• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Has anyone tried 2 x 6550 100W amp?

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burnedfingers said:
SY

I would like to see a schematic of the Ampex or better yet please send it to me and I will give it a nice home.

I'd like to see it myself. I can't locate any info about this amp.

From what I understand, Ampex power amps are collectors' items; I wish I knew that before I disassembled the twin of this amp to provide iron and chassis for my big triode amp. I'm tempted to eBay the intact one.
 
I have here an 80W 2x6550 amp. I don't have a schematic, don't know the load of the output tubes. It runs the 6550 with 570V on the anode and 320V (regulated) on the screens. ~2000uF total PSU capacitance 😀

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


It uses a 12pin triple triode for the audio path, the first two ones are cascaded, the last one is a cathodyne phase splitter.

An horrible circuit that sounds good 😎

PS the 12pin triode/pentode is (I think) used as a regulator for the input stage. The screens have their own solid state one.
 
SY

What I have on the Priciples of power boob by kevin o conner is only using 1x12AX7 and 2x 6550.
it says 300Volt screen voltage. not sure the anode voltage, but surely less than 500V.
it requires 1650R hammond OT

SY,
I need this schematic to build my 100W project with very low budget.
I need to ask someone if this schematic relly works.....

or

if you can draw me a schematic that produce 100W or about that much with only using 2 tubes and LOW LOW COST I will be appriciate 🙂

missisipi
I wonder how's that 11200W EL34 sounds ? how much that cost ?

cal
 
SY,
how much it cost minimum for 100W amp ?
if only 2x6550 i think i can use it !

mississippi
i just check your site 1200W, scary....

guys show the simple schematic 100W to build.
using only 2 power tube, may be 6550 or KT88 ?

or
SY
draw me the schematic..

please....

cal
 
The voice of experience speaks here. It is possible to get a lot of power out of 6550's or even EL34's by operating the plate at high voltage, and regulating the screen in the 300 to 400 volt range. To avoid over dissipating the tubes the operating point is shifted closer to class B. Usually AB2 is used.

This of course requires a LOT of voltage swing at the plate. Peak to peak voltage swings of 1500 volts are not uncommon. For common audio tubes pin 3 is the plate, and pin 2 is the filament which is usually grounded. These pins are close together, and I have seen an arc jump from pin 3 to pin 2 more than once. It is often fatal to components including the OPT or the speakers. This is often the limiting factor when pushing a tube amplifier to max power. You MUST use high quality ceramic tube sockets, good quality tubes, and everything MUST be clean. High humidity (often approaches 100% here) will make things worse. The speaker load must be matched to avoid extreme voltage swings, and speakers with a wide impedance variation VS frequency should be avoided.

There were a few amplifiers made with 6550's that made as much as 120 watts per pair of tubes (Ampeg SVT and the Sunn Coloseum made about 350 watts with 6 X 6550) with 650 volts on the plates. It would be possible to build one of these designs with a single pair of tubes and the proper components to get 100 watts. The utmost care and attention to detail would be required during the build, and something like this should not be attempted by a builder without a lot of tube amp building experience.

The 6550 has a 40 watt rated plate, yet there are few designs yielding more than 60 watts. This is due to the potential arc over issues. There were plenty of amplifier designs up to 100 watts with the 807 in the 50's and 60's, although most were never intended to be HiFi. The 807 has only a 19 watt rated plate, and it is essentially a 6L6GB with the plate connection moved to a cap on the top of the tube. The top cap solves the arc over issue, so thet higher voltages can be used without sparks and flames.

I have found that the easiest path to big power in tube amplifiers is to use TV sweep tubes. These have plate dissipation ratings up to 45 watts, and plate voltage ratings to 990 volts. I have seen 150 watts from a pair of 6LW6 tubes. Amplifiers like this require a lot of experimentation to get right. The voltages and currents involved can kill you DEAD rather instantly, and the potential for blown, burnt, or otherwise crispy parts is high. The price of admission is not cheap either. Know what you are doing before you go there.

If I havent scared you off yet, there was a schematic for a 90 watt per channel amp using sweep tubes in the March 1999 issue of Glass Audio magazine, which used to be on their web site, but seems to have vanished recently.

There is a thread dealing with high power 807 based amplifiers here. These concepts could be used with other tubes.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=93612
 
tubelab,
well i'm not scare but don't wont to get fried either.

too bad that 90W schematic is gone, that's what I need.

guys,, all I need is a schematic using 2 power tube like 6550, or KT88, or cheaper that can produce around 100W.


budget is less than 1000US$ (max)
show me the schematic that really works


cal
 
The VAC Phi 110 "Beta" integrated tube amp gets 110w/ch out of a pair of KT88s (same type tube as 6550) per side. Though, with the bias they're running, you can expect to replace output tubes once every 3 years or so, if you use it much (kind of like a race car- high performance, but a bit harder on parts than a "streeter")...

However, the tradeoff is taken for about the BEST sound I've EVER encountered from ANY amp, regardless of topology... it's made every speaker we've hooked to it sound better than the same speaker on any other amp, period...

Regards,
Gordon.
 
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