Not safe. Is there any marking on the bottom area near the leads?
You may have to determine the right polarity of installation by looking at the pcb,
and getting a new, properly marked capacitor.
You may have to determine the right polarity of installation by looking at the pcb,
and getting a new, properly marked capacitor.
Even bipolar capacitors are marked accordingly, with BP or two + signs, etc.
I'd just throw it away and buy a new one that is properly marked.
Is the pcb properly marked for the polarity of that capacitor?
I'd just throw it away and buy a new one that is properly marked.
Is the pcb properly marked for the polarity of that capacitor?
The end opposite the leads is likely exposed metal, the closed end of the metal canister.
Take a resistance measurement between that metal and the two leads one at a time.
One lead should should a variable resistance as the cap charges from the meter.
The other lead should show a fixed resistance of fractions of an Ohm. That is the negative lead.
Take a resistance measurement between that metal and the two leads one at a time.
One lead should should a variable resistance as the cap charges from the meter.
The other lead should show a fixed resistance of fractions of an Ohm. That is the negative lead.
Yes, this is a bipolar capacitor. What would be a good capacitor to replace them with in a crossover?
Another possibility:
Connect the capacitor in series with a 100K resistor. Connect the free end of the capacitor and the free end of the resistor to a 30V-40V voltage source. First with "+" of the voltage source to the resistor, then with "+" of the voltage source to the capacitor. Measure the voltage across the capacitor terminals. When the capacitor voltage is within 1V of the source voltage in 1 minute, you have the right polarity of the capacitor.
NB: If bipolar, the polarity does not matter.
Connect the capacitor in series with a 100K resistor. Connect the free end of the capacitor and the free end of the resistor to a 30V-40V voltage source. First with "+" of the voltage source to the resistor, then with "+" of the voltage source to the capacitor. Measure the voltage across the capacitor terminals. When the capacitor voltage is within 1V of the source voltage in 1 minute, you have the right polarity of the capacitor.
NB: If bipolar, the polarity does not matter.
Yes, if it had been stated that this was from a loudspeaker crossover, then of course
it would have to be a bipolar capacitor. This type of part has no electrical polarity, and
can be installed either way.
it would have to be a bipolar capacitor. This type of part has no electrical polarity, and
can be installed either way.
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You won't find ceramic in this value. You can use polyester like WIMA MKP-4 2x 10uF/63V, if space permits. The don't fit on the PCB but you can hot glue them anywhere and use extension wires. There is a chance they will sound even better.
Nowadays 22 uF ceramic capacitors exist, but they are class 2 ceramic capacitors and those distort like crazy. Either use a bipolar electrolytic such as the one rayma linked to or a film capacitor (which will be much bigger).
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Don't push it all the way down against the board. Add a spacer underneath it,
around 1/4" thick, for strain relief (cardboard, plastic, rubber, wood, etc.).
Then stand it upright, and fold over the top lead down to the other hole.
If it does not reach the hole, add a short wire extension to the lead.
around 1/4" thick, for strain relief (cardboard, plastic, rubber, wood, etc.).
Then stand it upright, and fold over the top lead down to the other hole.
If it does not reach the hole, add a short wire extension to the lead.
And to refer back, you have one leg longer than the other, but they have been cut, so when it was new either wire could have been the longer.