Hi! I don't have a table saw, and I don't like doing long cuts with my circular saw because they are not the straightest. So, last time I gave the lumber store a list of cuts I wanted from a 4' x 8' panel of 1/2" MDF. Most of the cuts are straight and to the dims I gave him, except one. Because of that I have a horizontal gap between the base of the speaker enclosure I'm building, and the bottom part of the back. The gap is 4" wide by approx. 1/8" tall. The speakers will be veneered or painted, don't know yet, most probably veneered.
Here are my questions:
1. If I use veneer to cover the speaker cabinet, should I just seal the gap with silicone or should I use 2-Part epoxy? I will use an iron to apply the veneer.
2. If I paint, should I use 2-Part epoxy or wood filler? Being such a large gap I don't think wood filler will work well.
What are your recommendation?
Here are my questions:
1. If I use veneer to cover the speaker cabinet, should I just seal the gap with silicone or should I use 2-Part epoxy? I will use an iron to apply the veneer.
2. If I paint, should I use 2-Part epoxy or wood filler? Being such a large gap I don't think wood filler will work well.
What are your recommendation?
What are your recommendation?
simply glue some wood, thick veneer, or something, in the place where some is missing
and then 'recut', or whatever you can manage
if already assembled, I would suggest to try and make some venner fit, to be pushed in the gap with glue
could even be small bits, one by one
simply glue some wood, thick veneer, or something, in the place where some is missing
and then 'recut', or whatever you can manage
if already assembled, I would suggest to try and make some venner fit, to be pushed in the gap with glue
could even be small bits, one by one
Being a begginer at this I had already assembled, but I believe I can cut a piece with my miter saw and make it fit...Thanks!

not sure how much is missing
just remember such pieces of wood sometimes breaks easily
btw, a sharp knife can be a very good tool 😉
not sure how much is missing
just remember such pieces of wood sometimes breaks easily
btw, a sharp knife can be a very good tool 😉
Thanks! I measured the gap, and it was 1/16" (2 mm) on one end and 1/8" (3 mm) on the other end. So, I cut a piece of 1/2" thick (13 mm) panel with those dims x 4" long (102 mm). Then I "painted" the cavity and piece of wood with glue and inserted it, it was a perfect fit and I had to tap it with a plastic mallet for it to go in. Problem solved...🙂
Bondo....
Knew this solution, and totally forgot about it. I didn't feel like going to Home Depot and paying $25.00 for Bondo, when I can buy it at almost half price from the local auto bodyshop supplies store. Hopefully I won't forget next time...Thanks!
Glue and sawdust mixed together and pushed into the smaller cracks works well also, much cheaper than Bondo!! 😉
jer 🙂
jer 🙂
Glue and sawdust mixed together and pushed into the smaller cracks works well also, much cheaper than Bondo!! 😉
jer 🙂
Great solution...I have plenty of that, as I collect it and store in a sealed contai er, to be used for household chemicals and garage oil spills...Homemade particle board.
Mix sawdust with epoxy? Wood glue doesn't always like to be sanded.
Or, better, probably, use a router to trim things flush.
Or, better, probably, use a router to trim things flush.
Using Epoxy with dawdust makes sense. I have a router, but in all honesty don't know how to use/control it. When I practice, instead of a nice cut, the wood ends up burned or with chunks missing.
epoxy/sawdust is much harder to sand than wood glue/sawdust. the epoxy softens up under the heat and clogs the sandpaper.
There are different types of epoxies
Bondo type auto body fillers are specifically engineered to be sanded / shaped - when mixed in proper hardener ratio and properly cured, clogging is far less of an issue. Wurth is a particularly finely textured and smooth filler.
Bondo type auto body fillers are specifically engineered to be sanded / shaped - when mixed in proper hardener ratio and properly cured, clogging is far less of an issue. Wurth is a particularly finely textured and smooth filler.
my bad. when I hear Epoxy, I immediately think of the clear resin. you do not want to have to sand that stuff.
epoxy/sawdust is much harder to sand than wood glue/sawdust. the epoxy softens up under the heat and clogs the sandpaper.
There are different types of epoxies
Bondo type auto body fillers are specifically engineered to be sanded / shaped - when mixed in proper hardener ratio and properly cured, clogging is far less of an issue. Wurth is a particularly finely textured and smooth filler.
I am certified in installing FRP pipe and doing FRP structural work, so I know epoxy and the different kind. Bondo is a very good solution, but there are a lot of epoxys that can be used. In my home I use one sold at the hardware store, even at Walgreens or CVS that is "brownish", it comes in a two-part syringe and it is easy to mix, no need to measure. This one is very strong and easy to sand, will not clog the sandpaper. But, Bondo is still easier to work with.
Then I "painted" the cavity and piece of wood with glue and inserted it, it was a perfect fit and I had to tap it with a plastic mallet for it to go in. Problem solved...🙂
I think that's along the lines of what I would have done. Glad it worked out.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
- Home
- Design & Build
- Construction Tips
- How to seal gaps is wood?