Help needed !!
Hello,
I need help with the wiring at a HH Scott 710 Turntable Motor.
At the technical bulletin there is only given: "heavy-duty high quality induction motor", 55W at 110V > 0,5A
There are only two wires coming out of the motor housing, no connetion to the motor case or body.
Please take a look to my "technical" drawing, this is the wiring that I found when I oppend the player.
Bild: hhscottmotorvys5p.jpg - abload.de
With this wiring the motor turns but is very noisy and the power consumpion gets higher and higher after a few seconds.
+- 30 seconds after starting the player the motor took more than 1A !!! , I have never tried to use it longer than to this point, the motor became very !! hot.
Pic from the "technical" side, just when I saw it the first time.
Bild: img_1829p2b0p.jpg - abload.de
from another 710-user:
Bild: scott71053skc.jpeg - abload.de
clearly to identify: only two wires coming out ot the motor housing.
Greets
Banix
Hello,
I need help with the wiring at a HH Scott 710 Turntable Motor.
At the technical bulletin there is only given: "heavy-duty high quality induction motor", 55W at 110V > 0,5A
There are only two wires coming out of the motor housing, no connetion to the motor case or body.
Please take a look to my "technical" drawing, this is the wiring that I found when I oppend the player.
Bild: hhscottmotorvys5p.jpg - abload.de
With this wiring the motor turns but is very noisy and the power consumpion gets higher and higher after a few seconds.
+- 30 seconds after starting the player the motor took more than 1A !!! , I have never tried to use it longer than to this point, the motor became very !! hot.
Pic from the "technical" side, just when I saw it the first time.
Bild: img_1829p2b0p.jpg - abload.de
from another 710-user:
Bild: scott71053skc.jpeg - abload.de
clearly to identify: only two wires coming out ot the motor housing.
Greets
Banix
If there are only two wires from the motor, it is probably a shaded pole type and needs no startup or run capacitor. The capacitor C2 snubs the switch contact and C1 does nothing.
Removing the motor; does it run on the bench? are you using 110v? if it doesn't run, it has possibly got shorted turns or worn bearings. Take it apart and lubricate the bearings before condemning it.
There is a plentiful supply of shaded pole motors from both new and old mains powered turntables but I have never been defeated repairing these.
Removing the motor; does it run on the bench? are you using 110v? if it doesn't run, it has possibly got shorted turns or worn bearings. Take it apart and lubricate the bearings before condemning it.
There is a plentiful supply of shaded pole motors from both new and old mains powered turntables but I have never been defeated repairing these.
> are you using 110v?
Agree. It appears you are running a 115V 60Hz motor in a 230V 50Hz land. Is that what you are doing? Then >1Amp is to be expected for double voltage and lower frequency. You can convert voltage with simple transformer; frequency changing is tougher.
Agree. It appears you are running a 115V 60Hz motor in a 230V 50Hz land. Is that what you are doing? Then >1Amp is to be expected for double voltage and lower frequency. You can convert voltage with simple transformer; frequency changing is tougher.
Yeah BUT the core will saturate and the current will go way up and burn out. Induction motor turntables always have a speed reduction system. If it's belt drive you simply get a larger pulley on the motor shaft. If it's the more common puck drive you do the same with a larger pulley to drive the puck that drives the rim of the turntable. Turntable motor pulleys can be made by any halfway decent machinist - even a competent high school kid.
Of course if you tend to OCD, a 60 Hz oscillator and a large power amp to make a new power system would work but a pulley change seems a lot easier.
G²
Known problem I have myself with a Fairchild turntable that I had bought in the USA, I build a special 60 hz -115 volt powersupply for that. Seems Scott had a 50 hz version motor also , replacing the existing motor with another one is not easy because the pulley and rotor are probably a piece, or difficult to transfer. Seems that there is a shaded polemotor in it which is self starting.The extra RC parts are probably for the build in strobe ? Is the turntable also overhauled as well as the rest of the turntable not unimportant ?
The spindle with the pulley shaft will separate but yes, if a 60HZ shaft, it will run at the wrong speed and of course saturate and then burn out if 110v motor.
i think a 230/115 step-down transformer will help with the voltage. The speed on a 710 is adjustable over a wide range because the reducer from the motor is a cone. The 50/60 Hz speed difference might be sorted that way.
Regardless, the 710 is a very interesting TT and, restored, can sound excellent.
Good luck with your project.
Regardless, the 710 is a very interesting TT and, restored, can sound excellent.
Good luck with your project.
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