is very good mid-fi.
But form another point of view, is there any tube user out there that will change his be loved tubes to a reasonable priced class-D?
Back to the source – I have the same MF CD-Pre, but I am a bit disappointed over MF that they still uses 5532/34 Op-amps in the output stage. I don’t know if the author has change to odder/better op-amps.
But form another point of view, is there any tube user out there that will change his be loved tubes to a reasonable priced class-D?
Back to the source – I have the same MF CD-Pre, but I am a bit disappointed over MF that they still uses 5532/34 Op-amps in the output stage. I don’t know if the author has change to odder/better op-amps.
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