I looked for a discussion but surprised I didn't find something... anyway is there experience here using high temperature solder on, say, big power tube sockets?
I always use 63/37, which is basically worst case for holding in a hot component. Please share if you've done this and I would love a specific brand or two. Many thanks.
I always use 63/37, which is basically worst case for holding in a hot component. Please share if you've done this and I would love a specific brand or two. Many thanks.
I suspect for many, many decades tube sockets were soldered with standard 60/40.
Just tack solder pins 1 and 5 to hold the socket in place.
Then solder the rest of the pins, and then pins 4 and 5 again.
I always use 63/37.
Then solder the rest of the pins, and then pins 4 and 5 again.
I always use 63/37.
Any solder will work. The epoxy in the FR4 board will start degrading long before the solder melts.
Just remember to remove the flux after soldering -- especially for high temperature components. It will continue eating the metal.
If you've got a good lead-free soldering station, I recommend K100LD solder from Kester.
Otherwise, Kester 60/40 solder is perfectly suitable.
Just remember to remove the flux after soldering -- especially for high temperature components. It will continue eating the metal.
If you've got a good lead-free soldering station, I recommend K100LD solder from Kester.
Otherwise, Kester 60/40 solder is perfectly suitable.
63/37 melts at 183 ºC. 60/40 turns plastic at 183 ºC melts at 188 ºC. If the tube pins get that hot in operation you have bigger problems to worry about than the tubes or sockets. Maybe put out the house fire first...
You can read more about solder here: https://neurochrome.com/pages/choosing-solder
Tom
You can read more about solder here: https://neurochrome.com/pages/choosing-solder
Tom
Big transmitter valves usually require forced air cooling. Datasheet should say this and say which ways up they are allowed to be.
It does not hurt to use high temp solder on tube sockets, but it's totally unnecessary.
If the pins are getting that hot that solder melts, perhaps the envelop will crack around them - cooling solves both issues
Any lead free solder has a melting point notedly higher than our beloved Sn60-Pb40 eutectic mix.
E.g. Sn97-Cu3 mix melts about 50 deg. C higher.
E.g. Sn97-Cu3 mix melts about 50 deg. C higher.
If you're really worried about the solder staying solid, get yourself some Sn42Bi58 Rosin core solder. It melts at 130C 😉