Hi. This is my first post here and looking for advise on how to DIY speakers. My current setup are three KEF Q300 for the front and center, SVS PC12 sub . The surround are taken care by wharfadale. I just bought a set of ready made DIY speakers from China with Hivi drivers. Below are the pictures of the speakers and its called S8.
It’s a 3 way speakers with Hivi RT1C-A Isodynamic Tweeter, DMB-A Dome Midrange, and F8N woofers.
I use it mainly for 50/50 movies and music.
I’m looking to build a center with the same hivi drivers and crossover with the same cabinet dimension but with the tweeter and mid that is aligned vertically and a single F8N. Below is a rough design layout.
I believe this speakers should have the same crossover as the Hivi diy3.1 as the drivers used are very similar so I am going to use the diy3.1 crossover for the center speaker. Below is stock crossover for the diy3.1
There is also a perfectionist mod crossover as below
I am not sure if this design would work well as a center speakers. Another options is to go for a W(TM)W design like most center speakers but instead of a single F8N, I could go for two F6N woofers. Because this is my first time building speakers and I have very little knowledge on crossover, I would really appreciate if anyone can tell me if I can use the same crossover when I use two F6N drivers? Or do I need a new crossover for the woofers? How is the wiring for the two woofers?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It’s a 3 way speakers with Hivi RT1C-A Isodynamic Tweeter, DMB-A Dome Midrange, and F8N woofers.
I use it mainly for 50/50 movies and music.
I’m looking to build a center with the same hivi drivers and crossover with the same cabinet dimension but with the tweeter and mid that is aligned vertically and a single F8N. Below is a rough design layout.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I believe this speakers should have the same crossover as the Hivi diy3.1 as the drivers used are very similar so I am going to use the diy3.1 crossover for the center speaker. Below is stock crossover for the diy3.1

There is also a perfectionist mod crossover as below

I am not sure if this design would work well as a center speakers. Another options is to go for a W(TM)W design like most center speakers but instead of a single F8N, I could go for two F6N woofers. Because this is my first time building speakers and I have very little knowledge on crossover, I would really appreciate if anyone can tell me if I can use the same crossover when I use two F6N drivers? Or do I need a new crossover for the woofers? How is the wiring for the two woofers?
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This are the driver comparison between the S8 and the DIY3.1. The specs and frequencies are very very similar so does it mean that they can be interchanged? The DIY3.1 are crossed over at 1.1kz and 4.8kz.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
S8
Frequencies range - 35hz - 20khz
Sensitivity - 89dB
Power - 10-120w
Impedance - 4 ohms
Tweeter - Hivi RT1C-A
Mid - Hivi DMB-A
Woofer - Hivi F8N
Frequencies range - 35hz - 20khz
Sensitivity - 89dB
Power - 10-120w
Impedance - 4 ohms
Tweeter - Hivi RT1C-A
Mid - Hivi DMB-A
Woofer - Hivi F8N
Oops...I'm sorry the photo won't show up. Got it fix.
This are the driver comparison between the S8 and the DIY3.1. The specs and frequencies are very very similar so does it mean that they can be interchanged? The DIY3.1 are crossed over at 1.1kz and 4.8kz.
This are the driver comparison between the S8 and the DIY3.1. The specs and frequencies are very very similar so does it mean that they can be interchanged? The DIY3.1 are crossed over at 1.1kz and 4.8kz.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I have change my plan from a single 8" F8 drivers to a W(CM)W design. The plan above is with two Hivi L6-4R 6" mid/bass. There are two divider that seperates the midbass with the tweeter and midrange and they are closed. The volume for each bass section is 12.88 liters and tuned to 50hz with a rear port (3.5cm x 6.4cm long). I plan to use a adjuster port from Part-express so I can easily fine the port.
Parts Express Speaker Cabinet Port Tube 1-3/8" ID Adjustable
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Below is the WinISD result
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The XO will be the Hivi DIY3.1 crossover as it's essentially the same drivers.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here is another one I did earlier with two Hivi F6 instead of the L6-4R. Same 12.88L box tuned to 50hz with a rear port (3.5cm x 6.4cm long).
