Driver size query

diyAudio Member
Joined 2007
I recently purchased a couple of well made boxes thinking that I had suitable drivers in the stash based on the sellers description.
I do but only 2 of them and they are old model Tandy drivers more suitable as midrange not as woofers or subwoofers.
Anybody know of a driver that has a cut out of 240mm and an external driver size of 270mm?
I'd like to be able to use these well made boxes if affordable drivers are around. Asking here while I search though sites.
Australia so my options are limited
 
Looks like any of the Dayton 270 series will fit and the SD270A-88 is in the ball park for my budget.
Any feedback on its use as a woofer or sub-woofer?
Boxes are built for two drivers in each box so they'd be wired as dual 16R in parallel each box and each seeing a box of ~35litres
 

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Woodwork has never been my strong point but a new baffle could be easily done. The Dayton linked does seem to model reasonably well in these boxes tho. Which is why I am awaiting on any feedback from folks who've used them before making a purchase decision
 
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Well the Daytons are $149- each, which I suppose is cheap these days.
I will have to sell a quad of the Jaycar 10s tho.
@zman01 the recommended box size for the drivers https://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/dayton-audio-sd270a-88-10-dvc-subwoofer
Is that volume so my WAG is that these were the original drivers in these boxes.
Boxes cost me $50- and fuel but it was a nice day for a drive

You are ok with a sealed cabinet and tuning of F3 @ 52 Hz (with suggested box size as per the link)?

What is F6 and F10 like?
 
I have used the Dayton RSS265HF-4 which I like a lot.
It should physically fit with a 266mm OD, a 235mm cut out and a 248mm mounting bolt circle.
They are about $170 each here in the USA for a quantity of 4.
The physical fit is always a challenge because every manufacturers 10" driver is actually a slightly different size.
The cabinet volume seems close to the recommended value of 0.9 cuft for a sealed box with an F3 at 45Hz.
As for the wiring, one option besides the traditional series / parallel voice coils, is to add another set of binding posts so you can wire each driver separately to it's own amp channel.
Best success.
 
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