Hi, I have a Fusion nv-am10002 2channel amp which I said I would have a look at for a friend as its not working.
The info I was given is that it was working fine until it was dropped, and now when it was bridged, it wouldnt do anything, and when each channel was tried separately, it just made the sub thud.
So my thoughts were one of the transistors have gone. So I pulled up the guide on bcae's website on how to test the transistors, but my readings were different to all the different types listed on there. Can anyone shed any light on this?
What I was getting on my meter for various transistors was as follows:
In diode mode on meter:
with the rewd lead on the 1st leg and the black on the 2nd leg, the meter shows approx 0.900 and climbs quite fast to 2.000 at which point it goes out of range of the meter and then it displays 1
After that, I move the black lead to the 3rd leg and I get 0.846
There are afew different types of transistors with various readings. The thing is, none of my reading, whichever way around, are reading as open ciruits. Are these some different type of transistors that are not listed?
I can see no burnt or damaged parts etc anywhere
Any advice where to go from here?
Many thanks in advance!
The info I was given is that it was working fine until it was dropped, and now when it was bridged, it wouldnt do anything, and when each channel was tried separately, it just made the sub thud.
So my thoughts were one of the transistors have gone. So I pulled up the guide on bcae's website on how to test the transistors, but my readings were different to all the different types listed on there. Can anyone shed any light on this?
What I was getting on my meter for various transistors was as follows:
In diode mode on meter:
with the rewd lead on the 1st leg and the black on the 2nd leg, the meter shows approx 0.900 and climbs quite fast to 2.000 at which point it goes out of range of the meter and then it displays 1
After that, I move the black lead to the 3rd leg and I get 0.846
There are afew different types of transistors with various readings. The thing is, none of my reading, whichever way around, are reading as open ciruits. Are these some different type of transistors that are not listed?
I can see no burnt or damaged parts etc anywhere
Any advice where to go from here?
Many thanks in advance!
What was the part number on the face of the transistors?
Was the transistor in or out of the circuit?
Was the transistor in or out of the circuit?
Hi, numbers are:
SK
A1694
65 p
By in or out of the circuit, do you mean still on the circuit board? yes it is if so
Thanks
SK
A1694
65 p
By in or out of the circuit, do you mean still on the circuit board? yes it is if so
Thanks
All the transistors that are clamped to the body are:
2 x on each side of:
SK
A1694
65 P
2 x on each side of:
SK
C4467
63 P
^^ those 8 are the biggest ones^^
1 x
FMG22R
59 10
1 x
FMG22S
59 13
3 x on each side of:
IRFZ44N
628P
NR 8E
2 x on each side of:
SK
A1694
65 P
2 x on each side of:
SK
C4467
63 P
^^ those 8 are the biggest ones^^
1 x
FMG22R
59 10
1 x
FMG22S
59 13
3 x on each side of:
IRFZ44N
628P
NR 8E
Power the amp up and measure the DC voltage on the center legs of the larger (output) transistors. Confirm that all with the same part number (A1694, C4467) have the same voltage. If they do, post the voltage on the center leg of the A1694 and the C4467.
Do you have approximately 15v on pin 8 of the op-amps and approximately -15v on pin 4 of the op-amps. I'm assuming that they're 8-pin op-amps and not 9 pin op-amps.
Do you have approximately 15v on pin 8 of the op-amps and approximately -15v on pin 4 of the op-amps. I'm assuming that they're 8-pin op-amps and not 9 pin op-amps.
Hi, will power it up later to find out.
Can you confirm what op-amps refers to? does it mean output amps? are you talking about the pins on the IC chip?
Sorry, I know these are probably basic questions!
Can you confirm what op-amps refers to? does it mean output amps? are you talking about the pins on the IC chip?
Sorry, I know these are probably basic questions!
