First Build Advice Requested - Open Baffle FR Driver

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HI All

I would love to build my own pair of loudspeakers after years of losing huge money on production brand built speakers. From my research, I am thinking of Fostex FE206EN drivers, in a simple open baffle design.

I am aware that things can get seriously complicated, in design and build, but I am not too interested in the theory. Nor have I good electronic/soldering skills and my woodworking is basic.

However, I think I could manage an open baffle, routed hole for the driver and add some finish that my wife would be ok with.

Would I be wasting my time with this, or am I likely to get a good sound? Also, I am not an audio purist, but enjoy listening to hifi sound of tracks I enjoy.

Also, I am based in Europe, which limits my options on buying kit but I can get my hands on Fostex drivers and some plywood easy enough.

Are there are tutorials on the basics of loudspeaker builds?


Thanks!
 
Greets!

These and some other forums are whole libraries of knowledge, so all you need do is google whatever you're wanting and you'll probably find it multiple places and probably in your native language since you're based in Europe.

Regardless, not aware of an 'OB for dummies' tutorial unless these qualify [haven't read them], though maybe can still glean enough info from them: OB Theory

FWIW, the reality is that low Qts drivers such as the 206 are extremely poor choices for 'full range' OB or any other simple box for that matter since it's a horn driver, hence needs a really large, complex box to go low unless driven with a high output impedance amp with variable damping [DF] tone controls; otherwise much of its efficiency is traded for bandwidth [BW] using frequency shaping EQ, though of course you can put it on the small OB it requires and couple it to separate wide BW mid bass/'sub' system.

In short, the higher the driver's Qts', the better for wide range OB apps with the caveat that the baffle must be larger unless stuck in corners, defeating most of the OB's 'tone', though not necessarily need to be flat in width ['U' frames], so before choosing a driver, better to figure out how big a baffle [H x W x D 'box'] your wife will tolerate.

Qts' = Qts + any added series resistance [Rs]: mh-audio.nl - Home

GM
 
Gm, thanks a lot for the information. Muxh appreciated.

If I go for a 2 way and hence need a crossover, can I buy suitable crossovers off the shelf without assembly requirements and how easy are they to install if I can buy such assembled units?

Something I omitted from my first post is that my listening is at very low volume levels.
 
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You're welcome!

Once upon a time, but you'll have to 'web crawl' to see, though IIRC Parts Express will design basic ones for drivers they sell, but in either case they historically aren't anywhere near 'good enough' based on numerous postings I've read.

As for installing them, they normally will be marked for each driver and which polarity. Note that with a two way the tweeter is normally reversed, but having never paid any attention as to how they actually mark them I don't know how they address this, though must be clear since I don't recall any folks having any concerns/complaints.

Low playback levels or not, with wide band/'FR' drivers one normally only needs a super-tweeter capped off [1st order] really high to get that top end 'sibilence', 'definition', 'air', so no need for a higher order XO unless the mains 'die' below ~7.5 kHz: https://universe-review.ca/I13-17-Musicalns00.jpg

GM
 
You're welcome!

Once upon a time, but you'll have to 'web crawl' to see, though IIRC Parts Express will design basic ones for drivers they sell, but in either case they historically aren't anywhere near 'good enough' based on numerous postings I've read.

As for installing them, they normally will be marked for each driver and which polarity. Note that with a two way the tweeter is normally reversed, but having never paid any attention as to how they actually mark them I don't know how they address this, though must be clear since I don't recall any folks having any concerns/complaints.

Low playback levels or not, with wide band/'FR' drivers one normally only needs a super-tweeter capped off [1st order] really high to get that top end 'sibilence', 'definition', 'air', so no need for a higher order XO unless the mains 'die' below ~7.5 kHz: https://universe-review.ca/I13-17-Musicalns00.jpg

GM

Thanks, having read a little further I am happy to build a crossover, it appears that once the difficult design element is overcome, building and soldering appears straightforward. Looking at the Manzanita now. About to pull the trigger on the components bit want to do a little more research first.
 
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