First off... I really have no clue how to design my own subwoofer, so what I want to build may not make any sense. I won't be offended if you tell me it doesn't make sense, but I would appreciate a shove in the right direction.
I want to build 2 subwoofers that will act as the woofer/subwoofer for some full-range monitors. I want the subwoofers to act as stands for the monitors so it almost looks like one speaker, even though they would be 2 separate enclosures.
I'm thinking of using two smaller drivers instead of one larger one - For aesthetic reasons (I know, shouldn't matter, but it does) I want the monitor and sub to be the same widths. I would like the frequency response to go from below 40hz to 120hz.
Do you think I could use two 6" or 8" forward facing drivers in a tall thin enclosure with an off-the-shelf subwoofer amp to do this? Any recommended components? Any recommended designs? I haven't found any with dual drivers.
I want to build 2 subwoofers that will act as the woofer/subwoofer for some full-range monitors. I want the subwoofers to act as stands for the monitors so it almost looks like one speaker, even though they would be 2 separate enclosures.
I'm thinking of using two smaller drivers instead of one larger one - For aesthetic reasons (I know, shouldn't matter, but it does) I want the monitor and sub to be the same widths. I would like the frequency response to go from below 40hz to 120hz.
Do you think I could use two 6" or 8" forward facing drivers in a tall thin enclosure with an off-the-shelf subwoofer amp to do this? Any recommended components? Any recommended designs? I haven't found any with dual drivers.
You can put them in two separate stacked enclosures. Any particular reason you want to do that?
I would use 8" though if you want to get below 40Hz. What kind of power handling were you looking for? You want one amp to run both?
I would use 8" though if you want to get below 40Hz. What kind of power handling were you looking for? You want one amp to run both?
I don't think I would want to have 2 enclosures stacked... that would make 3 stacked including the monitor. It might be a little unstable.
Each sub would have its own amp. I would have one amp for both drivers. I figured I could run two 16ohm drivers in parallel for a 8ohm load, or two 4 ohm drivers in series for a 8 ohm load - something like that. I've read a little about dual voice coil drivers that give you flexibility for the impedence, but again I know nothing about desiging subs, so I'm making this stuff up.
Each sub would have its own amp. I would have one amp for both drivers. I figured I could run two 16ohm drivers in parallel for a 8ohm load, or two 4 ohm drivers in series for a 8 ohm load - something like that. I've read a little about dual voice coil drivers that give you flexibility for the impedence, but again I know nothing about desiging subs, so I'm making this stuff up.
I meant the monitor stacked on the sub, not the two subs stacked. But now I think I'm confused. Did you want one pair of drivers or two pairs of drivers? I was thinking you wanted one sub with one driver per side.
What's your budget and how much power did you want to push to them?
What's your budget and how much power did you want to push to them?
If you want each stand to match the width of the monitors and use a decent sized driver, you can put the sub driver on the side of the stand, rather than the front.
Rob.
Rob.
You know what they say...
A picture's worth 1,000 words. The top box is the monitor, the bottom box is the subwoofer. I want to make two of these. Each sub would have its own amp. I'm think having the drivers face forward would be better since I want the bass to extend up to 120hz or so.
What do you think?
A picture's worth 1,000 words. The top box is the monitor, the bottom box is the subwoofer. I want to make two of these. Each sub would have its own amp. I'm think having the drivers face forward would be better since I want the bass to extend up to 120hz or so.
What do you think?
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I'd go for 8's over 6's or 6.5's. It's better to have too much and turn it down, than not have enough and be unable to turn it up.
That being said, I 2nd the idea of having a side firing woofer. I feel it helps clean up the face of your enclosure. It doesn't look so cluttered.
That being said, I 2nd the idea of having a side firing woofer. I feel it helps clean up the face of your enclosure. It doesn't look so cluttered.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Re: You know what they say...
At that frequency, it won't make any difference. Playing 120hz test tones and some a/b testing with left/right speakers, you might be to tell which side of the room it's coming from, but simply having the driver rotated 90° isn't going to make any noticeable difference in real world use.
bluegti said:
At that frequency, it won't make any difference. Playing 120hz test tones and some a/b testing with left/right speakers, you might be to tell which side of the room it's coming from, but simply having the driver rotated 90° isn't going to make any noticeable difference in real world use.
You might also consider the TB W740C
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-854&CFID=88517&CFTOKEN=95030525
The specs are a little more honestly presented. ie the SPL. There's very little difference between them yet the Dayton claims much higher because it has that 100 Hz peak. You be the judge.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-854&CFID=88517&CFTOKEN=95030525
The specs are a little more honestly presented. ie the SPL. There's very little difference between them yet the Dayton claims much higher because it has that 100 Hz peak. You be the judge.
Do you know Cal, when I jumped on partsexpress I was going to search for TB drivers to link to, but saw the Dayton and thought 'that'll do'
Rob.
Rob.
With an 8 inch driver, it's hard to find one that has the displacement the you would need for a true sub. Your target low FR of 40hz is not as low as most sub builders bemand. If this limit was chosen only because of the driver width, 8in., the you could mount the woofers on the side of the enclosure, the speaker's widest dimension. Some commercial speakers do this. Like you they want the lower, woofer enclosure, you want the face dimension to match that of the top enclosure, which houses the mids and tweeters. With proper bracing, 2 10" woofer would fit.
I'm not exactly sure what is my budget. I have a REL Strata III that I will be selling to fund the project. They are going for around $1,000 these days.
As far as a choosing 40hz as the lower frequency goes... I was trying to be realistic about what I could get from a smaller driver. Although, now I'm considering a side mounted drivers. I have furniture between the speakers, so I'm a little concerned about side-firing woofers. Should I be?
I want the sub enclosure to be around 24" tall the width somewhere between 7 and 9 inches and the depth around 13". Again, these numbers are based upon aesthetics. Maybe going with a single 10" or 12" would be better.
Thanks for the input... amp recommendations are appreciated.
As far as a choosing 40hz as the lower frequency goes... I was trying to be realistic about what I could get from a smaller driver. Although, now I'm considering a side mounted drivers. I have furniture between the speakers, so I'm a little concerned about side-firing woofers. Should I be?
I want the sub enclosure to be around 24" tall the width somewhere between 7 and 9 inches and the depth around 13". Again, these numbers are based upon aesthetics. Maybe going with a single 10" or 12" would be better.
Thanks for the input... amp recommendations are appreciated.
Well that's a little over 1 cubic foot and is plenty big enough to get a 10" in there. Having the driver face into the furniture won't be an issue.
This one looks good:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=296-430
This one looks good:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=296-430
Hi,
that aurum in post15 needs a vented cab of about 2.5cub ft and Fb=28Hz.
or
1.2cub ft and F-3=46Hz in a sealed box.
neither will get anywhere near a stratus.
that aurum in post15 needs a vented cab of about 2.5cub ft and Fb=28Hz.
or
1.2cub ft and F-3=46Hz in a sealed box.
neither will get anywhere near a stratus.
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