I'm getting to the point where I want to turn/ mill small items (headshells, bearing supports for example), and considering acquiring a Peatol (Taig) lathe - as I could do both on a small scale in the confines of my (small) shed - thoughts comments, recommendations etc needed to further my analog obsession 😉
Owen
Owen
It's space thats the main problem - I dont have a garage, and will be squeezing this into a 8 *6 shed along with shelving (already present) and sneaking a drill press in... so things will be abit cramped...
I'd also like to avoid CNC, as I'll only be doing one offs, and any manufacturing will be done elsewhere..
Initially its to make CF and /or wooden arms ( the headshell and bearing mounts), but I'd like to play with weighted unipivots and such like too, so the overall part size wont be huge either... unless I get back into Scale modelling, but then I'd make the space for a nice big lathe 😉...
Who knows I may even have a go at a plain bearing (if I've enough scrap for try-outs and the patience of a saint 😉 ) and definitely fancy having a go at doing an idler conversion on a dc belt drive TT...
I also want to turn some nice knobs for the pre-amp that will (shortly) be underway again - its dual mono, and I want to use an O ring to act as the balance control - but that needs groovey knobs, and they're few and far between without a lathe 🙂
So you can see that the projects are simple, and not huge in scale, and I suspect that the Taig (or derivative) would be able to do it...
Shine a light on my reasoning...
Owen
I'd also like to avoid CNC, as I'll only be doing one offs, and any manufacturing will be done elsewhere..
Initially its to make CF and /or wooden arms ( the headshell and bearing mounts), but I'd like to play with weighted unipivots and such like too, so the overall part size wont be huge either... unless I get back into Scale modelling, but then I'd make the space for a nice big lathe 😉...
Who knows I may even have a go at a plain bearing (if I've enough scrap for try-outs and the patience of a saint 😉 ) and definitely fancy having a go at doing an idler conversion on a dc belt drive TT...
I also want to turn some nice knobs for the pre-amp that will (shortly) be underway again - its dual mono, and I want to use an O ring to act as the balance control - but that needs groovey knobs, and they're few and far between without a lathe 🙂
So you can see that the projects are simple, and not huge in scale, and I suspect that the Taig (or derivative) would be able to do it...
Shine a light on my reasoning...
Owen
Well I looked at the Peatol... it doesn't have a carriage feed. so you can't cut threads and all that good stuff.
It looks by the time you buy all the options your at about 300 pounds.
Kick this around. 'bout twice the money but 5 times the machine. Look at all the goodies that come standard.
Just a thought the lack of threading and carriage feed would be a big deal to me.
It looks by the time you buy all the options your at about 300 pounds.
Kick this around. 'bout twice the money but 5 times the machine. Look at all the goodies that come standard.
Just a thought the lack of threading and carriage feed would be a big deal to me.
I second that. This Chinese lathe is marketed by several outfits. Mine was purchased from Grizzly. It doesn't have the "fit 'n finish" of a Taig (like Chinese audio products, consider it a assembled kit), but it is stout, and comes with most the acc. you are likely to need.
I have been using mine well over ten years now.
-Casey
Hi Owen, Poobah
How about a secondhand lathe like a Myford? See what I play with: http://www.blueangelaudio.com.
I also have a little Emco Unimat with all its accessories packed away somewhere. Don't know Taig - is that a later incarnation of the Unimat?
Regards all
bulgin
How about a secondhand lathe like a Myford? See what I play with: http://www.blueangelaudio.com.
I also have a little Emco Unimat with all its accessories packed away somewhere. Don't know Taig - is that a later incarnation of the Unimat?
Regards all
bulgin
Another possibility is to look for a second-hand Hobbymat MD65. http://www.lathes.co.uk/hobbymat/. I have one of these and it's been invaluable over the years. I've used it for exactly the same jobs you propose - making an arm and knobs etc for electronics. It's just about liftable by one person if you're feeling fairly strong. The advantage of buying a second-hand lathe over a new one is that it is likely to come with a full set of accessories (four-jaw chuck, collet chuck, better tool post, etc, etc)
That's a very nice lathe EC8010!!
