Hi everyone.
I am working on a heathkit AA-100, wich is a 7591 push-pull integrated. It has what sounds like a 120hz hum to me, on both channels (I compared the hum to 60hz and 120hz tones from a generetor app in my iphone). I suspected the filter caps in the power supply so I replaced those with new JJ multi section electrolytics (They fit the original holes perfectly, really satisfied with that). There was also a paper 20uf cap that I replaced with a new 20uf electrolytic, one resistor that was directly on the cap was replaced too. The 20uf cap has a selenium diode and a resistor in parallel with it so I replaced the diode with a 1n4007 and I changed the diode that’s in series with it for a 10k instead of the 8.2k that was there originally to compensate for the lower resistance/higher efficiency of the 1n4007. There was a paper/wax capacitor between the fuse and the ground so I replaced it with a film cap of the same value.
so from now that’s all I’ve done to it, but the hum is still there. It’s a bit better now but still not usable. When there is no input, the amp is practically silent and I can get the hum pots to lower the slight noise to a satisfactory level, but as soon as I connect my phone in the aux in and start a song, the hum is there. Also, when I did my tests after replacing the filter caps, the amp lost all its bass and I never came back since. I tried other inputs. All the tubes tested very good on my eico 667 tube tester. The power amp section has been recaped by someone else before but I can’t confirm that it ever worked well after that since the owner bought it as is.
what could cause a total lack of bass on both channels ?
since the hum is 120hz and present on both channels I suspect that it’s caused by the power supply, but nearly every cap in the supply is new. Do you have any idea as where I should start looking ?
thanks a lot !
I am working on a heathkit AA-100, wich is a 7591 push-pull integrated. It has what sounds like a 120hz hum to me, on both channels (I compared the hum to 60hz and 120hz tones from a generetor app in my iphone). I suspected the filter caps in the power supply so I replaced those with new JJ multi section electrolytics (They fit the original holes perfectly, really satisfied with that). There was also a paper 20uf cap that I replaced with a new 20uf electrolytic, one resistor that was directly on the cap was replaced too. The 20uf cap has a selenium diode and a resistor in parallel with it so I replaced the diode with a 1n4007 and I changed the diode that’s in series with it for a 10k instead of the 8.2k that was there originally to compensate for the lower resistance/higher efficiency of the 1n4007. There was a paper/wax capacitor between the fuse and the ground so I replaced it with a film cap of the same value.
so from now that’s all I’ve done to it, but the hum is still there. It’s a bit better now but still not usable. When there is no input, the amp is practically silent and I can get the hum pots to lower the slight noise to a satisfactory level, but as soon as I connect my phone in the aux in and start a song, the hum is there. Also, when I did my tests after replacing the filter caps, the amp lost all its bass and I never came back since. I tried other inputs. All the tubes tested very good on my eico 667 tube tester. The power amp section has been recaped by someone else before but I can’t confirm that it ever worked well after that since the owner bought it as is.
what could cause a total lack of bass on both channels ?
since the hum is 120hz and present on both channels I suspect that it’s caused by the power supply, but nearly every cap in the supply is new. Do you have any idea as where I should start looking ?
thanks a lot !
Attachments
I went back to the amp after publishing this post and realized that the lack off bass was caused by the volume pot. I double checked everything that I did and found that I soldered the 20uf cap on the wrong tab of the strip. Soldered it at its place and the hum is gone. Problem solved !Before starting the troubleshooting, be sure to clean oxidation from the wafer rotary switch. I have restored other Heathkit amplifiers from the same era and all of them had extreme oxidation on the source selector, causing all sort of problems.
Problem solved ! And it wad my fault. Lesson learned I guess !
But i’d like to understand the function of this part of the schematic since it was part of the problem. Could someone explain what it does ?
thanks !
But i’d like to understand the function of this part of the schematic since it was part of the problem. Could someone explain what it does ?
thanks !
It is called 'back bias' and is used to create a negative supply, usually for fixed bias output tubes. There is a great description at Aiken amps.
Back bias
Wouldn't back bias come off the center tap? Looks more like a 50VAC bias tap on the transformer.
You’re correct it’s off the CT. Look at the ground references, CT goes to ground, the bias is -xxV (I can’t tell if it’s a 30 or 50) to ground.Wouldn't back bias come off the center tap? Looks more like a 50VAC bias tap on the transformer.
When you are ready too get into it a bit more here's a great thread from AudioKarma.
https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/i...or-the-heathkit-aa-100-integrated-amp.204753/
Cheers, S.
https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/i...or-the-heathkit-aa-100-integrated-amp.204753/
Cheers, S.
Well… I reworked the solder on all the pots, most of the sockets and started to recap the preamp with the parts I already had on hand since everything sounded right and it seemed clear that the volume pot caused the lack of bass because I could get the amp to sound good by wiggling it. Now that i’m shure that the pot is soldered properly, the bass is gone and I can’t find anything else that changes the sound when I move/touch/shake, etc. And I have a slight hum that wasn’t there earlier today.
read the beginning of the aa-100 post. I realize that I might have opened a can of worms… took the amp in for a quick recap for a friend, now its looking like a complete rebuild…
read the beginning of the aa-100 post. I realize that I might have opened a can of worms… took the amp in for a quick recap for a friend, now its looking like a complete rebuild…
Yes, you are correct, that is just a half wave rectified 50V tap, with resistor divider to set the bias voltage, and CT is at ground.Wouldn't back bias come off the center tap? Looks more like a 50VAC bias tap on the transformer.
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