Many years back some kind soul donated some ‘old turntable parts’ to me along with an old reel to reel & boxes of tapes, I remember them saying at the time they might be useful for spares. The reel to reel was checked out & was completely shot & was dumped along with the tapes many years ago. The other box with turntable parts was sent to the attic during a clear out session & only saw light again for the first time last week.
I think this is about a 15 years of darkness.
So imagine my shock when upon opening the box for the first time ever last week I find a Garrard 401 with an SME 3009 arm (with all manuals etc.) all mounted on the tattiest bit of chipboard you’ve ever seen & silly sod me never even opened the box!!
As I have explained to my better half, it is now my solemn responsibility to ressurect this unit to full working condition with all urgency.
To help with this duty can anyone offer advice as to the following:-
1) An ideal material to replace the chipboard?
2) Should this deck & its new mounting plate to which it appears to bolt directly be ‘suspended’ in a box surround in order to isolate it from external vibration, if so any suggestions?
3) Does anyone know if the original motor was run direct from mains supply or was there a separate PSU in the box?
4) What effect will 15+ years of neglect have on cartridge/stylus & other components? (Storage has been in dry but dusty conditions)
Any advice greatly appreciated by this soon to be reformed digital user.
Tim F
I think this is about a 15 years of darkness.
So imagine my shock when upon opening the box for the first time ever last week I find a Garrard 401 with an SME 3009 arm (with all manuals etc.) all mounted on the tattiest bit of chipboard you’ve ever seen & silly sod me never even opened the box!!
As I have explained to my better half, it is now my solemn responsibility to ressurect this unit to full working condition with all urgency.
To help with this duty can anyone offer advice as to the following:-
1) An ideal material to replace the chipboard?
2) Should this deck & its new mounting plate to which it appears to bolt directly be ‘suspended’ in a box surround in order to isolate it from external vibration, if so any suggestions?
3) Does anyone know if the original motor was run direct from mains supply or was there a separate PSU in the box?
4) What effect will 15+ years of neglect have on cartridge/stylus & other components? (Storage has been in dry but dusty conditions)
Any advice greatly appreciated by this soon to be reformed digital user.
Tim F
401 is powered directly from the wall;
be sure that you have voltage selector (beneath platter) in right position (hehe-If I did not mix 401 with some other TT I have)
do some Google for "garrard 401" and you'll find tons of useful info,with no need that somebody here must type "War and Piece" again
be sure that you have voltage selector (beneath platter) in right position (hehe-If I did not mix 401 with some other TT I have)
do some Google for "garrard 401" and you'll find tons of useful info,with no need that somebody here must type "War and Piece" again

Oh, yes. I'll be pleased to help corrupt another innocent cd user 🙂
1. Ideal material? I honestly don't know but a friend was very successful with two 20mm baltic birch boards glued together for a plinth and the whole contraption then resting on 3 rollerblocks. My iteration uses a single board with a cutout, 4 tall brass towers for legs, 40mm slate, inner tube, another 40mm slate. Of course the inner tube provides mostly horisontal isolation and the rollerblocks - vertical, so both approaches should best be integrated. An enclosed plinth will likely worsen isolation and create additional resonances. My friends plinth initially used a damping layer in the plinth which properly killed dynamics and was soon removed.
A useful tweak is to support the main bearing with an adjustable screw from the back so that a some of the vibrational energy can be taken away from the bearing.
3. Originally the motor is fed by a single phase 110-220v (selectable). I've been using it for years with a synthesised 50Hz /180v sine to a great effect.
4. 15 years mean nothing in a 301 lifetime. Check that both top and bottom bearings of motor are oiled, clean and reoil main bearing (make sure you know if it's oil or grease). Check if idler rubber is ok and oil idler bearing.
Cartridge suspension is probably shot of course.
good luck
1. Ideal material? I honestly don't know but a friend was very successful with two 20mm baltic birch boards glued together for a plinth and the whole contraption then resting on 3 rollerblocks. My iteration uses a single board with a cutout, 4 tall brass towers for legs, 40mm slate, inner tube, another 40mm slate. Of course the inner tube provides mostly horisontal isolation and the rollerblocks - vertical, so both approaches should best be integrated. An enclosed plinth will likely worsen isolation and create additional resonances. My friends plinth initially used a damping layer in the plinth which properly killed dynamics and was soon removed.
A useful tweak is to support the main bearing with an adjustable screw from the back so that a some of the vibrational energy can be taken away from the bearing.
