First things first, I'm a first time poster (noob), but have done some research, but couldn't find specific answers to my problems. I'm using an Iiyama ProLite e385 for a projector, and like so may others, am going to have to extend the FFC that wrap behind the backlight. My problem is that I seem to be having problems counting the number of connectors -pins- on my FFC. When I count the number of connectors on the back of the cable
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I come up with 18 pins, with a wider one on each edge (sort of hard to tell because pictures a little blurry, sorry about that. The problem is that when I count the number of pins connecting to dock on the other end of the FFC, I come up with 16. My question is then, which number should I go by? do I need all 18 pins to connect? Additionally, I couldn't find any defitions for things such as ZIF connectors, Molex, and all those other fancy words having to do with FFC daisy chains (A and D types). Please brighten the future; educate a noob.
FFCs
Try searching for FFC Extender with that little button at the top right side of your screen. There are some threads with very good photos and very cheap sources with a full explanation of exactly what you need.
Regarding counting: Are you sure you are counting traces and not spaces between traces? Look at under side of the free end of the cable and count the little gold pads.
Try searching for FFC Extender with that little button at the top right side of your screen. There are some threads with very good photos and very cheap sources with a full explanation of exactly what you need.
Regarding counting: Are you sure you are counting traces and not spaces between traces? Look at under side of the free end of the cable and count the little gold pads.
Spaces vs. Traces.
Duley noted about that search thing, however, I couldn't find anybody else with similar problems finding out what type of FFC they need (number of connectors), and instead could only find you telling people to search harder for it. Nobody wants attitude instead of help. Not to get too critical, but this is a forum, not a library where old cranky ladies yell at you for being too noisy when you're just trying to find a book when they in fact should be helping you find it. A little off the point though.
Anyways, I'm pretty sure I was counting the traces, which look to be silver on mine. The spaces between them are more brown than gold, and don't look metallic and not conductors.
I'll try to get a better pic, but right now my camera doesn't seem to enjoy focusing for whatever reason.
Duley noted about that search thing, however, I couldn't find anybody else with similar problems finding out what type of FFC they need (number of connectors), and instead could only find you telling people to search harder for it. Nobody wants attitude instead of help. Not to get too critical, but this is a forum, not a library where old cranky ladies yell at you for being too noisy when you're just trying to find a book when they in fact should be helping you find it. A little off the point though.
Anyways, I'm pretty sure I was counting the traces, which look to be silver on mine. The spaces between them are more brown than gold, and don't look metallic and not conductors.
I'll try to get a better pic, but right now my camera doesn't seem to enjoy focusing for whatever reason.
Molex and ZIF fun
I checked out the Mouser catalog, and I'm thinking I need:
538-52559-1890 - 18 pin ZIF connector, or
538-52559-1692 - 16 pin ZIF connector, because I'm having troubles having counting. I thought by the time I made it into calculus that wouldn't be a problem anymore.
And of course, a 6" FFC, 18 or 16 pin, depending on how many connectors mine has, which brings me to the question, are there spaces or connectors on the outside edges of an FFC?
I checked out the Mouser catalog, and I'm thinking I need:
538-52559-1890 - 18 pin ZIF connector, or
538-52559-1692 - 16 pin ZIF connector, because I'm having troubles having counting. I thought by the time I made it into calculus that wouldn't be a problem anymore.
And of course, a 6" FFC, 18 or 16 pin, depending on how many connectors mine has, which brings me to the question, are there spaces or connectors on the outside edges of an FFC?
FFC info
The edges have a half-space. The traces are opaque, the spaces are translucent if you put a light behind the cable. You will have an even number of traces, and that number + 1 spaces. On one side of the FFC traces will end in an exposed metallic pad, but if the FFC is very transparent then it may be difficult to see where the plastic covering ends and the bare metal begins. Try using reflected light.
Figure out a way to get a better photo or use a scanner. Then you can blow it up for counting. Or count under a magnifier with a pin or exacto knife point to keep track.
Get a mouser vertical SMT ZIF connector (figure C) and a flat cable jumper (figure D). Put your existing FFC together with the new FFC, with the contacts facing each other. Then slip both FFCs into the connector and push the lock part into the connector. You need to get them aligned perfectly for this to work.
Or you can buy two of the connectors and solder the contacts together to make a true female-to-female connector. (Much harder)
The edges have a half-space. The traces are opaque, the spaces are translucent if you put a light behind the cable. You will have an even number of traces, and that number + 1 spaces. On one side of the FFC traces will end in an exposed metallic pad, but if the FFC is very transparent then it may be difficult to see where the plastic covering ends and the bare metal begins. Try using reflected light.
Figure out a way to get a better photo or use a scanner. Then you can blow it up for counting. Or count under a magnifier with a pin or exacto knife point to keep track.
Get a mouser vertical SMT ZIF connector (figure C) and a flat cable jumper (figure D). Put your existing FFC together with the new FFC, with the contacts facing each other. Then slip both FFCs into the connector and push the lock part into the connector. You need to get them aligned perfectly for this to work.
