Hi there,
I want to build a pair of loudspeakers, that would sound like a real hi-end one.
I decided to make a WMTMW plan ,with all these in mind:
-outstanding quality drivers
-the simpler xo possible,using top quality parts
-the bigger role in frequency respond will be given to the 2 mids(80-3000 hz),this means mid-bass drivers
-reproduce big scale music without problems of volume or body,can play really loud without distortion
-separate sealed boxes for every driver
-using materials like concrete
-overall very dynamic,very musical sound
I REALLY NEED YOUR HELP TO CHOOSE THE DRIVERS
I am thinking to use two MOREL MW 143 OR167 midbass drivers,one VIFA XT25TG-04 tweeter,or the DYNAUDIO esotar T-330, and still no ideas about the two bass drivers.Can i use two different sizes?like one 8" and one 10"?You can suggest other drivers too.
I want to build a pair of loudspeakers, that would sound like a real hi-end one.
I decided to make a WMTMW plan ,with all these in mind:
-outstanding quality drivers
-the simpler xo possible,using top quality parts
-the bigger role in frequency respond will be given to the 2 mids(80-3000 hz),this means mid-bass drivers
-reproduce big scale music without problems of volume or body,can play really loud without distortion
-separate sealed boxes for every driver
-using materials like concrete
-overall very dynamic,very musical sound
I REALLY NEED YOUR HELP TO CHOOSE THE DRIVERS
I am thinking to use two MOREL MW 143 OR167 midbass drivers,one VIFA XT25TG-04 tweeter,or the DYNAUDIO esotar T-330, and still no ideas about the two bass drivers.Can i use two different sizes?like one 8" and one 10"?You can suggest other drivers too.
Member
Joined 2002
Humm. i would like to be apart of this also. But i want to use focal drivers insted. : O ) and biamp-able. : O )
For really good dynamics you want efficient drivers.
A look at the Pass Rushmore would give some good clues.
For a midrange for something like this you should consider a FR. The Fostex FE168E Sigma would be a good place to start. 3000 is a bit restrictive on the top, and on the bottom you might want to consider 80-125 Hz.
If it is going to be top-notch it will need to be bi-amped at a minimum, with triamping even better.
dave
A look at the Pass Rushmore would give some good clues.
For a midrange for something like this you should consider a FR. The Fostex FE168E Sigma would be a good place to start. 3000 is a bit restrictive on the top, and on the bottom you might want to consider 80-125 Hz.
If it is going to be top-notch it will need to be bi-amped at a minimum, with triamping even better.
dave
Member
Joined 2002
tri amping is 3 right
1 for tweeter
1 for midrange
1 for woofer
or
1 for tweeter and mid bass
1 for bass driver
1 for Sub for lower end yes no.?
1 for tweeter
1 for midrange
1 for woofer
or
1 for tweeter and mid bass
1 for bass driver
1 for Sub for lower end yes no.?
My tri-amp suggestion
1 tweeter
1 bas/mid
1 subwoofer
and I would prefer one sub for each channel, STEREO
makes the system more flexible, regarding
low crossover freq
/halo - bi-amp for to begin with - then add a sub
1 tweeter
1 bas/mid
1 subwoofer
and I would prefer one sub for each channel, STEREO
makes the system more flexible, regarding
low crossover freq
/halo - bi-amp for to begin with - then add a sub
Member
Joined 2002
ohhh. ok cool.
now here is my idea.
since i have some hi speed amps that were build from my dad. im goig to use them
im also building aleph 2's
so here it goes.
aleph 2's for top end/mid
small 100mono blocks ( hi speed ones. ) for bass driver
and av800's for my stereo subwoofers. : O )
good / no good. : O )
im thinking towers. Mabey. with the sub drivers external Ported
just because i have 800 watts from my av800's dont mean that ill need it all or use it all.
j'
now here is my idea.
since i have some hi speed amps that were build from my dad. im goig to use them
im also building aleph 2's
so here it goes.
aleph 2's for top end/mid
small 100mono blocks ( hi speed ones. ) for bass driver
and av800's for my stereo subwoofers. : O )
good / no good. : O )
im thinking towers. Mabey. with the sub drivers external Ported
just because i have 800 watts from my av800's dont mean that ill need it all or use it all.
j'
Joz,
If you can afford it go for some Dynaudio drivers, like:
24 W-100
30 W-100 (or XL)
or some Vifa ones:
p17wj-00-08
m18wo-09-08
p21wo-20-08
m22wr-09-06
m26wr-09-08
Bear in mind that when you connect them in parallel you'll double the efficiency, but halve the impedance, therefore careful matching efficiencywise is needed if you don't want to use complex X-overs with a lot of compensation components.
The other advantage of these drivers is that they work extremely well with low order X-overs, e.g. 1st order.
You may also consider physical time alignment if using 1st order filter and by doing all this you'll have a sort of clone of some of the big Duntech's or DAL's.
Do a search (maybe using Google) for John Dunlavy, Duntech and Dunlavy Audio Labs this will give you a lot of info.
Good luck!
Stan - building time coherent speakers since 1993
If you can afford it go for some Dynaudio drivers, like:
24 W-100
30 W-100 (or XL)
or some Vifa ones:
p17wj-00-08
m18wo-09-08
p21wo-20-08
m22wr-09-06
m26wr-09-08
Bear in mind that when you connect them in parallel you'll double the efficiency, but halve the impedance, therefore careful matching efficiencywise is needed if you don't want to use complex X-overs with a lot of compensation components.
The other advantage of these drivers is that they work extremely well with low order X-overs, e.g. 1st order.
You may also consider physical time alignment if using 1st order filter and by doing all this you'll have a sort of clone of some of the big Duntech's or DAL's.
Do a search (maybe using Google) for John Dunlavy, Duntech and Dunlavy Audio Labs this will give you a lot of info.
Good luck!
Stan - building time coherent speakers since 1993
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