Being able to use lathes and milling machines of your own in a shed or garage at home is great for a terrific sense of achievement. There's always time for a few at your local but going to do a bit turning on your own lathe could be just as therapeutic.
Recently, there was a post here somewhere about a small tiltable vise. I had a look and a few days later, I came across the identical thing labeled 'Dremel' at Cash Converters, secondhand, full of epoxy spills, no sliding handle and damaged jaws. They wanted +-UKP20 for it and I pointed out all the blemishes and told them it was too much. The store manager came round and said: 'Make me an offer' and I offered UKP1,50.
Well, I got it, came home, cleaned the epoxy off, made a new handle and milled the marks off the jaws in about 1 or two hours.
That's what home machine tools can do for you.
bulgin
Being able to use lathes and milling machines of your own in a shed or garage at home is great for a terrific sense of achievement. There's always time for a few at your local but going to do a bit turning on your own lathe could be just as therapeutic.
Recently, there was a post here somewhere about a small tiltable vise. I had a look and a few days later, I came across the identical thing labeled 'Dremel' at Cash Converters, secondhand, full of epoxy spills, no sliding handle and damaged jaws. They wanted +-UKP20 for it and I pointed out all the blemishes and told them it was too much. The store manager came round and said: 'Make me an offer' and I offered UKP1,50.
Well, I got it, came home, cleaned the epoxy off, made a new handle and milled the marks off the jaws in about 1 or two hours.
That's what home machine tools can do for you.
bulgin
Hello bulgin, yes, nice, but not as nice as a Myford! You're absolutely right about the therapeutic bit. The total concentration required when using a machine tool is excellent for washing away stress. When I was getting divorced, I found half an hour on the lathe would calm me down considerably. I don't know how people without a lathe survive. It's enabled me to fix all sorts of things around the house, and as you say, the sense of achievement and of beating the system when you fix something like a tumble dryer with "No user serviceable parts inside" is enormous.
Peatol Lathe (Taig)
# Overall working accuracy 0.0005"
# Maximum bearing runout 0.0004"
# Headstock normality to bed 0.0004" max error
# Cross slide normality to bed 0.0004" max error
# Max taper bed dovetail over pins 0.0001"
# All machine dovetails 45 degree
without power fed cross slide and threadcutting capability
Chinese small lathe (+Mill)
Accuracy unknown at worst - extremely good at best (and very expensive to match)...
Poobah - have you some experience of these..?
Thanks
Owen
# Overall working accuracy 0.0005"
# Maximum bearing runout 0.0004"
# Headstock normality to bed 0.0004" max error
# Cross slide normality to bed 0.0004" max error
# Max taper bed dovetail over pins 0.0001"
# All machine dovetails 45 degree
without power fed cross slide and threadcutting capability
Chinese small lathe (+Mill)
Accuracy unknown at worst - extremely good at best (and very expensive to match)...
Poobah - have you some experience of these..?
Thanks
Owen
I only know that the Peatol has no leadscrew... CARRIAGE feed. can't cut threads. Never mind the cross-slide feed... few lathes have that.
All the accuracy specs mean little... you can make damn fine parts on a very loose lathe.
🙂
All the accuracy specs mean little... you can make damn fine parts on a very loose lathe.
🙂
Bingo! 😀
It's called "reading the play".
I made this spinde bearing with my "sloppy" Chinese lathe. I mispoke in the thread about the clearance though, .0005", that was the total oversize of the sleeve bearing, the actual clearance is .00025" (spindle-to-sleeve on any given side).
Knowing your machine is the key...that and patience, inspection tools, patience, shim stock, and patience.
-Casey
Thanks...
The last serious metal work I did was a looong time ago - but now I'm actually looking forward to doing some 🙂
Casey, any more progress to report ?
Owen
The last serious metal work I did was a looong time ago - but now I'm actually looking forward to doing some 🙂
Casey, any more progress to report ?
Owen
Spent 20 yrs in a factory running worn out machines. You can get a feeling for one in a few minutes if you know what you are doing.
Nothing wrong with a worn machine. It means the operator has to be a better machinest.
Nothing wrong with a worn machine. It means the operator has to be a better machinest.
