I need to replace the dust cap on some 8". I've already removed the old cap (paper cap, poly cone, used acetone to remove it), however I'm not sure what glue to use to affix the new dust cap.
I've seen white PVA glue recommended so I tested a bit on the cone and once dry it just peeled off. Will superglue stick to it OK? I can't see why a dust cap glue would need to be flexible, but I could be wrong. I would like to use an adhesive that can be removed again down the track (i.e. using acetone).
I've put some test spots of a few glues on a dead polycone speaker, however would love to hear what others use. I'm not sure I have access to a complete range of locktite products etc.
I've seen white PVA glue recommended so I tested a bit on the cone and once dry it just peeled off. Will superglue stick to it OK? I can't see why a dust cap glue would need to be flexible, but I could be wrong. I would like to use an adhesive that can be removed again down the track (i.e. using acetone).
I've put some test spots of a few glues on a dead polycone speaker, however would love to hear what others use. I'm not sure I have access to a complete range of locktite products etc.
I got some "white" glue with my dustcaps & surrounds.
It is not PVA. It seems to be "rubbery" when set.
Maybe some kind of "rubber solution"?
It is not PVA. It seems to be "rubbery" when set.
Maybe some kind of "rubber solution"?
Speaker repair glue
As did Andrew, I received EVA adhesive with parts bought from both Queensland Speaker Repairs and SpeakerBits (Melbourne). However PVA will/should still work. SuperGlue probably won't work unless its the Gel type.
Roj.
As did Andrew, I received EVA adhesive with parts bought from both Queensland Speaker Repairs and SpeakerBits (Melbourne). However PVA will/should still work. SuperGlue probably won't work unless its the Gel type.
Roj.
You can use super glue that is designed for polypropylene but it dries hard, if you want to use something that is flexible you can use a water based contact glue, both of these are available from Sellys or you can use a black solvent based contact glue (Dyna grip) or Deja vue glue (used for removable patches on craft work), cheers.
OK thanks I'll check those out. On the test speaker I found:
- Form-a-gasket did not work at all (I didn't expect it to, but had it lying around)
- Superglue (standard/cheap stuff) stuck on very well but is rock hard
- Araldite (the common 2-tube stuff) also stuck on very well and has some flex to it, however I'm led to believe that there's no easy way of removing this stuff down the track
- Form-a-gasket did not work at all (I didn't expect it to, but had it lying around)
- Superglue (standard/cheap stuff) stuck on very well but is rock hard
- Araldite (the common 2-tube stuff) also stuck on very well and has some flex to it, however I'm led to believe that there's no easy way of removing this stuff down the track
araldite (epoxy) and superglue may be OK for hard cones and domes, metal and ceramic.
All the soft domes/cones will need a flexible glue.
PVA is not nearly flexible enough until it gets very warm. But the joint could have cracked before that temperature is reached.
You don't want a rattling dome/cone due to a partially detached joint.
Copydex (a type of rubber solution in the UK) is too slow drying and not enough "tack".
All the soft domes/cones will need a flexible glue.
PVA is not nearly flexible enough until it gets very warm. But the joint could have cracked before that temperature is reached.
You don't want a rattling dome/cone due to a partially detached joint.
Copydex (a type of rubber solution in the UK) is too slow drying and not enough "tack".
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