Just taken delivery of the above.
TA2024, 15v wallwart supply with on board KA78T12 regulator. Socketed JRC 5532D ion the input, soldered LM358 on the output. Rubycon C's, Alps pot, B140 diodes. Nice looking board with lots of sm.
It has now been running for about an hour, inserted between a DAC1 and Lowther EX3 drive units. The Lowthers are normally driven by the DAC1 HPA-2 headphone amplifiers.
Initial impressions, sounds a little ragged, less extended at both top & bottom ends than the HPA-2s. Don't like the flickering 'activity' led. However presently just listening to BBC Radio 3 DAB (MP2) - Late Junction, World music, highly recommended.
I also recently obtained a Charlize which has yet to be assembled. I should be able to do a Charlize/Dr Amp/HPA-2 comparison once some serious burning-in time has elapsed.
The DR Amp 5532 is socketed to allow for substitution - anyone have any opinion as to suitable alternatives?
And why do I get logged out before I can complete a post?
TA2024, 15v wallwart supply with on board KA78T12 regulator. Socketed JRC 5532D ion the input, soldered LM358 on the output. Rubycon C's, Alps pot, B140 diodes. Nice looking board with lots of sm.
It has now been running for about an hour, inserted between a DAC1 and Lowther EX3 drive units. The Lowthers are normally driven by the DAC1 HPA-2 headphone amplifiers.
Initial impressions, sounds a little ragged, less extended at both top & bottom ends than the HPA-2s. Don't like the flickering 'activity' led. However presently just listening to BBC Radio 3 DAB (MP2) - Late Junction, World music, highly recommended.
I also recently obtained a Charlize which has yet to be assembled. I should be able to do a Charlize/Dr Amp/HPA-2 comparison once some serious burning-in time has elapsed.
The DR Amp 5532 is socketed to allow for substitution - anyone have any opinion as to suitable alternatives?
And why do I get logged out before I can complete a post?
Ah well,so much for the Charlize. tried it with smps, got hf noise, so i used the 15v unregulated supply from the Dr Amp. Should have been OK, as the 2020 is rated to 16v, but in retrospect perhaps not a good idea. Ran OK until I knocked the amp over, then got a wisp of smoke, and now no output but massive heat from the chip regardless of which psu is used.
These beasts are not exactly easy to fix, so it's bye bye Charlize. It did sound very promising during it's brief life tho, so I may get another one.
Meanwhile the DR Amp is beginning to sound promising. Good definition and sound stage opening up nicely.
These beasts are not exactly easy to fix, so it's bye bye Charlize. It did sound very promising during it's brief life tho, so I may get another one.
Meanwhile the DR Amp is beginning to sound promising. Good definition and sound stage opening up nicely.
If you're feeling adventurous you should try to repair the Charlize. Isn't that what DIY is all about, fixing our SNAFUs?
I've seen in one of the threads that there is a supplier of the Tripath chips somewhere in the UK, or you could try Jan at 41hz.com. He may be convinced to sell you a 2020. His Amp6 kit uses the same chip.
Hate to see the Charlize die in such a manner
I've seen in one of the threads that there is a supplier of the Tripath chips somewhere in the UK, or you could try Jan at 41hz.com. He may be convinced to sell you a 2020. His Amp6 kit uses the same chip.
Hate to see the Charlize die in such a manner
I am considering a autocostruire kit, pulling the 2020 frm the Charlize board & building the kit with that to see if the chip is at fault here.
How much does an Amp6 cost?
How much does an Amp6 cost?
I did take a cursory look at the Charlize to see if it could be repaired - stuck a dvm across the outputs, one is o/s, t'other shorted, so I gave up.
I have ordered an Amp 6. May cannibalise the Charlize board for C's & coils. Desoldering from that board is a bit of a bugger tho.
I have ordered an Amp 6. May cannibalise the Charlize board for C's & coils. Desoldering from that board is a bit of a bugger tho.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.