I've played with the lowest end model of that range, the 6022. If you need a basic, no frills device just to see waveforms. They are OK, the software is garbage but they can do the job. If you expect ANYTHING more than a waveform viewer, you will be sorely dissapointed. Triggering is handled digitally in software, and as such is slow and basically featureless. There really isn't a lot good to say other than they are relativey cheap and can show a waveform.
Otherwise, if you want a real scope, save up your money for either a) a used scope or b) something like the Rigol DS1054Z which is around 1.5-2x the price ($200 versus $400) of the usb scope but 100x better performance.
Otherwise, if you want a real scope, save up your money for either a) a used scope or b) something like the Rigol DS1054Z which is around 1.5-2x the price ($200 versus $400) of the usb scope but 100x better performance.
Thanks for the input. I already have a couple of old analogue scopes and was looking to clear bench space and get better low frequency performance. Looks like a USB scope may not be the way to go. That Rigol is affordable...
That Rigol is also hackable up to 100Mhz, 24MPts memory, Decoders (RS232/UART, I2C and SPI trigger and decoding functions), Advanced Triggers (RS232/UART , I2C , SPI, Runt, Windows, Nth edge, Delay, Timeout, Setup/Hold), Waveform Recording and Playback. The biggest thing though is it brought digital phosphor technology to an entry level scope. This alone really hurt the used analog scope market, because variable persistence was the last domain where an analog was useful and you now have a great entry level scope with these capabilities.
RichardK did some great work making software that was at least stable and functional. It still doesn't help that the scope still has a lot of limitations. The trigger limitations are hard limitations. Similarly, so are the limited voltage input ranges. It's damn useful for what it is but it's still far in capabilities from a real dedicated scope. Though for the 6022BE it's super cheap ($60-70), so for that its actually a decent value for the money.
This. 😉
For basic stuff it's OK.
Can e.g. help postpone the expense of a proper oscilloscope until you're invested enough in the hobby.
Hantek6022be problem
Need some help myself. Have the Hantek6022be and when I connect the probe to an outlet in the home the wave form is a square wave and the values do not look correct. Should be a sine wave. What am I doing wrong? Also, setting the probe to 1X gives really crazy results?
Need some help myself. Have the Hantek6022be and when I connect the probe to an outlet in the home the wave form is a square wave and the values do not look correct. Should be a sine wave. What am I doing wrong? Also, setting the probe to 1X gives really crazy results?
You are trying to measure mains ? Assuming that's what you mean, well its highly dangerous for a number of reasons.
The probable reason its distorted/square etc is because you are massivlely overloading the input stage. You've lived to tell the tale anyway 😉
To look at the mains safely you should use a low voltage isolation transformer and look at the secondary voltage. Leave voltage measurement of the primary side to a DVM.
Hantek6022be problem
Mooly,
Thanks for your reply. Guess you can tell I am a novice. As I understand it the probe has a 1X and a 10X attenuation? And the GUI has 2 windows, one with volts and the other with 1X etc. I notice if I do not change the volts setting and increase the 1X to 10X on the GUI, the voltage read out increases by 10 fold. How do I tell what the actual voltage reading should be? Should the probe setting be the same as the GUI setting like 10X and 10X? Incidentally, the line voltage is 120 volts rms. Is that enough to over drive the input stage with the proper settings on the GUI?
Mooly,
Thanks for your reply. Guess you can tell I am a novice. As I understand it the probe has a 1X and a 10X attenuation? And the GUI has 2 windows, one with volts and the other with 1X etc. I notice if I do not change the volts setting and increase the 1X to 10X on the GUI, the voltage read out increases by 10 fold. How do I tell what the actual voltage reading should be? Should the probe setting be the same as the GUI setting like 10X and 10X? Incidentally, the line voltage is 120 volts rms. Is that enough to over drive the input stage with the proper settings on the GUI?
Hi Chet,
Are you serious?! Really?
If your Hantek survived that move with a X10 probe, you might have killed it using the X1 switch position. We almost never use a probe in X1, so I would recommend that you switch both to X10 and fill the opening with silicone adhesive.
The waveform did not look correct for you because the input stage was probably overloaded. Using the probe on X1 after that pretty much insured that if damage was possible, it did occur. Does your oscilloscope still work now? Can you set the probe compensation?
-Chris
Are you serious?! Really?
If your Hantek survived that move with a X10 probe, you might have killed it using the X1 switch position. We almost never use a probe in X1, so I would recommend that you switch both to X10 and fill the opening with silicone adhesive.
The waveform did not look correct for you because the input stage was probably overloaded. Using the probe on X1 after that pretty much insured that if damage was possible, it did occur. Does your oscilloscope still work now? Can you set the probe compensation?
-Chris
VERY VERY VERY much this! You are lucky you didn't kill your PC.
You need to stop playing around and learn about your equipment (and its limitations) properly before you damage it (or kill yourself in the process). What you did was VEYR VERY VERY dangerous.
The input stage for this scope is limited to +/-5V and THAT IS IT! If you want to measure +/-50V you need a 10x probe, anything up to 500V you need a 100x probe and above that you need a 1000x probe.
Hopefully it (and your computer) are undamaged.
As for the square wave, what you are seeing is SEVERE clipping of the sine wave. Basically anything >5V registers as 5V.
Looks like I may have ruined one probe. The one damaged probe appears to be reading the cal signal as 0.2 volts instead of 2.0 volts
Hantek6022be problem
My mistake, both probes read the same 2 volt pk-pk cal signal with volts on 1 volt/div and 1X setting on GUi. The line voltage I tested was 120 volts rms. Will that actually overdrive the scope input? I notice if I change the 1X to 10X the display shows 20 volts pk-pk for the cal signal. How do you know what the settings should be to read an unknown source voltage?
My mistake, both probes read the same 2 volt pk-pk cal signal with volts on 1 volt/div and 1X setting on GUi. The line voltage I tested was 120 volts rms. Will that actually overdrive the scope input? I notice if I change the 1X to 10X the display shows 20 volts pk-pk for the cal signal. How do you know what the settings should be to read an unknown source voltage?
Well it's a testament to the Hantek that it has survived and appears to be working correctly. It may fail or give wrong readings in the future though, depending on for how long you shoved the mains up it. The input stage semiconductors may have taken some damage/weakening.
I cannot believe you are asking that after all the replies so far.
That is what it's supposed to do, a 10x probe is dividing by 10 so the software multiplies by 10 to give you the correct value.
That's the point of the calibration signal. You really need to stop and read some basics on scope use.
Hantek6022be problem
Thanks everyone. I am not usually this careless but I really blew this one. You were all quite correct and I am quite disappointed in my ignorant approach. I now notice that the Hantek says in fine print at the inputs (Max 35 volts). I have since implemented a transformer as suggested and I guess I am blessed because so far things are working fine so chalk one up for the durability of the Hantek. It must have a built in idiot factor.
Thanks everyone. I am not usually this careless but I really blew this one. You were all quite correct and I am quite disappointed in my ignorant approach. I now notice that the Hantek says in fine print at the inputs (Max 35 volts). I have since implemented a transformer as suggested and I guess I am blessed because so far things are working fine so chalk one up for the durability of the Hantek. It must have a built in idiot factor.
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