Hi folks.
I have a Marantz 6010 receiver that resently has developed a 50Hz hum in my sub.
I use a bass amp as external sub amp and this is where the hum is heard.
There is nothing in the main speakers.
The hum is present with gain and main volume on amp is turned all the way down.
The hum level is not affected by the volume controls on either receiver or bass amp.
It is present when mute button on amp is activated (shots the input)
Its present when receiver is turned off and when its disconnectet from wall power.
The hum disappear only if I disconnect the interconnect cable from the receiver.
I tried flipping the power plugs on both devices.
Replacing interconnect cable.
Using another amp as sub amp - no hum!
What is going on?
I have a Marantz 6010 receiver that resently has developed a 50Hz hum in my sub.
I use a bass amp as external sub amp and this is where the hum is heard.
There is nothing in the main speakers.
The hum is present with gain and main volume on amp is turned all the way down.
The hum level is not affected by the volume controls on either receiver or bass amp.
It is present when mute button on amp is activated (shots the input)
Its present when receiver is turned off and when its disconnectet from wall power.
The hum disappear only if I disconnect the interconnect cable from the receiver.
I tried flipping the power plugs on both devices.
Replacing interconnect cable.
Using another amp as sub amp - no hum!
What is going on?
Is the subwoofer amplifier grounded?
Is there any cable TV set top box connected to the receiver (even across the TV)?
Sajti
Is there any cable TV set top box connected to the receiver (even across the TV)?
Sajti
Must be a fault in the Marantz receiver, have it checked out.
Just make sure it's not a bad audio cable first.
Just make sure it's not a bad audio cable first.
Hi Sajti.
Nothing is attached to the tv nor receiver. No tv box, no Bluray.
No nothing is grounded. For some reason ground connection in the wall socket isnt mandatory in Denmark.
But it only started a week ago. I have run a year without any problems.
I have no new electric devices in the house.
What puzzles me is that the hum defies the mute switch, the gain control and the master control. And isnt affected by the volume controls on the bass amp.
Hi rayma, thx for chiming in.
If the fault is in the receiver, wouldnt the second amp have hum too?
BTW its a PLX3402.
I tried another interconnect. Same issue.
Ground connection in Denmark isn't mandatory ------ I am nearly lost for words , I hope your negative /neutral house wire is earthed at the power station ?
You therefore have a TT system -power company doesn't supply an earth.
IMO( and others ) this is dangerous and what is called for in this system is that the consumer provides a suitable EARTHING spike which is connected to the electrical system . this spike must be about 6 feet deep ( 2 metres ) and not into dry soil and maintained by the customer.
You therefore have a TT system -power company doesn't supply an earth.
IMO( and others ) this is dangerous and what is called for in this system is that the consumer provides a suitable EARTHING spike which is connected to the electrical system . this spike must be about 6 feet deep ( 2 metres ) and not into dry soil and maintained by the customer.
I hear you Duncan2.
In my house I have a spike, but only devices connected to the 3-fase installation (400V) is earthed. Such as cooking zone, oven and washing mashine.
To feed every wall socket with an earth line, I would have to replace the whole wiring network. Some above the ceiling, some under the floor. Including wall sockets.
Very time consuming and VERY expensive.
So thats not gonna happen 🙂
In my house I have a spike, but only devices connected to the 3-fase installation (400V) is earthed. Such as cooking zone, oven and washing mashine.
To feed every wall socket with an earth line, I would have to replace the whole wiring network. Some above the ceiling, some under the floor. Including wall sockets.
Very time consuming and VERY expensive.
So thats not gonna happen 🙂
I think Norway has the same system but that doesn't make it any safer, look at America its now going 3 pin connection wall sockets and their mains supply ( for normal use ) is 115 V AC/120 V AC a lot less liable to death by electrocution if it crosses your heart.
Legislation exists in the UK that death by faulty wiring in a UK household is a criminal offense whether it be by the electric company--the installation engineer or the householder themselves and yes many have been jailed /heavy fines etc .
guide-to-the-wiring-regulations.pdf.compressed.pdf
Legislation exists in the UK that death by faulty wiring in a UK household is a criminal offense whether it be by the electric company--the installation engineer or the householder themselves and yes many have been jailed /heavy fines etc .
guide-to-the-wiring-regulations.pdf.compressed.pdf
I dont know about Norway.
Though ground isnt mandatory in DK, a Residual Current Circuit Breaker is.
So if even a small amount of current is leaking out the system, an automatic breaker will trip. That somewhat makes up for a ground wire.
You are allowed replace a lamp and a wall socket yourself, but you have to hire an electrician to work on the electrical network.
