Those ebay enclosure looks good with 8mm front panel thickness, anyone had the experience that drill a hole on it? I need to add a power switch, all I have is a corded drill, and a step drill bit, can they do the job?
If you have something like a vise, then yes, it's very easy with a handheld power drill. Just make sure to punch the center so that the drill bit doesn't walk, and take care to drill as straight as you can.
Drilling with the workpiece held in your hand can often be very dangerous. Instead, consider stepping on it and drilling through it into some sacrificial wood.
Drilling with the workpiece held in your hand can often be very dangerous. Instead, consider stepping on it and drilling through it into some sacrificial wood.
Its best to find someone with a drill press for that. This is much safer, and much more precise.
That being said, a vice, and step bit will work with aluminum. Even with a friends drill press, I had to drill halfway from one side, and then turn over the piece and drill from the other side to get the same depth hole all the way through. Don't press too hard, metal does not cut as fast as wood.
One final tip, using the step drill, if you "just" go a bit too far, you get a nice curved edge, instead of a sharp edge, and the de-burring step will be completed.
That being said, a vice, and step bit will work with aluminum. Even with a friends drill press, I had to drill halfway from one side, and then turn over the piece and drill from the other side to get the same depth hole all the way through. Don't press too hard, metal does not cut as fast as wood.
One final tip, using the step drill, if you "just" go a bit too far, you get a nice curved edge, instead of a sharp edge, and the de-burring step will be completed.
+1 for the drill press. I've drilled 8-9 mm holes in 10 mm thick aluminum without a hitch. Just start with a small hole (2.5 mm) and work your way up. Watch the cutting speed.
That said, a vice and a hand drill can work in a pinch. Just go slow... Use a piece of aluminum angle to protect the work piece from the jaws of the vice.
~Tom
That said, a vice and a hand drill can work in a pinch. Just go slow... Use a piece of aluminum angle to protect the work piece from the jaws of the vice.
~Tom
I don't think it matters too much how hard you press for aluminum, but if you drill stainless steel, you're going to want to put all your weight on then and then some.
I've ruined several holes before by trying to get an edge radius when finishing the cut. What works better for me is just turning the step bit in the hole by hand. An actual countersinking bit or a deburring tool works just the same too.
What's the maximum panel thickness allowed by the step to step distance in your bit?
8 mm looks like too much.
I'd get a standard drill of the size needed, I can foresee that I will use it again in the future.
Personally I have sheet metal punchers and various sized die sets but before buying them, I had a 10mm standard drill, an 11.25mm one and a 13 mm one which accomodated most of my large hole needs.
Visit your friendly neighbourhood car mechanic or similar, he'll probably have a 13 mm capable (and sometines even 16 mm capable) bench drill ... and the drills too.
Doed your switch have more than 8mm of threaded body for the locknut? Those thick front panels look great but sometimes are too thick for what you want to put on there.
Also, a lot of the aluminum cases on ebay can be found here at better prices:
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Just copy the model # from the ebay listing. I have no affiliation with the site. It appears to be a 3rd party aggregator for private sellers out of china.
Usually you can have these enclosures already drilled.
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+3 for the drill press, low speed, securely clamp work piece with either machinist vise, or pair of f-clamps, and use split point hardened drill bit for the first hole to prevent wandering.
Stepped bits may not do a clean, square edge on material of that thickness, and even in a drill press can easily get away from you, so make sure to set the depth stop first.
Wear eye protection
Stepped bits may not do a clean, square edge on material of that thickness, and even in a drill press can easily get away from you, so make sure to set the depth stop first.
Wear eye protection
and a cutting fluid, especially if you are drilling a large (upward of 6mm or 1/4") hole. The fluid doesn't need to be anything special. Gear oil or motorcycle chain lube makes a good cutting lube ime as long as your cutting speed is relatively low
Thanks guys, great tips.
The problem I saw with those enclosures are either without a front hole or there are 2 for power switch and volume knob. Since this is for power amp only switch is needed.
I don't have enclosure or switch yet, and will check my step drill as JMFahey suggested it might not be able to do the job. I have a set of standard drills up to 1/2 inch, bigger ones are just too expensive (checked in local store >$50-60), that's why I got step drill off ebay for only $10, I'm not a professional.
May change the plan, put switch on back, or get a enclosure with thinner front
Thanks all, appreciate!
The problem I saw with those enclosures are either without a front hole or there are 2 for power switch and volume knob. Since this is for power amp only switch is needed.
I don't have enclosure or switch yet, and will check my step drill as JMFahey suggested it might not be able to do the job. I have a set of standard drills up to 1/2 inch, bigger ones are just too expensive (checked in local store >$50-60), that's why I got step drill off ebay for only $10, I'm not a professional.
May change the plan, put switch on back, or get a enclosure with thinner front
Thanks all, appreciate!
Or get the predrilled one and use the extra "volume" hole for something from a small acrylic window with a couple Leds which vary colour depending on power to ..... gasp !!!!! ..... even a ...... volume control 😉
They don't hurt, in fact many power amps have them, and of course you can just set it to 10 and forget it.
Or cover the hole with something.
They don't hurt, in fact many power amps have them, and of course you can just set it to 10 and forget it.
Or cover the hole with something.
I decided it might be much easier to work with this one
SL1238A 12" DIY Full Aluminum Audio Chassis Audio Amplifier Chassis Enclosure | eBay
and BTW, the amp I have is this
AMS1000-2600
Ive drilled everything with corded drill even if I have drill press. Its just alot faster.
If you have that 90° in your hand once It'll never leave. Endless precision 🙂
Use center punch first and go with small drill. the smaller the better but for 8mm id go for 1,5 or 2mm bit or it will start to grab too much material at once and all by itself.
Ive set my drill press to 12 000RPM for PCB drilling so to change it back for 2-3k i have to put the other motor and change both pulleys.
If you have that 90° in your hand once It'll never leave. Endless precision 🙂
Use center punch first and go with small drill. the smaller the better but for 8mm id go for 1,5 or 2mm bit or it will start to grab too much material at once and all by itself.
Ive set my drill press to 12 000RPM for PCB drilling so to change it back for 2-3k i have to put the other motor and change both pulleys.
Oops, I forgot, just checked, found this is a perfect fit size wise, and the 3mm front panel looks nice too
Galaxy 288 (3mm Front) - Chassis
But the shipping is a bit high, $47 to Canada, anyway will order one
If you're still tempted by the 8mm stuff I pretty much agree with Mikhus.
Start with a 2mm bit. It is important to get this one right so get someone else to eye the drill from the side for straightness unless you practiced a lot.
Then go up in 2mm increments. The larger bits will basically follow the first hole so if you messed that one up a pillar drill (drill press) and careful clamping is the only way to fix it.
The trick is to hold the drill tight and steady but don't push (assuming you drill vertically).
The weight of the drill should provide enough pressure as long as the bit is sharp.
Make sure the aluminium is tightly clamped to an immovable object and wear eye protection.
Start with a 2mm bit. It is important to get this one right so get someone else to eye the drill from the side for straightness unless you practiced a lot.
Then go up in 2mm increments. The larger bits will basically follow the first hole so if you messed that one up a pillar drill (drill press) and careful clamping is the only way to fix it.
The trick is to hold the drill tight and steady but don't push (assuming you drill vertically).
The weight of the drill should provide enough pressure as long as the bit is sharp.
Make sure the aluminium is tightly clamped to an immovable object and wear eye protection.
+1 for the cutting fluid .
methylated spirits or WD40 work great on aluminum , gives a nice smooth hole.
Cheers ,
Rens
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