hi guys.
what are the ways to get lower bass with a bass-reflex box?
Are there any trics that can be generally pulled to go lower?
i'm sure you should first look at the driver. But where to go from there? does a large box always go deeper? how about the port? Is there anything the amp can do?
the sub i'm going to build should perform good below 40 hertz. it doesn't have to be a mid-bass wonder...
what are the ways to get lower bass with a bass-reflex box?
Are there any trics that can be generally pulled to go lower?
i'm sure you should first look at the driver. But where to go from there? does a large box always go deeper? how about the port? Is there anything the amp can do?
the sub i'm going to build should perform good below 40 hertz. it doesn't have to be a mid-bass wonder...
Depends on the driver, not the box... I mean, you could port to 16hz but unless you use a driver that performs well, you end up with a really poor result - looks like a ski jump from the primary driver response as you move lower, with the "jump" at tuning frequency and a rapid fall-off beyond that.
For example, I know the Adire Tempest likes a ~300L box with a port tuned to 16-17Hz.
An Adire Tumult in a 100L sealed enclosure could be close to flat below 20Hz with careful room placement - a bit of EQ guarantees it.
Part of the question becomes how good do you want your bass? Ported enclosures that low don't make my ears happy. A little EQ can shore a falling response if the driver has the excursion and the amp the power. Unless your room is really well done for bass response, EQ is possibly the only way to get really flat response.
EQ is the *only* way to get more response out of a driver that doesn't naturally do what you want it to do. So, an 8" sub is probably just not going to happen. Putting it in a huuuge box may give you an IB type alignment if you keep it sealed, which results in very clean bass, but it won't go any lower than the driver will go. If it's a really good driver with plenty of excursion and plenty of amp power, you might manage.
Pick the right driver, and it's a simple task.
C <-- enjoying flat-ish response below 16Hz
For example, I know the Adire Tempest likes a ~300L box with a port tuned to 16-17Hz.
An Adire Tumult in a 100L sealed enclosure could be close to flat below 20Hz with careful room placement - a bit of EQ guarantees it.
Part of the question becomes how good do you want your bass? Ported enclosures that low don't make my ears happy. A little EQ can shore a falling response if the driver has the excursion and the amp the power. Unless your room is really well done for bass response, EQ is possibly the only way to get really flat response.
EQ is the *only* way to get more response out of a driver that doesn't naturally do what you want it to do. So, an 8" sub is probably just not going to happen. Putting it in a huuuge box may give you an IB type alignment if you keep it sealed, which results in very clean bass, but it won't go any lower than the driver will go. If it's a really good driver with plenty of excursion and plenty of amp power, you might manage.
Pick the right driver, and it's a simple task.
C <-- enjoying flat-ish response below 16Hz
I was going to start a new thread, but it kinda fits in with this one so i'll post it here.
Is there a program that will model the excursion of a sub with a linkwitz transfrom circuit? I have the spreadsheet that models the fr, but I need to know how small I can make my box without overpowering my sub.
Is there a program that will model the excursion of a sub with a linkwitz transfrom circuit? I have the spreadsheet that models the fr, but I need to know how small I can make my box without overpowering my sub.
xplod get the pro version (beta), much better.
keyser,
www.diysubwoofers.org!
Start reading the basics. Have a look at EBS vented alignments. It uses a bigger box and a lower tuning point to get more extension, which works fine if the driver can move enough air (high excursion driver).
A sub should go well below 40 Hz. In fact a typical midbass 6.5" driver can go that low when vented. A 12" sub should easily go to 40 Hz sealed or 25 Hz and below in a bass reflect. An EBS for a high excursion 12" sub can get to a little below 20 Hz and achieve an in room response down to 15 Hz if desired. The box does need to be 50% bigger though.
keyser,
www.diysubwoofers.org!
Start reading the basics. Have a look at EBS vented alignments. It uses a bigger box and a lower tuning point to get more extension, which works fine if the driver can move enough air (high excursion driver).
A sub should go well below 40 Hz. In fact a typical midbass 6.5" driver can go that low when vented. A 12" sub should easily go to 40 Hz sealed or 25 Hz and below in a bass reflect. An EBS for a high excursion 12" sub can get to a little below 20 Hz and achieve an in room response down to 15 Hz if desired. The box does need to be 50% bigger though.
4 --15" cheap woofers.