Or you can buy two of the connectors and solder the contacts together to make a true female-to-female connector. (Much harder)
Excellent
Thanks alot for the info; I'll give that a try first thing tomorrow, place some orders, and with any luck, have something functioning in not too long.
Thanks alot for the info; I'll give that a try first thing tomorrow, place some orders, and with any luck, have something functioning in not too long.
Ha ha!
Sort of as a conclusion to this thread, and as a bit of a bump, I figured out what's been the deal. It appears my FFC's last connectors on both side are doubly wide, and thus require two pins. So, trick question. If anybody else notices connectors like this; 1 wide counts as two....that's right...two. Thanks again for the help guys.
Sort of as a conclusion to this thread, and as a bit of a bump, I figured out what's been the deal. It appears my FFC's last connectors on both side are doubly wide, and thus require two pins. So, trick question. If anybody else notices connectors like this; 1 wide counts as two....that's right...two. Thanks again for the help guys.
thanks for the update
Thanks for the information! It's very useful when builders post their solutions, instead of leaving everybody in the dark.
Making two sets of traces double makes perfect sense: Those are probably power and ground traces. They got 2.5 times the conductor cross section (for free!) by filling in the space between two standard traces, and it still fits a standard socket.
Your extension will only have 2.0 times the cross section, but it should still work fine.
Thanks for the information! It's very useful when builders post their solutions, instead of leaving everybody in the dark.
Making two sets of traces double makes perfect sense: Those are probably power and ground traces. They got 2.5 times the conductor cross section (for free!) by filling in the space between two standard traces, and it still fits a standard socket.
Your extension will only have 2.0 times the cross section, but it should still work fine.
fcc extender prolite 3e 385
Guy Grotke were you able resolve your fcc extender situation? Like you I also have a prolite 3e 385 and is trying to find an extension.
Guy Grotke were you able resolve your fcc extender situation? Like you I also have a prolite 3e 385 and is trying to find an extension.
E-385 FFC
I was able to get the correct FFC extensions parts, however, while trying to hook them, I had the whole setup on top of an overhead projector to test what was coming out, and I had the LCD panel cooled by fans, but I didn't think through the fact that the circuitry was sitting right on top of an increasingly hot 350W bulb. I'm not positive this was the cause of the LCD not working anymore, but I could find anything else that could lead to it not working at all. As I'm writing this actually, I just won an Nview Z1110 projection panel on eBay for a reasonable $41. Anyways, about the FFC connectors, Mouser unfortunately doensn't carry the 20pin vertical SMT connectors anymore, so I simply went to digi-key for all of my FFC needs. Considering I can't really use mine anymore, and digi-key charges a hefty $5 handling, and an additional $5-10 shipping, on top of already high prices for such small parts, I could send you mine if you just give me a few bucks, and then shipping and handling. I won't be too sad to part with them knowing that they'll be in good hands of a fellow DIYer. Although, pay attention to other people's mistakes (like mine), anb be extremely cautious in all steps of dismantling, and re-outfitting your LCD. And above all, good luck.
I was able to get the correct FFC extensions parts, however, while trying to hook them, I had the whole setup on top of an overhead projector to test what was coming out, and I had the LCD panel cooled by fans, but I didn't think through the fact that the circuitry was sitting right on top of an increasingly hot 350W bulb. I'm not positive this was the cause of the LCD not working anymore, but I could find anything else that could lead to it not working at all. As I'm writing this actually, I just won an Nview Z1110 projection panel on eBay for a reasonable $41. Anyways, about the FFC connectors, Mouser unfortunately doensn't carry the 20pin vertical SMT connectors anymore, so I simply went to digi-key for all of my FFC needs. Considering I can't really use mine anymore, and digi-key charges a hefty $5 handling, and an additional $5-10 shipping, on top of already high prices for such small parts, I could send you mine if you just give me a few bucks, and then shipping and handling. I won't be too sad to part with them knowing that they'll be in good hands of a fellow DIYer. Although, pay attention to other people's mistakes (like mine), anb be extremely cautious in all steps of dismantling, and re-outfitting your LCD. And above all, good luck.
oops!
givu: Actually, it was squimby who had the ProLite e385. At least he had it for a brief while.
givu: Actually, it was squimby who had the ProLite e385. At least he had it for a brief while.
20 pin FFC
Uhm...$10 sound good? I paid about $25 for them with shipping and handling from digikey, so I'm not exactly looking for a massive profit here. If you're going to buy them though, it's probably best that you make SURE you need a 20 pin FFC setup. I know you're using an e-385, but it's probably best if you take a flashlight, needle, and magnifying glass to it anyways, and count and make sure. If it is in fact what you need, email me - you seem to already have my email address.
Uhm...$10 sound good? I paid about $25 for them with shipping and handling from digikey, so I'm not exactly looking for a massive profit here. If you're going to buy them though, it's probably best that you make SURE you need a 20 pin FFC setup. I know you're using an e-385, but it's probably best if you take a flashlight, needle, and magnifying glass to it anyways, and count and make sure. If it is in fact what you need, email me - you seem to already have my email address.
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