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Btw, this is my first time I DIY speakers. I got o a lot of help from another very helpful guy in another forum. Would appreciate if some experience builder here would give their input and advise.🙂
I am not an experienced builder. Port may be too small. Check in "rear port velocity" on winisd. Set the signal (watts ) to your desired average volume, see the results, and the set it to max and compare. In a perfect world, port speed should be below 17 m/s. The higher the speed gets, the more chaffing (or bad sound port) you will get. You can also play with the tuning frequency a little to get a good speed.
Tks for fixing the pics,
Francis
Tks for fixing the pics,
Francis
I am not an experienced builder. Port may be too small. Check in "rear port velocity" on winisd. Set the signal (watts ) to your desired average volume, see the results, and the set it to max and compare. In a perfect world, port speed should be below 17 m/s. The higher the speed gets, the more chaffing (or bad sound port) you will get. You can also play with the tuning frequency a little to get a good speed.
Tks for fixing the pics,
Francis
Thanks Francis. I learn something new again. I reach 17 m/s in 22w
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I don't think it will be a problem since this is a center speakers and I crossover from my Denon receiver at 60hz.
you may need a port per chamber
Yes. Each woofer chamber has its own port.
great. 22 ms is good. The next thing I look is port excursion. you want to know when you are over xmax. Technically, going over xmas will not destroy the drive (xmech is the physical limit and most manufacturers do not destroy) but for sure you will get some distortion once you are over excursion happen. I dont know where xmech is on your drivers, or in most drivers, but as a rule on thumb a 100% above Xmax is bad (like 5 mm excursion on a 2.4 mm Xmax).
This is an empiric rule as reference for sim and I am not stating is correct 100%
Also, if you can see the effect of the receiver, you can go to the filter section and add a 60Hz second order butterworth. leave all the default as they are.
Francis
This is an empiric rule as reference for sim and I am not stating is correct 100%
Also, if you can see the effect of the receiver, you can go to the filter section and add a 60Hz second order butterworth. leave all the default as they are.
Francis
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great. 22 ms is good. The next thing I look is port excursion. you want to know when you are over xmax. Technically, going over xmas will not destroy the drive (xmech is the physical limit and most manufacturers do not destroy) but for sure you will get some distortion once you are over excursion happen. I dont know where xmech is on your drivers, or in most drivers, but as a rule on thumb a 100% above Xmax is bad (like 5 mm excursion on a 2.4 mm Xmax).
This is an empiric rule as reference for sim and I am not stating is correct 100%
Also, if you can see the effect of the receiver, you can go to the filter section and add a 60Hz second order butterworth. leave all the default as they are.
Francis
The Xmax of the Hivi F6 is 4.3
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Looking at the chart, it should not be any problem as I will cross over at 60hz.
I did some play around with VituixCAD and came out with this results.
Crossover is taken from Hivi Diy3.1 perfectionist mode. The tweeter Crossover remains the same but the mid-range XO is tweaked to accommodate the RT1C-A probably due to the higher sensitivity of the RT1C-A. Slight changes to the woofer crossover. I'm not sure if I did every thing right. Below is a attached frd and zma files if anyone interested to check. Btw, thanks to Wolf as I manage to get some frd and zma files from file sharing.
Box
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Crossover is taken from Hivi Diy3.1 perfectionist mode. The tweeter Crossover remains the same but the mid-range XO is tweaked to accommodate the RT1C-A probably due to the higher sensitivity of the RT1C-A. Slight changes to the woofer crossover. I'm not sure if I did every thing right. Below is a attached frd and zma files if anyone interested to check. Btw, thanks to Wolf as I manage to get some frd and zma files from file sharing.
Box
I got the 8S speaker and the crossover looks like this. Anyone can help to identify how is the schematic layout for this XO?
Finally completed my DIY Hivi Center speaker. Here are some pictures. I use Jantzen Superior Z-Cap capacitors for the tweeter, and Mundorf Mcap Evo Oil for the midrange, and Dayton audio cap for the bass crossovers. All inductors and resistors are Jantzen.
Bass drivers : F6
Mid range : DMN-A
Tweeter : RT1.3WE
Bass drivers : F6
Mid range : DMN-A
Tweeter : RT1.3WE
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