Hi, results were using a car battery which was at 11.7v with only live, earth and remote wires connected
A1694 middle legs = -37v
C4467 middle legs = 35.7v
FMG22R middle leg = -37v
FMG22S middle leg = 35.7v
IRFZ44N middle legs = 11.7v
There are 3 ic chips as follows:
4 pin:
PC-17K1
429V
KBB
pin 1 = 0v
pin 2 = 0v
pin 3 = -11.08v
pin 4 = 11.68v
---------------------
8 pin:
4558D
JRC
G153A
pin 1 = 1.76v
pin 2 = 4.93v
pin 3 = 0.78v
pin 4 = 0v
pin 5 = 5.38v
pin 6 = 10.92v
pin 7 = 1.44v
pin 8 = 11.73v
----------------------------------
16 pin:
68AXKTK E4
TL494CN
pin 1 = 3.57v
pin 2 = 4.93v
pin 3 = 0.06v
pin 4 = 0.03v
pin 5 = 1.46v
pin 6 = 3.35v
pin 7 = 0v
pin 8 = 10.7v
pin 9 = 3.41v
pin 10 = 3.41v
pin 11 = 10.71v
pin 12 = 10.71v
pin 13 = 4.93v
pin 14 = 4.93v
pin 15 = 4.93v
pin 16 = 3.63v
--------------------------------
Sorry for the length, but thought I would be thorough!
I put a sub to the bridged output, and it seemed to be working, 1 thing I did notice is there was a very strange buzz/crackle coming from near the where the large coil of wire and capacitors are, it sounded a bit like when you spark a wire, but nothing is loose, I also thought it sounded a bit like a cricket. Nothing appears to be overheating though
It was buzzing in time to the music, only only noticeable when vol turned up quite high but it was coming though to the speaker sound aswel
Really appreciate your help with this!
A1694 middle legs = -37v
C4467 middle legs = 35.7v
FMG22R middle leg = -37v
FMG22S middle leg = 35.7v
IRFZ44N middle legs = 11.7v
There are 3 ic chips as follows:
4 pin:
PC-17K1
429V
KBB
pin 1 = 0v
pin 2 = 0v
pin 3 = -11.08v
pin 4 = 11.68v
---------------------
8 pin:
4558D
JRC
G153A
pin 1 = 1.76v
pin 2 = 4.93v
pin 3 = 0.78v
pin 4 = 0v
pin 5 = 5.38v
pin 6 = 10.92v
pin 7 = 1.44v
pin 8 = 11.73v
----------------------------------
16 pin:
68AXKTK E4
TL494CN
pin 1 = 3.57v
pin 2 = 4.93v
pin 3 = 0.06v
pin 4 = 0.03v
pin 5 = 1.46v
pin 6 = 3.35v
pin 7 = 0v
pin 8 = 10.7v
pin 9 = 3.41v
pin 10 = 3.41v
pin 11 = 10.71v
pin 12 = 10.71v
pin 13 = 4.93v
pin 14 = 4.93v
pin 15 = 4.93v
pin 16 = 3.63v
--------------------------------
Sorry for the length, but thought I would be thorough!
I put a sub to the bridged output, and it seemed to be working, 1 thing I did notice is there was a very strange buzz/crackle coming from near the where the large coil of wire and capacitors are, it sounded a bit like when you spark a wire, but nothing is loose, I also thought it sounded a bit like a cricket. Nothing appears to be overheating though
It was buzzing in time to the music, only only noticeable when vol turned up quite high but it was coming though to the speaker sound aswel
Really appreciate your help with this!
The noise from the transformer may be nothing more than loose windings. If you touch the windings, you can probably stop the noise. Loose windings aren't generally a problem.
The voltages you posted appear to be from an amp with a power supply in good working order.
The voltages you posted appear to be from an amp with a power supply in good working order.
Hi, I will connect it properly to my car stereo later in my car and see what happens.
Is it safe to touch the windings and the capacitors etc when the amp is running or am i likely to get a shock?