Though ground isnt mandatory in DK, a Residual Current Circuit Breaker is.
So if even a small amount of current is leaking out the system, an automatic breaker will trip. That somewhat makes up for a ground wire.
You are allowed replace a lamp and a wall socket yourself, but you have to hire an electrician to work on the electrical network.
Yeah it would seem so, but the amp is working fine on its own. No hum at all.
But how can the hum signal get through 3 muting devices into the power module? A mute button, gain control and main voulme. And without even getting attenuated.
That beats me.
If the hum cannot travel via the signal path it travels via the power supply rails which are still alive even if the mute/volume is operated .
It can also travel directly if RADIATED -IE- RF transmission.
It can also travel directly if RADIATED -IE- RF transmission.
An RCCB ( as opposed to a RCB) doesn't provide integral over-current protection so doesn't safeguard against overload or short-circuiting ( stopping your house wiring going on fire and burning your house down ) rather it only applies earth leakage protection so you need an ADDITIONAL /external CB (contact breaker ) for overload and short circuit protection .
Sorry going on about this but the public must be kept up to date with a potential life threatening electrical fault condition.
Sorry going on about this but the public must be kept up to date with a potential life threatening electrical fault condition.
Im sorry if I use the wrong technical terms.
I think RCCB is what descibes our HPFI circuit breaker best. A circuit detecting current surge from fase to fase, from fase to zero and from fase to ground. It also detect pulsating DC
It will trip at voltages above 50V and/or currents above 30mA.
We also have fuses against overload and short circuit. I didnt mention as we were talking about ground protection, not overload 🙂
I think RCCB is what descibes our HPFI circuit breaker best. A circuit detecting current surge from fase to fase, from fase to zero and from fase to ground. It also detect pulsating DC
It will trip at voltages above 50V and/or currents above 30mA.
We also have fuses against overload and short circuit. I didnt mention as we were talking about ground protection, not overload 🙂
What is the difference between MCB, MCCB, ELCB, and RCCB
Scroll down to--"Limitations of a RCCB".
Fuses do not blow at the rated current sometimes it takes many times the stated current to blow and it is not instantaneous.
If a small overload keeps on happening ( a heating up of the fuse many times but not blowing it ) that weakens the fuse and then it will blow near its stated value .
Scroll down to--"Limitations of a RCCB".
Fuses do not blow at the rated current sometimes it takes many times the stated current to blow and it is not instantaneous.
If a small overload keeps on happening ( a heating up of the fuse many times but not blowing it ) that weakens the fuse and then it will blow near its stated value .
It seem like our HPFI surge protection is a bit more advanced than both RCCB and RCD.
Its true that a fuse is slow burning. In some cases that is desirable.
DK combination of circuit breaker an fuse cover most cases except if you touch two phases or a phase and neutral. You will get fried.
But back to the amp.
Is there any way I can stop the hum from entering the power rail?
Its true that a fuse is slow burning. In some cases that is desirable.
DK combination of circuit breaker an fuse cover most cases except if you touch two phases or a phase and neutral. You will get fried.
But back to the amp.
Is there any way I can stop the hum from entering the power rail?
With nothing connected you still get hum ----right ?
Well it shouldn't be a ground loop then , I know you said you don't use an earth but can you run a temporary earth to your equipment just to eliminate this possibility ?
Also connect all your equipment in your room to a single mains socket as a trial .
Next it could be radiated interference , a piece of household equipment develops a slight fault or you have RF devices mobile phone /DECT household portable phone/baby alarm/ electric light dimmer and many more devices can cause this but first you have to eliminate it being generated in your equipment.
Well it shouldn't be a ground loop then , I know you said you don't use an earth but can you run a temporary earth to your equipment just to eliminate this possibility ?
Also connect all your equipment in your room to a single mains socket as a trial .
Next it could be radiated interference , a piece of household equipment develops a slight fault or you have RF devices mobile phone /DECT household portable phone/baby alarm/ electric light dimmer and many more devices can cause this but first you have to eliminate it being generated in your equipment.
No, the hum is only present when connected to the receiver. When I disconnect the interconnect cable from the receiver, the hum goes away.
The hum continues when I disconnect the receiver from the wall socket. This is what puzzles me most.
I havent got any new electrical devices recently and I doubt any of my old ones are faulty.
As mentioned, the PLX3402 doesnt have the issue.
The hum continues when I disconnect the receiver from the wall socket. This is what puzzles me most.
I havent got any new electrical devices recently and I doubt any of my old ones are faulty.
As mentioned, the PLX3402 doesnt have the issue.