biggish files, sorry, will work on that!
http://users.tpg.com.au/users/gradds/HexHT1.JPG
(as shown below)
also
http://users.tpg.com.au/users/gradds/HexHT2.JPG
http://users.tpg.com.au/users/gradds/HexHT3.JPG
things still to do:
stands for rears
port pipe in rears (doh !!)
centre channel
sub http://users.tpg.com.au/users/gradds/HexHTsub.JPG
early listening comments
The little Vifa D26NC-15-06 neodymiums seems to do a very respectable job, even with a short listen while starting to run the speakers in, it seems to be very clean and precise. Well worth the effort of cutting that silly shaped flush mount hole !! ;-)
I think I would recommend it quite highly when a small faceplate is required such as between 5" drivers in an MTM, and in fact in any small speaker where crossing reasonably high is an option or necessity.
The M13SG's are also seeming to be nice and smooth, even at an early stage. Bass is tight but not extended, again what I was aiming at.
The series x-o, 3800Hz, zeta 1.2 is giving a slightly laid back effect as expected. Rather nice for music!
As they run in the mids are becoming smoother and sax etc sounds just great, will probably trim the tweets back just a tad. and need to lengthen the port ( which I made shorter than designed because its a solid wood port and easier to lengthen than shorthen !!
http://users.tpg.com.au/users/gradds/HexHT1.JPG
(as shown below)
also
http://users.tpg.com.au/users/gradds/HexHT2.JPG
http://users.tpg.com.au/users/gradds/HexHT3.JPG
things still to do:
stands for rears
port pipe in rears (doh !!)
centre channel
sub http://users.tpg.com.au/users/gradds/HexHTsub.JPG
early listening comments
The little Vifa D26NC-15-06 neodymiums seems to do a very respectable job, even with a short listen while starting to run the speakers in, it seems to be very clean and precise. Well worth the effort of cutting that silly shaped flush mount hole !! ;-)
I think I would recommend it quite highly when a small faceplate is required such as between 5" drivers in an MTM, and in fact in any small speaker where crossing reasonably high is an option or necessity.
The M13SG's are also seeming to be nice and smooth, even at an early stage. Bass is tight but not extended, again what I was aiming at.
The series x-o, 3800Hz, zeta 1.2 is giving a slightly laid back effect as expected. Rather nice for music!
As they run in the mids are becoming smoother and sax etc sounds just great, will probably trim the tweets back just a tad. and need to lengthen the port ( which I made shorter than designed because its a solid wood port and easier to lengthen than shorthen !!
Very beautiful
I have had that sort of design in the back of my mind for a Tempest subwoofer. You have really done some beautiful work. Did you do the miter cuts on a table saw? and what degree were the angels that you cut if you don't mind me asking.
Thanks for the pics and thanks in advance for any tips. Again, beautiful work.
Fmaker
I have had that sort of design in the back of my mind for a Tempest subwoofer. You have really done some beautiful work. Did you do the miter cuts on a table saw? and what degree were the angels that you cut if you don't mind me asking.
Thanks for the pics and thanks in advance for any tips. Again, beautiful work.
Fmaker
Another set of non-rectangular Classics from the master in Oz!!
With the trim at the top & bottom they aren't really to my taste esthetically, but i bet they are going to fit into someones decor fantastically well.
The hex shape is also nice... ChrisB and i are scheming on a set of non-regular hex cyclinders with a tri of 6x9 FRs in each box.
Do you detect any standing wave problems across the 3 sets of parallel sides?
dave
With the trim at the top & bottom they aren't really to my taste esthetically, but i bet they are going to fit into someones decor fantastically well.
The hex shape is also nice... ChrisB and i are scheming on a set of non-regular hex cyclinders with a tri of 6x9 FRs in each box.
Do you detect any standing wave problems across the 3 sets of parallel sides?
dave
hex and standing waves.....
... this has been looked after...
The fronts actually have a padded 3x1 vertical brace/absorber inside.
And the rears, well, the actual speaker compartment is not a hexagon at all, more a trapezoidal prism. Tricky, hey !!!
... this has been looked after...
The fronts actually have a padded 3x1 vertical brace/absorber inside.
And the rears, well, the actual speaker compartment is not a hexagon at all, more a trapezoidal prism. Tricky, hey !!!
and to Fmaker.....
.. I own a 30 year old radial arm saw, I can set the blade at anything up to 45 degrees or a bit more from the vertical.
For this job the blade is set at 30 degree to the vertical, so the cut is acually a 60 degree bevel, so a perfect hexagon, (well within a couple of mm anyway !!
Just run up all your sides the same with 60 degree bevel, cut the interior hexagons, the ones inside the cabinet have circular holes in them and hence act like a shelf brace. Then just glue and attach the sides one at a time to the inner hexagons, making sure the sides join neat and flush... easy peasy !!!
The construction was done with the mdf layer first, to build the main box, then a layer of 3mm faced ply was put on the outside. This was by far the hardest part to get right, a veneer would have been much easier !!!!!
.. I own a 30 year old radial arm saw, I can set the blade at anything up to 45 degrees or a bit more from the vertical.
For this job the blade is set at 30 degree to the vertical, so the cut is acually a 60 degree bevel, so a perfect hexagon, (well within a couple of mm anyway !!
Just run up all your sides the same with 60 degree bevel, cut the interior hexagons, the ones inside the cabinet have circular holes in them and hence act like a shelf brace. Then just glue and attach the sides one at a time to the inner hexagons, making sure the sides join neat and flush... easy peasy !!!
The construction was done with the mdf layer first, to build the main box, then a layer of 3mm faced ply was put on the outside. This was by far the hardest part to get right, a veneer would have been much easier !!!!!
Great work (as always) Andy!
Good to see any of your new work, you always seem to stay busy on unconventional designs, truly a man after my own heart.
I tried the series x-over thing recently and I found that it just sucked the life out of the Tweeter (Vifa XT) glad to see it worked better for you. You should try an Active design sometime; I would love to hear your impressions on that.
Good to see any of your new work, you always seem to stay busy on unconventional designs, truly a man after my own heart.
I tried the series x-over thing recently and I found that it just sucked the life out of the Tweeter (Vifa XT) glad to see it worked better for you. You should try an Active design sometime; I would love to hear your impressions on that.
Hi Kingdaddy
yep, gotta think out of the box !!!
The Vifa XT25 is actually a very difficult tweeter for a 2-way 1stish order series. Its that undamped resonant peak y'see, and if you use that rather large LRC that seems to be needed then, yep, it kills the tweeter. most of the other tweeters from vifa and seas I have tried work very well with a series x-o. I use them all the time, series x-os work best if you can keep them real simple because every components spreads the incoming sound just that little it thinner. This is why some drivers just will not work real well with a series x-o, too much correction or in the case of the XT, too much protection.
I have got a new x-o design for the Peerless 850467 x 2 + XT25, that uses a few more components than I usually use, will see if that works today I hope !!
yep, gotta think out of the box !!!
The Vifa XT25 is actually a very difficult tweeter for a 2-way 1stish order series. Its that undamped resonant peak y'see, and if you use that rather large LRC that seems to be needed then, yep, it kills the tweeter. most of the other tweeters from vifa and seas I have tried work very well with a series x-o. I use them all the time, series x-os work best if you can keep them real simple because every components spreads the incoming sound just that little it thinner. This is why some drivers just will not work real well with a series x-o, too much correction or in the case of the XT, too much protection.
I have got a new x-o design for the Peerless 850467 x 2 + XT25, that uses a few more components than I usually use, will see if that works today I hope !!
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