Is it safe to touch the windings and the capacitors etc when the amp is running or am i likely to get a shock?
The windings are safe to touch in most amps but some of the very large amps will 'tickle' a bit due to leakage through the insulation on the windings. The aluminum on the large capacitors can shock you. If you're concerned, wear gloves or use a non-conductive probe.
Ok, not the problem I have is when the power is removed (key out of ignition) the speakers receive a thud from the amp a few seconds after.
Do you know what is causing this and how I can fix it?
Thanks
Do you know what is causing this and how I can fix it?
Thanks
Not sure exactly what you mean by on. As soon as the key is turned off, the stereo turns off and the remote wire (its actually just an ignition live) drops out, thus turning off the amp, then about 2 secs after theres a thud that comes through the speakers connected to the amp
Just tried it, yes it does it without the rca's connected. It also does it when power is applied (ignition turned on) again without the rca's
On the 4 pin opto-coupler, what is the DC voltage measured directly across pins 1 and 2 immediately after applying remote voltage?
How long does it remain at that voltage (up to about 20 seconds)?
What is the voltage when it changes?
How long does it remain at that voltage (up to about 20 seconds)?
What is the voltage when it changes?
Hi, pins 1 and 2 show no voltage at all when the remote wire is on or off. I checked them individually and also with the meter probes 1 on pin 1 and the other on pin 2 and still showed nothing
Pin 3 climbs from 0 to -12v in about 2-3 seconds when remote power is applied, but this it just after the 'on thud' happens (the on thud is not half as loud as the off thud)
and pin 4 stays 12v weather on or off
If that is the faulty part, is there an alternative as I could not find anyone who was selling that exact part number
Thanks again!
Pin 3 climbs from 0 to -12v in about 2-3 seconds when remote power is applied, but this it just after the 'on thud' happens (the on thud is not half as loud as the off thud)
and pin 4 stays 12v weather on or off
If that is the faulty part, is there an alternative as I could not find anyone who was selling that exact part number
Thanks again!
Post the DC voltage on all of the terminals of IC2. Place the black meter probe on the amplifier's ground terminal. Place the red meter probe on the point where you need to measure the voltage.
When remote voltage is initially applied (will have to repeatedly apply remote voltage)
Pin 1:
Pin 2:
Pin 3:
Pin 4:
Pin 5:
Pin 6:
Pin 7:
Pin 8:
~15 seconds after remote voltage is applied
Pin 1:
Pin 2:
Pin 3:
Pin 4:
Pin 5:
Pin 6:
Pin 7:
Pin 8:
When remote voltage is initially applied (will have to repeatedly apply remote voltage)
Pin 1:
Pin 2:
Pin 3:
Pin 4:
Pin 5:
Pin 6:
Pin 7:
Pin 8:
~15 seconds after remote voltage is applied
Pin 1:
Pin 2:
Pin 3:
Pin 4:
Pin 5:
Pin 6:
Pin 7:
Pin 8:
When remote voltage is initially applied (will have to repeatedly apply remote voltage)
Pin 1: 1.81
Pin 2: 4.92
Pin 3: 0.80
Pin 4: 0
Pin 5: 6.54 then the speaker sound comes out it drops to 5.4
Pin 6: voltage climbs slowly upto 11.2 (music starts coming out at around 6.5
Pin 7: 10.87 then drops to 1.47 after afew seconds (when music starts coming out)
Pin 8: 11.94
all voltages are the same after 15 secs
Pin 1: 1.81
Pin 2: 4.92
Pin 3: 0.80
Pin 4: 0
Pin 5: 6.54 then the speaker sound comes out it drops to 5.4
Pin 6: voltage climbs slowly upto 11.2 (music starts coming out at around 6.5
Pin 7: 10.87 then drops to 1.47 after afew seconds (when music starts coming out)
Pin 8: 11.94
all voltages are the same after 15 secs
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