I built this kit from Altronics and it worked fine for about half an hour, then just stopped, the lights to indicate a signal received don't operate.
http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=K5026
I know my mistake, but don't know how to fix it. It requires 12 - 15V and by wiring the power supply incorrectly, I was feeding it 30V! Oooops!
Looking at the board, there are no signs of damage. I have taken my multimeter and tried to find any obvious signs of components that are fried, by measuring the resistance across all the resistors, and the motor itself. I can't find anything.
Can anyone suggest how I might find the problem and fix it?
Edit:
Here are the images:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=K5026
I know my mistake, but don't know how to fix it. It requires 12 - 15V and by wiring the power supply incorrectly, I was feeding it 30V! Oooops!
Looking at the board, there are no signs of damage. I have taken my multimeter and tried to find any obvious signs of components that are fried, by measuring the resistance across all the resistors, and the motor itself. I can't find anything.
Can anyone suggest how I might find the problem and fix it?
Edit:
Here are the images:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
How would I determine this? I don't want to randomly buy and replace parts as I could spend the cost of the kit and not fix it. Or maybe even damage parts in the process.
LEDs don't light up now, however whether they still work is another thing. Can I test them with a multimeter?
LEDs don't light up now, however whether they still work is another thing. Can I test them with a multimeter?
Inspect if you have 5 Volts at the output of the regulator and also inspect the 100 uF capacitor at the input of the regulator , this capacitor has only 25 volts ratings and can be destroyed by the 30 Volts input voltage...
Did your 30 volt supply blow a fuse ? I'd also take a good look at the input elect cap it was only rated for 25 vdc.
There are no fuses to blow. The power supply comes from an ESP preamp power supply.
Regarding checking caps, is it sufficient to just measure capacitance with my DMM?
Regarding checking caps, is it sufficient to just measure capacitance with my DMM?
Put a 200 Ohms resistor for protection and to bring the input voltage down ,in series with the positive input of the regulator and inspect the voltages first...
Does it appear to have gotten warm or hot ie shrunken plastic or bulged or expanded about allyou can tell is if it is shorted or not .
Tube_Dude said:
What is the context of that? Is that to get 30V down to 15V? I can do that by wiring it up correctly. Or is it something to do when I'm trying to replace parts?
There are no signs of physical damage - nothing looks like it has overheated. I've inspected carefully and I see nothing.
Argh! I'm ok with building this stuff, but when it goes wrong I'm stuck! :O
Hi. Paul. I'll try to help you. Tube_Dude has the right idea on a good starting point for troubleshooting.
Connect your 15 volt power supply and check the voltage between the negative and positive voltage inputs. It should be about 15 volts. If it's less than 15 you may have an excessive current draw.
Then check the voltage between the negative voltage input and the lead of the 10 ohm resistor that's nearest to REG1. It should read 5.0 volts, + or - about 0.05 volts.
Let us know what you get and we'll take it from there.
It has happened to me, so are you sure the batteries in the remote are good?
Connect your 15 volt power supply and check the voltage between the negative and positive voltage inputs. It should be about 15 volts. If it's less than 15 you may have an excessive current draw.
Then check the voltage between the negative voltage input and the lead of the 10 ohm resistor that's nearest to REG1. It should read 5.0 volts, + or - about 0.05 volts.
Let us know what you get and we'll take it from there.
It has happened to me, so are you sure the batteries in the remote are good?
Paul
That is pretty nifty controller. Does it come with its own remote ? I'll bet that the regulator REG1 worked OK until it overheated then it shut down. Those 7805's have a built in overcurrent protection.As the device heated up it draws more current and shuts itself down. They are less than a dollar here in the states. BillH has the right idea. 🙂
That is pretty nifty controller. Does it come with its own remote ? I'll bet that the regulator REG1 worked OK until it overheated then it shut down. Those 7805's have a built in overcurrent protection.As the device heated up it draws more current and shuts itself down. They are less than a dollar here in the states. BillH has the right idea. 🙂
Remote batteries are fine. It was great when it was working!!! It didn't come with a remote. I had to pull together a pile of remotes around the house until I found one that would work it. I knew one I could buy if needed, then learn the codes into my programmable.
There was a time when I had to get out of my seat to switch sources, change volume and I had a painful turn on routine, that if done incorrectly, gave me loud ugly noises! Now I have just one remote and macros to turn everything on or off from my seat. I can also switch sources. Just press play on DVD and the correct switching happens automatically, or same with watching TV or video. This is the last thing I need that will then achieve the convenience of a store bought remote integrated system. Although in reality this is more convenient, because it is extended to the full AV system.
I'll be back when I've opened up the box and tried all the suggestions. Thanks again.
There was a time when I had to get out of my seat to switch sources, change volume and I had a painful turn on routine, that if done incorrectly, gave me loud ugly noises! Now I have just one remote and macros to turn everything on or off from my seat. I can also switch sources. Just press play on DVD and the correct switching happens automatically, or same with watching TV or video. This is the last thing I need that will then achieve the convenience of a store bought remote integrated system. Although in reality this is more convenient, because it is extended to the full AV system.
I'll be back when I've opened up the box and tried all the suggestions. Thanks again.
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