First ESL build questions

[oman9589]

I am new to building electrostatic speakers and have begun researching the process and parts that would go into creating a single hybrid speaker, 12” x 36”. I want to use flat steel sheets for the stators, and after looking online for the right combinations of hole diameter, metal thickness and ideal percent open, I can’t seem to find a perfect combination online.

I also probably want the sheets to be professionally coated unless there is an easy/safe way to do it at home. What type of coating I should use? How thick will the coating be? If sent in to be coated, can you ask to have a section not coated for the wire connection? Should I solder the wires on beforehand?

If anyone has any experience with this process, I would love your input 🙂

 

[CharlieM]

I don't claim to know the best solutions but my blogpage has info that you may find helpful:
Jazzman's DIY Electrostatic Loudspeaker Page

 

[oman9589]

Hey!
I've been using a lot of information from your guide and from Sander's cookbook. In your blog, you say that you have the experience and tools to apply a spray coat to the stators, what equipment and knowledge would I need to do the same? And if I were to do this myself, I need to solder the cables to the stator before I spray it? I am trying to start this project without much prior experience with audio DIY, so if I ask any stupid questions, please bear with me.

 

[CharlieM]

Hey!
I've been using a lot of information from your guide and from Sander's cookbook. In your blog, you say that you have the experience and tools to apply a spray coat to the stators, what equipment and knowledge would I need to do the same? And if I were to do this myself, I need to solder the cables to the stator before I spray it? I am trying to start this project without much prior experience with audio DIY, so if I ask any stupid questions, please bear with me.

Yes, if spray painting the stators, you should solder the leads on first. I used an air compressor and a cheap HVLP spray gun from Harbor Freight tools to apply the coatings. And I used a catalyzed automotive polyurethane (Martin-Senour Crossfire paint system sold by NAPA Auto Parts)... it's not cheap-- about $125 or so for a pint of pre-thinned black acrylic basecoat + 1 quart of clear poly and the catalyst. The important thing is don't hurry, mist on the coats (better to spray too dry than too wet or capillary action will pull the wet paint away from the sharp edges where you need it most) and allow 10 minutes tack time between coats.

The great thing about a catalyzed polyurethane system is that it sets chemically and is completely cured in a few hours. And it doesn't have a lot of volatiles flashing off, reducing the coating thickness. BTW, catalyzed polyurethane is seriously toxic... you will need very good ventilation and a good cartridge type mask rated for painting (activated charcoal filters-- also available from Harbor Freight Tools).

Many people use much cheaper acrylic paint from aerosol cans and say it works fine. I suspect that it would if applied to 10 mils minimum thickness (a lot of cans!) --- and you would need to wait much longer between coats for air dry paint. Whatever you use, don't spray wet. Spray mist coats to build a foundation first.. letting the volatiles flash off between coats. After the foundation coats dry, come back with a final coat or two wet enough to give good cosmetics.

And I used a cheap Vernier caliper from Harbor Freight tools to measure the coating thickness. I recommend 10 mils minimum (0.010") on both faces)... measure stator thickness before painting and the difference after painting divided by two gives the thickness on each face.

 

[asmith]

I have a pair of 2x4 foot plates up for sale. They were made by Marten Logan and have never been used. There already powder coated and ready for the Mylar to be installed.