3. Originally the motor is fed by a single phase 110-220v (selectable). I've been using it for years with a synthesised 50Hz /180v sine to a great effect.
4. 15 years mean nothing in a 301 lifetime. Check that both top and bottom bearings of motor are oiled, clean and reoil main bearing (make sure you know if it's oil or grease). Check if idler rubber is ok and oil idler bearing.
Cartridge suspension is probably shot of course.
good luck
Forgive ignorance but what are 'roller blocks' ? (Can these be found in old digital sources!
Is their a recommended manufacturers air pressure for inner tube!
Have you any suggestions for replacement cartridge?
I'm sure I can find slate with no problem, so will start gathering bits this weekend.
PS Thanks Guys
Tim F
Is their a recommended manufacturers air pressure for inner tube!
Have you any suggestions for replacement cartridge?
I'm sure I can find slate with no problem, so will start gathering bits this weekend.
PS Thanks Guys
Tim F
Hi,
Rollerblocks are nothing more than a ball bearing that rests in its own "cup" machined out from a block of aluminum. A few variations are available commercially.
The inner tube should only have enough air to propery support what it's isolating - in general, the lower the pressure, the better.
For a low priced cartridge, check the Grado line. Going up in price opens up a pandora's box of possibilities.
Rollerblocks are nothing more than a ball bearing that rests in its own "cup" machined out from a block of aluminum. A few variations are available commercially.
The inner tube should only have enough air to propery support what it's isolating - in general, the lower the pressure, the better.
For a low priced cartridge, check the Grado line. Going up in price opens up a pandora's box of possibilities.
And another ..
Tim, I too have a 401 / SME3009 (series 2, I gave the series 1 away
) also fitted to a tatty piece of chipboard (same make, by chance😀 😀 ) so I would be keen to hear about your progress. BTW, I noticed on ebay these thing are changing hands for a considerable sum !
Dave
Tim, I too have a 401 / SME3009 (series 2, I gave the series 1 away

Dave
Mass, mass, and more mass
Garrard 301s and 401s rumble unless you have a heavy plinth. A minimum mass for the plinth is 40lbs. One way of doing this is to use the Garrard cut-out for the top board, a much smaller cut-out for the next lowest board etc, and build up a plinth three or four inches thick. You can add further mass by adding a layer of 2mm roofing lead between each 19mm layer of MDF or plywood. A planer will tidy the edges quite cheerfully (including the lead). Sit the whole thing on an inner tube or isolating feet.
Martin Bastin makes a birch plywood plinth (Max Plank) and does various other goodies like idlers for Garrards.
Garrard 301s and 401s rumble unless you have a heavy plinth. A minimum mass for the plinth is 40lbs. One way of doing this is to use the Garrard cut-out for the top board, a much smaller cut-out for the next lowest board etc, and build up a plinth three or four inches thick. You can add further mass by adding a layer of 2mm roofing lead between each 19mm layer of MDF or plywood. A planer will tidy the edges quite cheerfully (including the lead). Sit the whole thing on an inner tube or isolating feet.
Martin Bastin makes a birch plywood plinth (Max Plank) and does various other goodies like idlers for Garrards.
Mass, rigidity and few open spaces
Although I've never owned one, with luck I'll soon get one. If/when I do I'll be taking the following route:
Among the best reviewed of the Garrard plinths was one laminated up from evil MDF.
This was routed to have cutouts JUST large enough to give clearance to the moving parts below (use a profile gauge) and was in the order of 5 or 6 inches thick.
IIRC it overlapped the Garrard on boith sides by about 6 inches and at the back by about 3 inches making it a fairly large piece of kit once all was said and done.
Once veneered the final result was attractive (back breaking, but attractive)
drew
ps
Slate Audio in the UK used to make a heavy stone plinth for the 401
Although I've never owned one, with luck I'll soon get one. If/when I do I'll be taking the following route:
Among the best reviewed of the Garrard plinths was one laminated up from evil MDF.
This was routed to have cutouts JUST large enough to give clearance to the moving parts below (use a profile gauge) and was in the order of 5 or 6 inches thick.
IIRC it overlapped the Garrard on boith sides by about 6 inches and at the back by about 3 inches making it a fairly large piece of kit once all was said and done.
Once veneered the final result was attractive (back breaking, but attractive)
drew
ps
Slate Audio in the UK used to make a heavy stone plinth for the 401
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