Hi owen,
Sadly, nothing tangible. I live in a semi desert region, and this summer has been hotter than usual. My shop is metal, and hasn’t been below 100deg. inside for months. Since I tend to melt in anything above 80deg., I have been waiting for things to cool down.
This has actually been a good thing. I was starting to get side tracked with grandiose plans, such as a pneumatic suspension. I was led down this path by my tenacious motor noise problem…it turns out it was the motor (duh). I have ordered a new motor, and spent my time designing a new mount…work should start up again in a few weeks.
-Casey
Sadly, nothing tangible. I live in a semi desert region, and this summer has been hotter than usual. My shop is metal, and hasn’t been below 100deg. inside for months. Since I tend to melt in anything above 80deg., I have been waiting for things to cool down.
This has actually been a good thing. I was starting to get side tracked with grandiose plans, such as a pneumatic suspension. I was led down this path by my tenacious motor noise problem…it turns out it was the motor (duh). I have ordered a new motor, and spent my time designing a new mount…work should start up again in a few weeks.
-Casey
valveitude said:
Casey, What motor did you order? Hurst? I read your Corian TT thread and I think you did a fine job with the tools at your disposal. I wanted to mention that I have some experience with Hurst motors since I used them in my own TT projects in the past. I talked with the head engineer at Hurst because I was having so much trouble getting a motor that worked properly.
The shaft ultimately has too much play within the upper bushing and would oscilate uncontrollably at times. This happened with most of their motors I tried. I did finally get one that worked but this was after trying out several. I would avoid Hurst motors and try a DC approach. Good luck with your project.
Hi Vinyl-Addict,
I actually have read somewhere on the forum about your experience with Hurst, which has led to a certain level of concern. Having seen your table project I take what you say seriously.
I still may end up with a DC solution, but have invested so much time on my AC speed controller that I decided to give Hurst one more shot. I don't have the part number handy, but I ordered the smallest 600rpm motor available. This is a "made when ordered" model. I explained to the sales person my application, and my concerns, and was told that the assembly person would pay special attention to the clearance, and minimize the play....we'll see.
Sorry 'bout the hijack owen 😀
I actually have read somewhere on the forum about your experience with Hurst, which has led to a certain level of concern. Having seen your table project I take what you say seriously.
I still may end up with a DC solution, but have invested so much time on my AC speed controller that I decided to give Hurst one more shot. I don't have the part number handy, but I ordered the smallest 600rpm motor available. This is a "made when ordered" model. I explained to the sales person my application, and my concerns, and was told that the assembly person would pay special attention to the clearance, and minimize the play....we'll see.
Sorry 'bout the hijack owen 😀
This is no hijack, its why I want/need the tooling in the first place 😉
We see a lot of creations, but little in the way of the journey.
I want to experience that journey - and all that it involves 🙂
Owen
We see a lot of creations, but little in the way of the journey.
I want to experience that journey - and all that it involves 🙂
Owen
Lathe/Milling machine
Hi Owen
I am new to this forum. I just went out & bought a couple of machines for the same purpose as u! After much research, I settled on the Axminster Micro-lathe & Micro-millAxminster . They are alot cheaper than other brands that are in fact the same machine (eg Warco/Clarke)
This is a learning curve as I know nothing about these machines, but within a few hours, i was engineering bits for my arm getting materials off ebay. Here u can see some of my efforts:
Tonearm
I think one of the things u have to bear in mind is the weight of these machines. I couldnt lift the Micromill, & had to separate the column & table to manage! Needed a strong shelf too! These machines work really well for my purposes.
Please feel free to email me for more info.
Cheers
Vic
Hi Owen
I am new to this forum. I just went out & bought a couple of machines for the same purpose as u! After much research, I settled on the Axminster Micro-lathe & Micro-millAxminster . They are alot cheaper than other brands that are in fact the same machine (eg Warco/Clarke)
This is a learning curve as I know nothing about these machines, but within a few hours, i was engineering bits for my arm getting materials off ebay. Here u can see some of my efforts:
Tonearm
I think one of the things u have to bear in mind is the weight of these machines. I couldnt lift the Micromill, & had to separate the column & table to manage! Needed a strong shelf too! These machines work really well for my purposes.
Please feel free to email me for more info.
Cheers
Vic
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