I have an Eico 666 Tube Tester that I recently calibrated. Test tubes pretty accurately except When I test rectifier tubes (0A3, 5U4, 5Y3, 5AR4, etc), the needle maxes out and the tester makes a buzzing/humming noise. Any possible ideas to what the problem could be?
Just pulled mine off the shelf it does the same thing. So that means one of two things, either it's normal or the roll chart is wrong again. Going to have to find my manual and trace thru the circuitry. Will report back ASAP.
Craig
Craig
I am using the Eico 666 Coletronics Manual (1978). This is supposed to have the correct ratings to test the tubes. If you find anything out, I would greatly appreciate it! Not being able to test rectifier tubes is crucial for me.
I have a Mercury 204 which is supposed to be the same animal and it tests these tubes mentioned without a problem. Could it just be the settings are different?
Hey Burnedfingers,
Could you list the set up for a 5U4 that works on the Mercury?
Thanx in advance,
Craig
Could you list the set up for a 5U4 that works on the Mercury?
Thanx in advance,
Craig
Hi Tom,
Don't worry about the humming noise. My 667 and 666 have always done that with 5U4's. Checking two 5U4GB's on the 666 just now, I get 100-105 for both sides on both tubes. Seems to me that I have had rectifiers which slightly pinned the meter, though. In any case, you might want to check the resistor values associated with the "S" switch. Those are R10,11,12,13,14.
Have always enjoyed using the 666/667. Even though I have a Hickok 752A, I still use the Eico's, too.
Steve L.
Don't worry about the humming noise. My 667 and 666 have always done that with 5U4's. Checking two 5U4GB's on the 666 just now, I get 100-105 for both sides on both tubes. Seems to me that I have had rectifiers which slightly pinned the meter, though. In any case, you might want to check the resistor values associated with the "S" switch. Those are R10,11,12,13,14.
Have always enjoyed using the 666/667. Even though I have a Hickok 752A, I still use the Eico's, too.
Steve L.
Hi Craig,
Not burnedfingers anymore. Tried to get my Burnedfingers name back but someone here decided they wanted my old name. Anyway getting back to the matter at hand. My Mercury lists switch position "C", Meter setting of 45 without tube in the socket, and socket #4 and socket #5. I tested a NOS 5U4 a few minutes ago and received readings of 64 and 65 on the two sections of the tube. I had no audible noises and had no meter banging.
Hope this is of some value.
Not burnedfingers anymore. Tried to get my Burnedfingers name back but someone here decided they wanted my old name. Anyway getting back to the matter at hand. My Mercury lists switch position "C", Meter setting of 45 without tube in the socket, and socket #4 and socket #5. I tested a NOS 5U4 a few minutes ago and received readings of 64 and 65 on the two sections of the tube. I had no audible noises and had no meter banging.
Hope this is of some value.
The Mercury must be different than the 666 as the 666 has a bunch of lever switches and a couple of knobs.
I wondered why you changed your handle, I think burnedfingers is better.
Craig
I wondered why you changed your handle, I think burnedfingers is better.
Craig
Just a Hunch
I have an Eico 666 too and it also buzzes when testing rectifiers (which I would say is normal on this model) but it doesn't peg the meter. Soon after I got my tester there was a problem with the Grid knob which, I believe, is a rheostat. This control is supposed to be set at 0 (zero) when testing rectifiers. Anyway, the old tech who was teaching me stuff at the time replaced it but couldn't find an exact replacement part so he put in a part with a switch which I click into the off position when testing rectifiers. Just a hunch, but you might try to make sure that when yours is set to 0 that it truly is. Perhaps some current is getting through the control and it's affecting the reading.
Or, I could be completely out in left field on this . . .
Charlie
I have an Eico 666 too and it also buzzes when testing rectifiers (which I would say is normal on this model) but it doesn't peg the meter. Soon after I got my tester there was a problem with the Grid knob which, I believe, is a rheostat. This control is supposed to be set at 0 (zero) when testing rectifiers. Anyway, the old tech who was teaching me stuff at the time replaced it but couldn't find an exact replacement part so he put in a part with a switch which I click into the off position when testing rectifiers. Just a hunch, but you might try to make sure that when yours is set to 0 that it truly is. Perhaps some current is getting through the control and it's affecting the reading.
Or, I could be completely out in left field on this . . .
Charlie
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