I'm making a modular flexy rack with this ply. I used medium walnut Danish oil by Watco on one upper finished section in this same light plywood. it didn't take so great, it went blotchy for some reason.
Every other time the Danish oil worked superb for me, looks great. I want something easy to apply. Another reason I like the Danish oil, its usually easy to work with.
Every other time the Danish oil worked superb for me, looks great. I want something easy to apply. Another reason I like the Danish oil, its usually easy to work with.
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Did you sand it? If so, maybe you went with too fine of a grit and it closed up the grain. Usually a quick sand with 100 or 120 will do it he trick. Ive also had blotchy results from not sanding at all.
I never liked the color tinted Watco oil, the pigment is coarse and seems to stick in the pores and make an uneven tone. But I haven't used it for a while...
I use aniline dye in my finish if I need to tone the wood. There's a product called TransTint that you can put into almost anything - alcohol, polyurethane, water. Also I've had success with Behlen Sloar-Lux dye stain.
I make a home blended wipe on finish of 1 part satin polyurethane, 1 part boiled linseed oil and one part mineral spirits. Wipe it on liberally, let sit for 30 mins and wipe off with "shop towels" and then buff vigorously with clean shop towels. It has more build and durability than Watco, but also leaves the texture of the wood. One more idea is to try the wood stain conditioner the Minwax or whatever makes for softwoods.
I use aniline dye in my finish if I need to tone the wood. There's a product called TransTint that you can put into almost anything - alcohol, polyurethane, water. Also I've had success with Behlen Sloar-Lux dye stain.
I make a home blended wipe on finish of 1 part satin polyurethane, 1 part boiled linseed oil and one part mineral spirits. Wipe it on liberally, let sit for 30 mins and wipe off with "shop towels" and then buff vigorously with clean shop towels. It has more build and durability than Watco, but also leaves the texture of the wood. One more idea is to try the wood stain conditioner the Minwax or whatever makes for softwoods.
The walnut Watco oil I mentioned took well on a quarter sawn oak desk surface, that was one of the most fun staining projects I did. It brought out all the tiger stripes, looks stunning.
I'm less than thrilled how this species of veneer takes to it. Its really light almost as if it was bleached. I think I decided to simply clear it and try to maintain that light colour instead.
These are my flexy shelves all sanded out ready for some 1/2" holes, then a finish.
What do you think of the stain sample? Me thinks it likes the deep heavy grain in oak better.
I'm less than thrilled how this species of veneer takes to it. Its really light almost as if it was bleached. I think I decided to simply clear it and try to maintain that light colour instead.
These are my flexy shelves all sanded out ready for some 1/2" holes, then a finish.
What do you think of the stain sample? Me thinks it likes the deep heavy grain in oak better.
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I use Danish oil on all my hardwood projects, but it's hit or miss on some of my ply based builds. So much so, I tend to use only the Natural shade on ply.
Shellac is pretty easy to work with. However, even the amber flakes won't give you much extra color. It can also go under or over most every finish.
Shellac is pretty easy to work with. However, even the amber flakes won't give you much extra color. It can also go under or over most every finish.
The water based shellac I tried is easy and it looks good. My one time using it, come to think of it that was on an audio stand.
It goes over black stain to create some sheen, optioned from high to low gloss, or satin. Rona sells a good water based line of stain and shellac. I wonder if shellac would tint that veneer darker?
I was thinking of using a simple two part clear urethane / thinner. I figured out how to lay coats out nice and flat so it looks like glass.
It goes over black stain to create some sheen, optioned from high to low gloss, or satin. Rona sells a good water based line of stain and shellac. I wonder if shellac would tint that veneer darker?
I was thinking of using a simple two part clear urethane / thinner. I figured out how to lay coats out nice and flat so it looks like glass.
The upper shelves are a light veneered ply from a different store, it didn't take it well, it penetrated the surface more and less and created a blotchy effect. At least the electronics hide the worst parts of it.
I use alcohol based shellac, dries rather quickly and is easy to fix if needed. Just wipe on, let dry for a few minutes, and wipe on another coat. I usually let it harden up over night then do a light sanding the next day before more coats. The trick is to use more and more thinned coats as you near the last coat.
I'm going with satin fast drying clear Varathane. I suggested thinning it, tech said not necessary. I'll test first. I hate lines in my finish.
I'm cutting it close, it has to hold a large mono block 17" x 17".
The jigsaw isn't the best tool for the job.. but it worked in a pinch LOL
I'm cutting it close, it has to hold a large mono block 17" x 17".
The jigsaw isn't the best tool for the job.. but it worked in a pinch LOL
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