Hey folks. New here hoping the community can lend a hand.
I have a basic understanding of the audio system(s). I had just installed an audio system in my bike. Upgraded saddlebag lids, put in an amp, upgraded 6.5 fairing speakers and put in 8” hybrids and 2 tweeters in the bags.
I installed the system without the additional tweeters first, adjusted the gains and got a good sound. Then I installed the tweeters and ran them in parallel to the coaxial 8” hybrids. Doing that I got more power to the set but then I blew out one of the hybrids(started distorting and crackling intermittently).
I understand that parallel “halves” the impedance thus making more power available. However I should not be even close to the max handling of the speaker to blow it. I am certainly missing something
The amp is a 4-channel ds18 candy z4b pumping 100rms at 4 ohms and 150 into 2 ohms. Fairing speakers are 2ohms and adjusted nicely. Coaxials AND the tweeters are 4 ohms. Coaxials are rated 250 rms and tweeters 200 rms. There is a 2.8 k crossover installed on the positive lead between the hybrid and the tweeter.
What did I do wrong? Do I need to bring the gain down after installing the tweeter in parallel ?
I have a basic understanding of the audio system(s). I had just installed an audio system in my bike. Upgraded saddlebag lids, put in an amp, upgraded 6.5 fairing speakers and put in 8” hybrids and 2 tweeters in the bags.
I installed the system without the additional tweeters first, adjusted the gains and got a good sound. Then I installed the tweeters and ran them in parallel to the coaxial 8” hybrids. Doing that I got more power to the set but then I blew out one of the hybrids(started distorting and crackling intermittently).
I understand that parallel “halves” the impedance thus making more power available. However I should not be even close to the max handling of the speaker to blow it. I am certainly missing something
The amp is a 4-channel ds18 candy z4b pumping 100rms at 4 ohms and 150 into 2 ohms. Fairing speakers are 2ohms and adjusted nicely. Coaxials AND the tweeters are 4 ohms. Coaxials are rated 250 rms and tweeters 200 rms. There is a 2.8 k crossover installed on the positive lead between the hybrid and the tweeter.
What did I do wrong? Do I need to bring the gain down after installing the tweeter in parallel ?
First question is did you high pass the tweeter? They look like they are in parallel but since they shouldn't cover the same range they actually should not be producing the same sounds together, and the impedance will be similarly just like one.
When you describe the intermittent distortion, was this with the bike parked?
When you describe the intermittent distortion, was this with the bike parked?
There is a high pass between coax and the tweeter. (Funny enough as I’m digging now I realize it was rated at 50w - one of those SKAR boxes ) the amp is pumping full range into the channel and coax and tweeter are sharing it. Signal goes to coax first and tweeter hooked up to the same leads (with the high pass on the positive lead ). Distorts all the time. It would stop sometimes, then start again right after.
I changed the coax already (pain in the a$$ since I waterproof siliconed the whole job) I just don’t want to blow it again.
I changed the coax already (pain in the a$$ since I waterproof siliconed the whole job) I just don’t want to blow it again.
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I should also note that I get a small static hiss with the volume off. It gets louder as soon as I hook up the tweeters and gets significantly less audible when I just let the coax be alone
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So you have an added tweeter even though there is already one as part of the coax?
Can you describe it's high pass filter.
Can you describe it's high pass filter.
Maybe they are not a good sensitivity match. The tweeter may need to be lowered in level.
Yes, primarily to squeeze more power from the amp and get up to 40k whereas coax goes to 25k max.
The high pass is just a box with 2 leads ( i imagine a cap is inside ). Here’s a link to it Skar Audio SK1200HZBB-PR Elite Frequency Filters - Eliminates Frequencies 0-1.2 kHz at 4 Ohms - Pair https://a.co/d/1FRo9tR
Both speakers have 97/98 sensitivity
Speakers are DS18 pro hy8.4 and DS18 stx3.5 tweeter
The high pass is just a box with 2 leads ( i imagine a cap is inside ). Here’s a link to it Skar Audio SK1200HZBB-PR Elite Frequency Filters - Eliminates Frequencies 0-1.2 kHz at 4 Ohms - Pair https://a.co/d/1FRo9tR
Both speakers have 97/98 sensitivity
Speakers are DS18 pro hy8.4 and DS18 stx3.5 tweeter
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It sounds as though your 8" coax could not handle the power you gave it. Does that sound right? Was there anything unusual about it other than the sound of it being pushed too hard? For example, was it too loud compared to the fronts? Did the woofer part blow or the 8" tweeter or both?
It looked like there was a tear inside the woofer coil. Not a physical tear you can see more like a separation inside. After a certain time at high volume it would just crackle and you could not make out what was coming through at all. Then after I let it rest it would come back and after some time playing at high volume it would do the same.
Update. I it’s not the speaker. It’s something with the amp or wiring. New speaker was giving me the same crackle until it stopped all of a sudden and sounded Crystal clear. Something has to be loose in the speaker wiring inside the fairing. Gotta take it apart
Hopefully it isn’t the amp.
Hopefully it isn’t the amp.
I guess a lot of times is always something silly. There is a hi/lo pass switch on the amp for each channel. And the switch got old so when I flicked it with my finger it started making a cracking sound in the speaker. Blew a bunch of contact cleaner in there and it seems to be ok. Lmao. Need to buy contact lubricant and hit it. I guess it was a stupid solve in the end
Heat, vibration, and moisture are the devils triangle to bike electricals. I've had to get into the fairing to reconnect power and ground wires due to vibration a couple different times. A harley can loosen a good number of seemingly tight connections, given enough time. I have found that loose ground wire connections are a culprit to check top of the list. Grooves down, and miles of smiles!✌
Yeah, I had my share of electrical problems on bikes as well. Just had to redo my charging system wiring on the DRZ. But my street glide is only a few years old. So none of that yet. The amp though came from a different application and was not new. So that’s understandable. I usually silicone seal my batwing seams anyway just to make sure. At least I know I’m not blowing the speakers 🤣