I just picked up a Hafler DH500, and the feet / screws on the bottom are mismatched:
I tried purchasing replacements on eBay, but they are definitely not a match. Any suggestions on sourcing these items? I don't need them to be exact matches - just functional.
Any help appreciated!
kcr
I tried purchasing replacements on eBay, but they are definitely not a match. Any suggestions on sourcing these items? I don't need them to be exact matches - just functional.
Any help appreciated!
kcr
Any suitably sized set of 4 (four) plastic or better still rubber feet (also called "bumpers") would be suitable.
The screws in your image appear to be either stripped badly or a type of self-tapping machine screw. One clearly is (the upper right small one) self tapping. Once the threads are made, any machine screw with the same thread size is appropriate to use. The length is long enough to hold the feet and not so long as to contact some sort of component or wiring behind.
Typical screws for USA made products are 6-32, 8-32, 10-32. Can't tell from your image, since there is no size relationships shown, but those are likely 6-32, maybe 8-32.
The screws do not have to "match" just hold the part.
In the case where the feet are just stuck through the bottom plate, and do not hold the plate on to the chassis, if needed a nut can be placed on the rear, with a lockwasher to keep it from spinning out over time.
Hope this helps.
_-_-
The screws in your image appear to be either stripped badly or a type of self-tapping machine screw. One clearly is (the upper right small one) self tapping. Once the threads are made, any machine screw with the same thread size is appropriate to use. The length is long enough to hold the feet and not so long as to contact some sort of component or wiring behind.
Typical screws for USA made products are 6-32, 8-32, 10-32. Can't tell from your image, since there is no size relationships shown, but those are likely 6-32, maybe 8-32.
The screws do not have to "match" just hold the part.
In the case where the feet are just stuck through the bottom plate, and do not hold the plate on to the chassis, if needed a nut can be placed on the rear, with a lockwasher to keep it from spinning out over time.
Hope this helps.
_-_-
This helps immensely - I thought I need special screws and bumpers and what not. I did receive 4 bumpers that look serviceable - I'll make sure I get the right size screws and should be good to go. Thanks!
Sad to report - the screw is not a 6-32 as I thought. It does appear to be 6 gauge, but the threading is off. I forced a few turns, and the screws threads were pushed around to match what you see in the screws in my first pic. Unfortunately after a few turns it snapped off in the hole. Good times. I'm going to see if a wood screw ( half the TPI ) is the correct match.
I'm guessing this is the screw I need. From the hafler assembly manual:
Screw, sheet metal,#6 x 3/8" . I grabbed a wood ( maybe sheet metal ) screw I had , and it dropped right in.
Screw, sheet metal,#6 x 3/8" . I grabbed a wood ( maybe sheet metal ) screw I had , and it dropped right in.
The images of the screws you show are standard looking machine threads.
The actual threads may have been goobered up by self tapping sheet metal screws at some point in their history, and the threads ruined by that... if you take a 6-32 nut, I'd guess it would thread on the upper right screw no problem, and perhaps on the very odd looking other three.
IF the screws only penetrated to the tip to hold, that would explain the thread problems. Also if your screw snapped off, it was a pretty cruddy screw, fwiw.
But as long as it is held on properly, it matters not.
The actual threads may have been goobered up by self tapping sheet metal screws at some point in their history, and the threads ruined by that... if you take a 6-32 nut, I'd guess it would thread on the upper right screw no problem, and perhaps on the very odd looking other three.
IF the screws only penetrated to the tip to hold, that would explain the thread problems. Also if your screw snapped off, it was a pretty cruddy screw, fwiw.
But as long as it is held on properly, it matters not.
Hi Bear,
Although machine screws were current forced into the holes - that is not how I think it is supposed to work. I found that #6 machine screws fit perfectly. I believe that the previous owner forced machine screws into those holes. This is what stretched the threads out as can be seen on the tips.
This happened when I forced additional machine screws into those holes. This is a bad photo, but you can see how the threads were being reformed:
The bottom screw is the one that snapped off from doing this. I was surprisingly successful in drilling the remaining bit of screw out. I didn't really expect it to work as well as it did.
Although machine screws were current forced into the holes - that is not how I think it is supposed to work. I found that #6 machine screws fit perfectly. I believe that the previous owner forced machine screws into those holes. This is what stretched the threads out as can be seen on the tips.
This happened when I forced additional machine screws into those holes. This is a bad photo, but you can see how the threads were being reformed:
The bottom screw is the one that snapped off from doing this. I was surprisingly successful in drilling the remaining bit of screw out. I didn't really expect it to work as well as it did.
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