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does anyone know what this switch at the front of a garrard 401 functions as?
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I think that is the main switch that turns it on. Works off of a cam controlled by the knob? Do you have a manual at all? If not, here is one:
http://www.audiomods.co.uk/garrard_manual.pdf
http://www.audiomods.co.uk/garrard_manual.pdf
in the manual it is just listed as 'switch' and there are no pics or info on the inside workings of the plastic case.....I sent the unit to a tech to diagnose. but yes i think it's either connected to stopping the platter via the eddy brake or some other function related to switching on but one of the black coil resistor type things shorted out..........add to that the little device is impossibe to get back together.....people say these garrards are built well but that switch at least, does not inspire confidence.....
I have a Zero 100 that I bought in 1973. It does have a few problems I am working on, but overall is still in good shape. I have heard that they had good and bad years where quality went down to save money. Hope you are able to get it going again.
A word to the wise - Please wear gloves when delving into Garrards of this vintage!
A lot of the internals in Garrard 301s and 401s are coated in cadmium, which is best not ingested.
Peter
A lot of the internals in Garrard 301s and 401s are coated in cadmium, which is best not ingested.
Peter
Good information to know about the cadmium. I sure didn't know that. I am building a new preamp and will be giving my 100 a clean and lube job. Thanks Peter.
No problem.
Useful links here:
Garrard Zero 100s advice required! - UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum
Pitfalls of Garrard 401 | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
best
Peter
Useful links here:
Garrard Zero 100s advice required! - UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum
Pitfalls of Garrard 401 | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
best
Peter
That is a great link. It is always good to get info from someone that has already done what you are wanting to do. I saved the posts for future reference when I get to doing mine. He recomends using EP80 gear oil. I wonder if the Amsoil synthetic gear lube that I use in my Harley will be good for this? A little in the bike, a little in the turntable.
Attachments
It's fine, they are pretty robust.
It is the power switch to the motor - When you turn it on, a linkage moves in between the contacts and pushes them together. Normally they will still be working fine today, 50 years after manufacture - can't say that about lots of other switches.
The platter is stopped by a mechanical felt pad being pushed against the inside of the platter, again in place by a linkage.
The "eddy brake" is for the fine speed adjustment and is magnetic/mechanical (I think) using just a magnet and a spinning disc, so that the moving disk interacts with the magnetic field creating eddy currents in the disc who's own magnetic fields' in turn oppose the motion of the disc. The resistance this causes is dialed in on the speed adjustment knob by moving the magnet further over the disc, causing more area of the disc to be effected.
Hello Hdonly,
I'm listening to my 401 on a slate plinth as I write - it really is very nice - good bass and rhythm. It is currently mated with a Moerch 9" UP and a Zu Audio 103. A great combination.
I'm afraid I had my current 401 serviced by Martin Bastin who is probably the definitive Garrard guru in the UK and it came back with a spare bottle of lube, but no name on it, so I can't help.
On earlier TT restorations, I used sewing machine oil or some gloop caled Molyslip (which is probably good for this purpose) but see this link (post #2 onwards) for a well-considered regime, which I have followed in part so far:
Oiling a Garrard 401.
HTH
Peter
Looks like several people use synthetic oils. I keep plenty around as I use synthetic in my truck as well as my bike. 20w40, 20w50, straight 60w (in the bike) and 70w , 90w gear lube. I also have a can of grease called Lubriplate that looks like graphite or molybdenum in it. From what I am reading, the 301 seems to be the one with cadmium plating. I think I also need to replace the wires through the tonearm as I get a left channel drop-out and noise on occasion.
Early 401s, too, I believe.
If you are having to rewire, it might be a good opportunity to inspect/lubricate any bearings in the arm while you are at it...
P
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