Box built into ceiling. bottom of box is a port, or hole in the ceiling.
the woofers face into the hole, one per side. the hole is situated over the center of the speaker 'position', ie, exactly in between, for the best phase alignment, or the best point in the room close to that for resonance control.
Wire them series/parallel. High efficency, tremendous low end punch. way, Way WAY 'down there' kinda frequency output.
There you go. Cheapass infinite baffle set-up. Works like a charm, outperforms ANY box. Period.
When you move, fix the ceiling. Of course, this means you have to be in a bungalow, or a similar arrangement to put such puppies in the attic. Or have th A/V room upstairs. It can port into a washing room, laundry room etc, in a basement. Works just as well. Forget about boxes. spend the money on kick *** woofers, and go infinite baffle for infinite bass response.
This is the old fashioned way, the 'infinite baffle'.
Just cuz it's old, don't mean it ain't the rightest.
Edit: Woofers might cost $300US for all four. Box, simple plywood, glue,and screws. Probably have what you need lying about. It doesn't need to be any particular size at all. Just a square box big enough for one 15" per side. Run some cheap 12-10 guage cable to it.
This WILL create the gutty-wuts churning, children crying, bladder emptying, dumping in your pants, puking on your shoes kind of infra-sonic low frequency pressure when you fire those babies up. Seriously.
Most importantly, it's SIMPLE TO EXECUTE...and it has NO resonance, control or distortion issues of any kind.
I am amazed that more people don't do EXACTLY this set-up.
Can't figure it out for the life of me.
And they call themselves bass freaks, Yeah right!
Box built into ceiling. bottom of box is a port, or hole in the ceiling.
the woofers face into the hole, one per side. the hole is situated over the center of the speaker 'position', ie, exactly in between, for the best phase alignment, or the best point in the room close to that for resonance control.
Wire them series/parallel. High efficency, tremendous low end punch. way, Way WAY 'down there' kinda frequency output.
There you go. Cheapass infinite baffle set-up. Works like a charm, outperforms ANY box. Period.
When you move, fix the ceiling. Of course, this means you have to be in a bungalow, or a similar arrangement to put such puppies in the attic. Or have th A/V room upstairs. It can port into a washing room, laundry room etc, in a basement. Works just as well. Forget about boxes. spend the money on kick *** woofers, and go infinite baffle for infinite bass response.
This is the old fashioned way, the 'infinite baffle'.
Just cuz it's old, don't mean it ain't the rightest.
Edit: Woofers might cost $300US for all four. Box, simple plywood, glue,and screws. Probably have what you need lying about. It doesn't need to be any particular size at all. Just a square box big enough for one 15" per side. Run some cheap 12-10 guage cable to it.
This WILL create the gutty-wuts churning, children crying, bladder emptying, dumping in your pants, puking on your shoes kind of infra-sonic low frequency pressure when you fire those babies up. Seriously.
Most importantly, it's SIMPLE TO EXECUTE...and it has NO resonance, control or distortion issues of any kind.
I am amazed that more people don't do EXACTLY this set-up.
Can't figure it out for the life of me.
And they call themselves bass freaks, Yeah right!
Hi,
speakers without a box need a special kind of driver.
I believe they need a high Qts. By the way this usaully means small magnets and that means cheap drivers but watch your Xmax.
Can an expert confirm a range of acceptable Q for this type of loading?
regards Andrew T.
speakers without a box need a special kind of driver.
I believe they need a high Qts. By the way this usaully means small magnets and that means cheap drivers but watch your Xmax.
Can an expert confirm a range of acceptable Q for this type of loading?
regards Andrew T.
To the original question, creating the lowest frequency requires moving the most amount of air. If a one sub achieves more air displacement than another, then it will be able to play a low frequency with higher SPL than a sub with less excursion. To me Qes seems to be the most important factor in frequency response of the Q's, but Fs and Xmax will dictate the LF output more!
Cone Excursion
Be careful with extended bass design to make sure you have enough Xmax. This alignment produces a higher level of cone excursion before the port takes over. I did some experiments and wrote them up at
http://www.users.bigpond.com/bcolliso/blast-one.htm
Vents rule!
Be careful with extended bass design to make sure you have enough Xmax. This alignment produces a higher level of cone excursion before the port takes over. I did some experiments and wrote them up at
http://www.users.bigpond.com/bcolliso/blast-one.htm
Vents rule!
- Status
- Not open for further replies.