Hello all,
I am new to the site and will like to introduce my self a little. I am from NY lived here my whole and really just started using forums and realized how much help they actually could be. Its very fun learning and sharing my knowledge on sites such as this and I hope to continue that trend on this site.
So, my reason for joining at the moment is im looking for some help with my audio install on a 2010 Honda accord Ex.
I know the very basics for a car audio install. Everything is hooked up and I am getting the sound out the subwoofer but its sounds like pure crap. At 15vol - 25vol - I get very good to decent sounds from my subwoofer. When I start to hit the 26-35 vol of my HU my subwoofer begins to clip. I would lower the gain but then get no bass out the Sub. Can't figure out why. I have a very basic Schoshe LOC box with the input vol up all the way even tried it at half vol input on the LOC box. Next the equipment i have:
I have a Kicker ZX series 400w Digital MONO MOSFET amp, and I have a 8 inch (free air) Kicker comp (10C84) 4ohm subwoofer. I am usin I want to keep my OEM headunit and essentially just have the 8inch subwoofer in my rear deck, just like the MODEL above mines (EX-L) and get the sound that it produces, which is very very good. I am not looking to be in competitions, just have decent bass with no box in my trunk, I really like the idea of having the trunk space.
I then began to read about IB subwoofers, but am not 100% sure if there is any difference between that and a free air subwoofer, I mean is there a difference and if so why? Would that be the route I take next and will it work with the amp that I have and LOC box? I am basically at a stand still as I can't figure this out for anything, its frustrating. PLEASE HELP!!.
I appreciate all feed back... thank you!
I am new to the site and will like to introduce my self a little. I am from NY lived here my whole and really just started using forums and realized how much help they actually could be. Its very fun learning and sharing my knowledge on sites such as this and I hope to continue that trend on this site.
So, my reason for joining at the moment is im looking for some help with my audio install on a 2010 Honda accord Ex.
I know the very basics for a car audio install. Everything is hooked up and I am getting the sound out the subwoofer but its sounds like pure crap. At 15vol - 25vol - I get very good to decent sounds from my subwoofer. When I start to hit the 26-35 vol of my HU my subwoofer begins to clip. I would lower the gain but then get no bass out the Sub. Can't figure out why. I have a very basic Schoshe LOC box with the input vol up all the way even tried it at half vol input on the LOC box. Next the equipment i have:
I have a Kicker ZX series 400w Digital MONO MOSFET amp, and I have a 8 inch (free air) Kicker comp (10C84) 4ohm subwoofer. I am usin I want to keep my OEM headunit and essentially just have the 8inch subwoofer in my rear deck, just like the MODEL above mines (EX-L) and get the sound that it produces, which is very very good. I am not looking to be in competitions, just have decent bass with no box in my trunk, I really like the idea of having the trunk space.
I then began to read about IB subwoofers, but am not 100% sure if there is any difference between that and a free air subwoofer, I mean is there a difference and if so why? Would that be the route I take next and will it work with the amp that I have and LOC box? I am basically at a stand still as I can't figure this out for anything, its frustrating. PLEASE HELP!!.
I appreciate all feed back... thank you!
in my experiences i never turn the loc box all the way up. usaully the factoty setting (about 1/2) works fine for me. if it's all the way up you may not be able to turn your amp down far enough. infinite baffle (ib) and free air are the same, no box just a wall seperating the front of the woffer from the back. as far as headunits usaully they start to clip around 3/4 way up (vol). is your subwoofer sealed well in the back deck?rear seats snapped back in place? another words is there any way for air to easily escape from you trunk to your cab? have you tried adjusting audio settings on both your amp and headunit? honestly it sounds to me like 25 is the loudest you should be turning your volume up on your headunit. your subwoofer is a single voice coil 4 ohm and your amp is rated at 400w @ 2 ohms and 200w @ 4 ohms. so you are giving your 100w watt woofer 200w, is the woofer bottoming out? a single 8" 100w woofer can only do so much maybe what you were hearing (vol 15-25) is about as good as it gets. i personally build a lot of boxes but i've done free air set-up a few times (some perforfed better than others). i think one of the best turnouts was in an old camaro with 2 kicker 12's.
good luck
good luck
So do you think getting an amp that is more or less rated specifically for that sub will help better? Also do in a free air (IB) set up, what should be placed between the sub and the trunk? I mean comparing to the OEM everything looks the same so I can imagine that more air is escaping then on my set up. what would be considered a baffle board on my set up the rear deck? or is their something more specific to be used?
your amp should be okay. if anything it may need to be turned down so the woofer is not damaged. your rear deck in this case would be considered your baffle. it doesn't have to be perfectly air tight but if air is easily moving from the trunk to the cab then maybe you could just temporarily cover the hole and see if that makes a difference. oh yea if the trunk is open all the bass will usaully almost completely disappear.
I'm guessing I don't have an air tight deck. I mean more air is escaping then there should be. I'll have to mess with it some more. In ur opinion, is there anything else that I should do, equipment wise or options that I haven't already mention or thought of perhaps??
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