Hello, I have a Phoenix gold m100 that has 1 channel that sounds low and with a lot of distortion.
I found one driver transistor 2sc3423 with a leg broken.
2sa1360 and 2sc3423 aren't available, can you tell me a good replacement?
I found one driver transistor 2sc3423 with a leg broken.
2sa1360 and 2sc3423 aren't available, can you tell me a good replacement?
Ksa1220 and ksc2690 works fine.
Amp is ok but I note that 4 transistors are very hot, it's arrive at 105 degrees within 5 minutes.
In original amp these transistors has an heatsink. In this amp there is no heatsink but transistors are replaced.
Now I put an heatsink in the four drivers when i replaced its but Temperature is too high, 100-105 degrees
Amp is ok but I note that 4 transistors are very hot, it's arrive at 105 degrees within 5 minutes.
In original amp these transistors has an heatsink. In this amp there is no heatsink but transistors are replaced.
Now I put an heatsink in the four drivers when i replaced its but Temperature is too high, 100-105 degrees
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105F isn't very hot but I'm assuming that you are using Celsius.
What type of heatsink did you use?
What type of heatsink did you use?
Does the other channel drivers run as hot?
Can you use two of the heatsinks back to back?
The MJE15030/15031 are also generally good subs but have reversed pin configuration so have to be installed facing the other direction. They have larger heatsinks available. The ones used in the attached photo are pretty good.
Can you use two of the heatsinks back to back?
The MJE15030/15031 are also generally good subs but have reversed pin configuration so have to be installed facing the other direction. They have larger heatsinks available. The ones used in the attached photo are pretty good.
Attachments
I use only one heatsink, I have to try with 2 back to back.
Mje15030-15031 are to220, I use for this amp ksa1220-ksc2690
I see now in an other original ms2250 with original heatsink and temperature are high at hand.
Drivers become hot in both channels
Mje15030-15031 are to220, I use for this amp ksa1220-ksc2690
I see now in an other original ms2250 with original heatsink and temperature are high at hand.
Drivers become hot in both channels
The heatsinks won't drop the temperature much with no moving air but will help.
The TO-220 pin spacing is the same. They drop into the locations without any mods, in most situations. If you can get the smaller transistors cool enough, there is no need to try the larger ones.
Do you see any corrosion around any of the capacitors? Sometimes darkening can be seen around the solder pads (especially those with thermal reliefs on the pads).
The TO-220 pin spacing is the same. They drop into the locations without any mods, in most situations. If you can get the smaller transistors cool enough, there is no need to try the larger ones.
Do you see any corrosion around any of the capacitors? Sometimes darkening can be seen around the solder pads (especially those with thermal reliefs on the pads).
No corrosion around capacitors.
I change input filter capacitors and the 4 100uf/25 volts near the big resistors that give power to opamps.
Resistors are changed in an old repair and the zone near the resistors is dark
What do you think if I put a small fan inside the amp?
My idea is a hole with a fan in a side of amp but I have to sell it and I cannot modify the chassis.
A 3x3 fan inside should move air but is hot air when amp is on
I change input filter capacitors and the 4 100uf/25 volts near the big resistors that give power to opamps.
Resistors are changed in an old repair and the zone near the resistors is dark
What do you think if I put a small fan inside the amp?
My idea is a hole with a fan in a side of amp but I have to sell it and I cannot modify the chassis.
A 3x3 fan inside should move air but is hot air when amp is on
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The air will be warm but much cooler than the heatsink and driver transistor so it would help. A small squirrel cage fan would direct the air to the line of drivers. 50x15mm is probably the smallest you'll find.
If there is space between the board and bottom cover, you may be able to sandwich the transistor between them. You'd probably have to assemble it all and confirm that the transistors were flat on the bottom cover (with correct insulators and heatsink compound) before soldering the leads.
If there is space between the board and bottom cover, you may be able to sandwich the transistor between them. You'd probably have to assemble it all and confirm that the transistors were flat on the bottom cover (with correct insulators and heatsink compound) before soldering the leads.
Unfortunately the board is damaged, solder pads are damaged, I have to make some bridge to solder all the pins, I have to solder the transistor on both side of the board, some pins in the upper part and some pins on the bottom.
I have some fans 30x30x10 and 40x40x10, I will try this solution.
I have some fans 30x30x10 and 40x40x10, I will try this solution.
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