I have an Infinity Model 2500 (2-way speaker, circa 1985) that has a blown tweeter. It appears to be an audax tweeter. Nonetheless, can I repair the voice coil? I can see where the damage is. Does anyone have any tips on repairing the voice coil wire? I have access to a 10x stereo microscope. I could perform some minor surgery. 😱)
Thx,
Thx,
Is it the tinsel or the voice coil itself that is damaged? I've only managed a repair on compression driver diaphragms not dome tweeters.
Easiest course of action of course would be to replace the driver with something similar if possible.
Easiest course of action of course would be to replace the driver with something similar if possible.
Neutron, thanks for the link. I'll read up. Maybe there's a chance.
I'd rather not have to go find a suitable replacement, then buy 2 since the speakers will likely sound different otherwise, then build a baffle, then find they dont fit, then use duct tape and bailing wire, etc... LOL.
If you are able to peel back a bit of the vc wire, then use a strand of copper as a splice, you may not have to go back a full turn.
I've never had the lead to the first layer go, it's always been the lead off the second layer. So in the extreme, I could pull a turn. If it's the bottom layer, you may be sunk.
I'm not sure about your comment re the unsupported wire getting hotter that the vc...it's a difficult call. The vc has a higher dissipation density so concentrates the heat. Conduction along the former may not be as good as the air around the floating wire. But it was always the floating wire that failed me as a consequence of program material clipping. Ultrasonic fatigue where the wire is unsupported but within the gap field.. As I mention, bond the wires to the former and coil wherever the wire is within field.
Oh, as long as you have a 10x stereoscope....I use an exacto to strip the vc wire insulation very carefully. NO coffee...I repeat, NO coffee!!!
And clean off any flux residue...this small stuff don't take too well to residual hydrochloric acid...pre tin both wires...
Dont' hang around too long with the heat either, this guage wire tends to dissolve into the solder very quickly.
Oh, btw...if it's a aluminum wire vc...nevermind....give it up, go home, nada, never..
jn
I've never had the lead to the first layer go, it's always been the lead off the second layer. So in the extreme, I could pull a turn. If it's the bottom layer, you may be sunk.
I'm not sure about your comment re the unsupported wire getting hotter that the vc...it's a difficult call. The vc has a higher dissipation density so concentrates the heat. Conduction along the former may not be as good as the air around the floating wire. But it was always the floating wire that failed me as a consequence of program material clipping. Ultrasonic fatigue where the wire is unsupported but within the gap field.. As I mention, bond the wires to the former and coil wherever the wire is within field.
Oh, as long as you have a 10x stereoscope....I use an exacto to strip the vc wire insulation very carefully. NO coffee...I repeat, NO coffee!!!
And clean off any flux residue...this small stuff don't take too well to residual hydrochloric acid...pre tin both wires...
Dont' hang around too long with the heat either, this guage wire tends to dissolve into the solder very quickly.
Oh, btw...if it's a aluminum wire vc...nevermind....give it up, go home, nada, never..
jn
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