Hi everybody!
Well here's an update on what I've been doing, just in case anyone wants to know.
A couple months ago I bought two untested no-guarantee 14" Panasonic PanaFlat LC40 LCD displays off of E-bay for about $15, plus $10 or $20 S/H. All told I got two LCD flat panels (1024x768 native) for about $50. One of the LCD's didn't even come with a controller board inside, and it's LCD was cracked very badly. Strike one. So I get the other LCD, hook it up to a 14 volt power supply, and put a video signal into it. "Welcome to Windows 2000!" Home run! 🙂 So needless to day, I was pretty happy about that. The only problem is that the good LCD panel has two vertical blue lines down the middle of the screen, one pixel wide, but they don't go all the way to the bottom and I think I will be okay, especially if I put the screen a little out of focus. It's only noticable on white backgrounds, but on dark backgrounds you can't see it at all.
So anyway, that's where I'm at right now. I'm currently in the college electronics lab with two dismantled LCD screens on the desk beside me. However, this is the main question I had for everyone.
I was originally intending to replace the CCFT's in a flat panel monitor with an array of high-output LED's. I bought 28 10,000 mcd ultra-brights, but I don't think I'm going to use them. The Panasonic PanaFlat is very different from the laptop screens I've taken apart in that the backlight has a 3/8 inch solid piece of clear acryllic light guide for the main backlight optics. That's more than enough area for me to feed a halogen worklight bulb into it, and these backlights are double-sided. That means I could put two halogen bulbs end-to-end on each side of the backlight, and put another pair on the other side of the backlight, for a total of 4 4" halogen (think LOA type bulb) bulbs cranking into my panel. The only thing I'm worried about is heat, but I *REALLY* like these backlight optics.
Anyone have ideas on my heat problems? I really like how cheap LOA bulbs are to replace, Basically I would just make my own reflector for them and feed them into the lightguide that is already present behind the LCD panel.
If this worked, I would have a projector roughly the size of a flat panel monitor that I could in theory hang on one wall and project onto the opposite wall. That would be pretty stinking cool. 🙂
Respectfully,
Clint Herron
Well here's an update on what I've been doing, just in case anyone wants to know.
A couple months ago I bought two untested no-guarantee 14" Panasonic PanaFlat LC40 LCD displays off of E-bay for about $15, plus $10 or $20 S/H. All told I got two LCD flat panels (1024x768 native) for about $50. One of the LCD's didn't even come with a controller board inside, and it's LCD was cracked very badly. Strike one. So I get the other LCD, hook it up to a 14 volt power supply, and put a video signal into it. "Welcome to Windows 2000!" Home run! 🙂 So needless to day, I was pretty happy about that. The only problem is that the good LCD panel has two vertical blue lines down the middle of the screen, one pixel wide, but they don't go all the way to the bottom and I think I will be okay, especially if I put the screen a little out of focus. It's only noticable on white backgrounds, but on dark backgrounds you can't see it at all.
So anyway, that's where I'm at right now. I'm currently in the college electronics lab with two dismantled LCD screens on the desk beside me. However, this is the main question I had for everyone.
I was originally intending to replace the CCFT's in a flat panel monitor with an array of high-output LED's. I bought 28 10,000 mcd ultra-brights, but I don't think I'm going to use them. The Panasonic PanaFlat is very different from the laptop screens I've taken apart in that the backlight has a 3/8 inch solid piece of clear acryllic light guide for the main backlight optics. That's more than enough area for me to feed a halogen worklight bulb into it, and these backlights are double-sided. That means I could put two halogen bulbs end-to-end on each side of the backlight, and put another pair on the other side of the backlight, for a total of 4 4" halogen (think LOA type bulb) bulbs cranking into my panel. The only thing I'm worried about is heat, but I *REALLY* like these backlight optics.
Anyone have ideas on my heat problems? I really like how cheap LOA bulbs are to replace, Basically I would just make my own reflector for them and feed them into the lightguide that is already present behind the LCD panel.
If this worked, I would have a projector roughly the size of a flat panel monitor that I could in theory hang on one wall and project onto the opposite wall. That would be pretty stinking cool. 🙂
Respectfully,
Clint Herron
Attachments
Glad to see you haven't given up!
I'll put my mind to the heat issue..but really nothing occurs to me right off hand. I might suggest that you look for a thicker piece of acrylic to better accomodate a larger tube...also a larger surface area for the purpose of heat dissipation.
If a "chanel" could be formed around the perimeter of the panel with something like aluminum "U" chanel (a picture frame that wraps the LCD and acrylic) you could pump air through it...possibly "cooled" air? .. maybe from a peltier cooler?
I'd suggest that the lamp mounts be mounted to the aluminum frame (should be of reasonably thick cross section aluminum) this way "transmitted" heat is passed to the frame not the acrylic.
Just quick ramblings for the moment..I'll think it through later and see if I'm just plain wrong maybe 😉
zardoz
I'll put my mind to the heat issue..but really nothing occurs to me right off hand. I might suggest that you look for a thicker piece of acrylic to better accomodate a larger tube...also a larger surface area for the purpose of heat dissipation.
If a "chanel" could be formed around the perimeter of the panel with something like aluminum "U" chanel (a picture frame that wraps the LCD and acrylic) you could pump air through it...possibly "cooled" air? .. maybe from a peltier cooler?
I'd suggest that the lamp mounts be mounted to the aluminum frame (should be of reasonably thick cross section aluminum) this way "transmitted" heat is passed to the frame not the acrylic.
