Just got rid of my home made 8" subwoofer and bought a low cost 12" active subwoofer. So far so good....however
I have it hooked up via spliced speaker cables in parallel to my power amp output that go into the high level input connectors on the subwoofer amp.
In trying to adjust it to a level that blends into my system I'm finding that I have to have the low level cutoff right at the bottom lowest frequency and the total output level turned right down to near zero.
This causes a problem because the pot adjusters are the click type, not continuously smooth, so when I'm almost at the right spot I'm finding one click is too quiet and one click up is too loud.
What I need to do is rescale a little so I'm nearer the mid point and have more adjustment control.
I used a voltmeter on the input resistance on the high level input and its around 650 ohms.
I opened up the subwoofer amp and the level adjuster pot is a 50k unit.
I'm stumped at an easy way to re-scale this thing so the level has more adjustability.....is there an easy way?
I have it hooked up via spliced speaker cables in parallel to my power amp output that go into the high level input connectors on the subwoofer amp.
In trying to adjust it to a level that blends into my system I'm finding that I have to have the low level cutoff right at the bottom lowest frequency and the total output level turned right down to near zero.
This causes a problem because the pot adjusters are the click type, not continuously smooth, so when I'm almost at the right spot I'm finding one click is too quiet and one click up is too loud.
What I need to do is rescale a little so I'm nearer the mid point and have more adjustment control.
I used a voltmeter on the input resistance on the high level input and its around 650 ohms.
I opened up the subwoofer amp and the level adjuster pot is a 50k unit.
I'm stumped at an easy way to re-scale this thing so the level has more adjustability.....is there an easy way?
Hard to give a better suggestion without looking at the schematic but a resistor between the two terminals of the potentiometer that get shorted when the volume is turned to zero will do the trick. Start with a 10k resistor and see. Change as needed.
You don't supply the make and model of your subwoofer but you seem to have connected it the most problematic way possible. Before taking it to bits and invalidating your warranty, did you read the manual and the specifications? The splice halved your input and resistance. Many high-level sub inputs are not a direct pass-through. e.g. from my sub manual.
Are you sure the sub doesn't expect a line level signal rather than a copy of the full speaker signal?
That's a difference of between 20 and 30 times right there.
Jan
That's a difference of between 20 and 30 times right there.
Jan
Hi all my subwoofer is an MTX unit SW2. I bought it used.
It seems to be better now, I've been working on my main 2 way speakers rebuilding the crossovers and port and the subwoofer seems to be integrating much better now. I am not passing the speaker cables through the sub, I have dual speaker cables coming out my power amp with one set dedicated to the sub. It's how I had my last subwoofer hooked up.
It seems to be better now, I've been working on my main 2 way speakers rebuilding the crossovers and port and the subwoofer seems to be integrating much better now. I am not passing the speaker cables through the sub, I have dual speaker cables coming out my power amp with one set dedicated to the sub. It's how I had my last subwoofer hooked up.
I have an amp in the spare bedroom that has no line out for a subwoofer. So, I used the headphone jack. I had to make up a cable, but it works correctly. Connecting to speaker out is just so 'animal'!