Just quick ramblings for the moment..I'll think it through later and see if I'm just plain wrong maybe 😉
zardoz
I was thinking of having recessed reflectors, kindof like the u-channel that you were talking about. Bending it out of highly-reflective steel sheet metal or something, and then pumping air through the gap between the actual bulb and the side of the acryllic light guide. I was even thinking about putting some sort of IR filter in there, but I'm not sure how well that would work.
I guess I didn't really label the squarish-U shape thing around the bulbs as the light reflector, but that's what I was intending it to be.
It almost seems that even being an inch or two away from the edge of the acryllic though, that halogen worklight bulbs would be enough to melt the acryllic, or to at least fry the edges of my LCD, but as I'm inexperienced in this area, I was hoping to get more insight from some of y'all. 🙂
Thanks!
--Clint
I guess I didn't really label the squarish-U shape thing around the bulbs as the light reflector, but that's what I was intending it to be.
It almost seems that even being an inch or two away from the edge of the acryllic though, that halogen worklight bulbs would be enough to melt the acryllic, or to at least fry the edges of my LCD, but as I'm inexperienced in this area, I was hoping to get more insight from some of y'all. 🙂
Thanks!
--Clint
HanClinto,
Its great to here from you on the forum again. If you were to use halogens, the get hot! Were talking like 200 degrees and riseing the first few second they some on (maybe like 400 degrees). I think the u-shapped channel may work, but i would be sure to make it out of aluminum, as that has awsome heat dispersion (IE, put a piecse of aluminum foil in the oven on high for an hour, then take it out with bare hands... very cool huh. Halogen is cheap, but if you could with a small metal halide bulb, that would run cooler.
Another idea have it the buy a piece of plexliglass that is the hight of the monitor, but much wider so the two sides would be 5-10 inches longer than the monitor. You would use this to replace the light guide inside the monitor. You could get some samples of the 3m 98% reflective film, and coat the back with it. When placed in the monitor, the two sides that are 5-10 inches would stick out, and you could send the light from an external halogen light bulb through them into the lcd. you could even attach a u shaped light guide on to the ends, and 5-10 inches would be enough not to worry about heat.
Hopefully you can understand my idea gabber, if you guys can i will try to make a diogram.
vm
Its great to here from you on the forum again. If you were to use halogens, the get hot! Were talking like 200 degrees and riseing the first few second they some on (maybe like 400 degrees). I think the u-shapped channel may work, but i would be sure to make it out of aluminum, as that has awsome heat dispersion (IE, put a piecse of aluminum foil in the oven on high for an hour, then take it out with bare hands... very cool huh. Halogen is cheap, but if you could with a small metal halide bulb, that would run cooler.
Another idea have it the buy a piece of plexliglass that is the hight of the monitor, but much wider so the two sides would be 5-10 inches longer than the monitor. You would use this to replace the light guide inside the monitor. You could get some samples of the 3m 98% reflective film, and coat the back with it. When placed in the monitor, the two sides that are 5-10 inches would stick out, and you could send the light from an external halogen light bulb through them into the lcd. you could even attach a u shaped light guide on to the ends, and 5-10 inches would be enough not to worry about heat.
Hopefully you can understand my idea gabber, if you guys can i will try to make a diogram.
vm
Panasonic LC40
When you take apart the Panasonic LC40 how easy is it?
Is it possible to get all the ribbon cable out of the way so that you could mount this panel on an overhead projector? Would this work? Im just new to all this and I bought a topvision 12' panel even before I found this fourm and found that the ribbon cables get in the way
So now Im seeking good advice b4 I but this panasonic LC40 being offered to me at a very reasonable price.
When you take apart the Panasonic LC40 how easy is it?
Is it possible to get all the ribbon cable out of the way so that you could mount this panel on an overhead projector? Would this work? Im just new to all this and I bought a topvision 12' panel even before I found this fourm and found that the ribbon cables get in the way
So now Im seeking good advice b4 I but this panasonic LC40 being offered to me at a very reasonable price.
I honestly haven't taken it apart yet that far. I was going to, but I decided just to use the LC40 as a 3rd monitor for the time being. If you really want, I might be able to take it apart and see. Is it something crucial you would like to know?
Regards,
clint
Regards,
clint
Na don't worry about taking it aprat, Im not sure I can buy this one anymore, the main thing Im looking for is an LCD monitor that can be taken apart so all the ribbon cable is out of the way, I bought a panel but I cant use it because when all the ribbon cables are connected it blocks off some of the screen, I would have to extend the ribbon and these are the smallest I have ever seen, I know ppl on this board have done it but this is just too small, Im mean you NEED a soldering iron the a tip the size of a PIn I mean a PIN. SO yeah Im kind of stuck there. Thnaks anyway
Sure thing. Honestly, the monitor's sitting on my desk unpowered at the moment. Whenever I mess with my Linux server I usually use that panel. If you get a chance to buy that monitor again, I'd be more than happy to dismantle my panel for you. Just so you know, I don't really like the way the picture looks on the LC40. It might just be my particular one, but I don't think the color temperature looks all that good (even when I adjust it with the on-screen menu), it's just not a very high-quality one imho. Just my 2 cents fwiw.
ttfn
clint
ttfn
clint
Well that LC40 has reapeared, and I need to make a descision, so if its not too much trouble, it would be really appreciated if you could have a quick peak at yours to see how it looks on the inside.
Cheers,
Rhys
Cheers,
Rhys
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